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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description [Suggest Change]

This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock. It's asthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces. Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines. It's most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women.

Other popular pastimes include making the tyrolean traverse from the main buttress to the monkey's mouth. This airy span is also often used for a spectacular high line walk.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

To approach you can take the hiking trail in either direction once you cross the bridge. Heading north provides a steeper but shorter approach. The seldom taken southward, scenic approach is much further but has less elevation gain and takes you all the way around the formation. Many approach by hiking past the main dihedrals, doing the scramble over asterik pass, and continuing on climbing trails heading north. Routes are listed clockwise from right side of the west face.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at (s) Monkey Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
 23
West Face (Aid)
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
 3
East Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
 226
Pioneer Route
Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
 4
Northwest Passage (Aid)
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 100
West Face Variation Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
 120
West Face Variation
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Monkey Off My Back
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 75
Monkey Space
Sport 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 12
Rising Expectations
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
Astro Monkey
Trad 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
The North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 9
Spank the Monkey
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
The Backbone
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face (Aid)
 23
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
East Face
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Pioneer Route
 226
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Northwest Passage (Aid)
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
West Face Variation Direct
 100
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
West Face Variation
 120
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Monkey Off My Back
 67
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Monkey Space
 75
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Rising Expectations
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Astro Monkey
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
The North Face
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Spank the Monkey
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
The Backbone
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in (s) Monkey Face »

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Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Anybody know if BASE jumping the Monkey Face is legal in this park? How tall is it exactly as well? Would be great fun on rest days. May 17, 2007
rpc
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
Tallest aspect is the west face (river face) of the formation. I'd estimate that side to be in the low end of 300 foot range. May 18, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
The picnic lunch wall is much taller, but i don't know if its steep enough. Morning glory is a good 400 feet, plus prbably another 200 to the river? MG would definately be steep enough.

I bet the w face of the monkey is more like 400'. The north face route, which starts a full pitch above the ground, is a rope stretching 60m just to the west face cave. probably another 50 feet or more to the summit from there? May 22, 2007
rpc
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
Based on West Face aid line, P1 is probably about 120 feet. P2 all the way to the cave is less than 60 meters - say 190 feet. P3 to summit is (I would agree with you) probably no more than 50 feet. It seemed as though the floor of the west side cave protruded out a bit - I'd worry about clipping it on the way down. But then again, what do I know. May 22, 2007
corvegas
the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
PLW not steep enough? ever been up bubbas in bondage? Aug 13, 2007
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
For what it's worth:

The jumpers I that I was with said it was ~370ft from the exit to the ground. There's a great ledge on the west side of the summit to get a good running jump off of. May 6, 2009
Josh Janes    
I've only ever approached via Misery Ridge.

How do Asterisk Pass and Aggro Gully approaches compare in terms of time and effort? Jul 10, 2016
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
Misery Ridge is likely the fastest for anything from the Backbone left, Asterisk might be the better option for stuff West Face to the right. Aggro is nice because it often has more shade than Misery Ridge and you won't get stuck behind 50 people, but the travelled trail dumps you pretty near the Misery Ridge summit. Jul 13, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
It's possible to rappel from the two bolt anchor on the right side of the floor of the Mouth (just below the beginning of the 'panic point pitch') back to the base of the route with a single 70m. The rope pull is hard, but doable and facilitates rapping with a single. As of last week, it was equipped with two quick links, but could use two more. If I make it back up there, I'll fix it up. Oct 4, 2016
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
Absolutely fantastic pitch. After passing Panic Point and settling into the exposure, you get to battle the crux. A victory here will float you to the top. Do this variation instead of the Pioneer finish and give the Misery Ridge hikers what they came to see. Oct 17, 2017

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