West Face of the Exum Ridge

Taken from Ortenburger and Jackson's "Climber's Guide to the Teton Range Third Edition"- Buy it!!!

Much of what is seen of the Grand Teton from the Lower Saddle is the west face of the Exum Ridge, rising above the (right-hand) gully that leads to the Upper Saddle. while much of this face is sheer, it is broken in a few places. This route ascends the main vertical break in the upper portion of the wall, a very large, open corner system. From the Lower Saddle proceed as [following the Exum Ridge route], crossing the ridge of the Needle into the gully immediately west of Exum Ridge. Instead of continuing on out to Wall Street, scramble north up the gully some 300 feet until directly below the dihedral in the face above. Begin by scrambling up and right for 40-50 ft to the start of the main corner. Climb a short, wide 5.8 crack (the first few moves need big gear to be properly protected, otherwise its a spicy couple moves to a large foot ledge) and then run the rope out to a belay on a ledge. The second pitch is 4th class. Proceed up the main dihedral for a rope length (5.6/7) and belay at the base of the upper chimney. The 4th pitch ascends a right-facing corner (5.7). Face climbing (5.7) out and left on the next lead provides an escape from the main dihedral.

Zigzag steeply up to the left (north) from this point and gain considerable altitude (not exactly sure about this piece of beta, the altitude "gain" isn't too considerable). At one point it is possible to climb straight upward and join the exum ridge [via a chossy chimney feature], but because this face lies below the crest of the ridge one must continue angling left (north) under a sheer wall in order to climb the entire face. An off-size flake (5.7) leads up and left to a large ledge that cuts back to the right (south) across the wall. Instead, move the belay north and climb a chimney with a chockstone in it (5.7) that once again leads to a ledge. Traverse right about 60 feet on this ledge to a finger crack leading directly up the wall above. Climb 40 feet up to the end of this crack (5.8), then make a delicate and exposed 30-foot traverse to the right (south) to join the Exum Ridge route at the middle of the V-pitch. To locate this point from below: the rock that appears to be the highest point on the Grand, when seen from the Lower Saddle, is actually the top of this V pitch, some 100 feet above the point aforementioned. Time: 10.25 hours from Garnet Canyon.

Head towards Wall Street but take the gully right at the base of Wall Street. The route starts near an obvious boulder feature on the west face and a 5.9 offwidth variation crack can be seen arching up and left on the face down low. Standard descent via Owen Spalding and normal rappels.

We took a single rack of BD C4's 0.4-"4 along with a standard set of stoppers. There are many old pitons along the route but seem good enough to only look at. All natural anchors. Bring some medium slings as there are some great horns/boulders on the ledges.