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The Black Wall

Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt Blue Sky (formerly…
Warning Access Issue: 2024 - road closure DetailsDrop down

Description

The Black Wall is the premier multi-pitch alpine rock climbing venue at Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans). This is where the long, committing routes are. The reason is simple, situated at a very high altitude, between 12,000 and 13,000', the easiest way to reach the routes is to rappel in. The Black Wall offers a fine selection of multi-pitch trad routes that face east. The easiest route would appear to weigh-in at 5.10. Good Evans is the classic line on the Black Wall. Check out the Road Warrior for some sick off-width action. From the parking area at the lake, head north. Most of the routes are accessed by hiking up and over the big hill to the north of the lake. Just past the col on the other side of the hill, start looking for rappel anchors on the top of the cliff. These may be hard to find, but they are there. They are at the top of a route named the Rappel Route. What else? You will probably want to take 2 200' ropes for the rappels. Mt. Evans can throw some gnarly weather your way, no matter what season it is. Be prepared to be committed on the routes on the Black Wall. Beta seems hard to find for this wall. Use Front Range Crags by Peter Hubbel - out of print unfortunately - as a reference. Additional topo information may be available on the Internet.Definitely go check out this awesome wall.

Getting There

From the parking lot at the lake, head north. Hike up and over the hill in front of you. At the col on the other side of the hill, start looking for anchors on the top of the cliff. Peter Hubbel suggests that you can descend from the col at the lake and walk beneath the cliffs to access climbs.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Mer Dascht (We Thirst)
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Roofer Madness
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Escape Route
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 135
Cary Granite
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Harry Caray
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Phil-a-Guster
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 180
Good Evans
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
Old Rappel Route
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 57
Road Warrior
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 2
Black Mamba
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Cannonball Corner
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C0 R
 6
Undertow
Trad, Aid, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 20
Undertow (free)
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 3
The Rusty Dagger
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
 3
Parallel Universe
Trad, Aid, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
 1
Unnamed Bolted Face
Trad, Sport, Aid, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Espresso
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Coffee Achievers
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 9
High Variance
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 3
Seven Sins (Sinners on Sunday to…
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 41
Sinners On Sunday
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
The Emerald Highway
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 80
Rainbow Highway
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 1
The Ant Farm
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mer Dascht (We Thirst)
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Roofer Madness
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Escape Route
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Cary Granite
 135
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Harry Caray
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Phil-a-Guster
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Good Evans
 180
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Old Rappel Route
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Road Warrior
 57
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Black Mamba
 2
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Cannonball Corner
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Undertow
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C0 R Trad, Aid, Alpine 5 pitches
Undertow (free)
 20
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Rusty Dagger
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Parallel Universe
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R Trad, Aid, Alpine 6 pitches
Unnamed Bolted Face
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1- Trad, Sport, Aid, Alpine
Espresso
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Coffee Achievers
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
High Variance
 9
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Seven Sins (Sinners on Sund…
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Sinners On Sunday
 41
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
The Emerald Highway
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Rainbow Highway
 80
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
The Ant Farm
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Black Wall in the alpenglow.
[Hide Photo] Black Wall in the alpenglow.
If you drive through salt flats on the way to the Summit Lake parking lot, beware that a herd of bigborn sheep might attack your car with their tongues!
[Hide Photo] If you drive through salt flats on the way to the Summit Lake parking lot, beware that a herd of bigborn sheep might attack your car with their tongues!
"Action, scenic, or otherwise attractive photo."
[Hide Photo] "Action, scenic, or otherwise attractive photo."
This topo is from 1989.  I left off Cannonball Corner because it was unfinished.
[Hide Photo] This topo is from 1989. I left off Cannonball Corner because it was unfinished.
The Black Wall.<br>
Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
[Hide Photo] The Black Wall. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Climber in red, heading up "Good Evans" what we called P3, just below the roof crux P4.Left splitter is "Cary Granite" headed into roof, right splitter is "Road Warrior"
[Hide Photo] Climber in red, heading up "Good Evans" what we called P3, just below the roof crux P4.Left splitter is "Cary Granite" headed into roof, right splitter is "Road Warrior"
The approach I used when accessing the rappel stations at the top of the Black Wall. First follow a trail that breaks north over the ridge toward the summit of Mt Spalding. Then head down the talus toward a small section of visible cliff.
[Hide Photo] The approach I used when accessing the rappel stations at the top of the Black Wall. First follow a trail that breaks north over the ridge toward the summit of Mt Spalding. Then head down the talus…
Sunday morning get-together at the top of the rappel route. There were 9 parties climbing The Black Wall that day, and we all arrived in a mad rush at the top of the rappels at practically the same time (~7:15am).
[Hide Photo] Sunday morning get-together at the top of the rappel route. There were 9 parties climbing The Black Wall that day, and we all arrived in a mad rush at the top of the rappels at practically the same…
Standing at the top of the wall with backpacks hung on the 70m rappel route.
[Hide Photo] Standing at the top of the wall with backpacks hung on the 70m rappel route.
Rappel from this anchor. 4 raps with single 70.
[Hide Photo] Rappel from this anchor. 4 raps with single 70.
After a lot of looking I was able to find my old Rock & Ice drawings, from #32. We called it the Black Wall because it felt like an alpine Black Canyon.
[Hide Photo] After a lot of looking I was able to find my old Rock & Ice drawings, from #32. We called it the Black Wall because it felt like an alpine Black Canyon.
If you have a single 70m, we found that these anchors (leftmost, about 100 feet left of the ones with chains on them as of July 2018) worked best. Leave your own draw, and collect it when you top out.
[Hide Photo] If you have a single 70m, we found that these anchors (leftmost, about 100 feet left of the ones with chains on them as of July 2018) worked best. Leave your own draw, and collect it when you top out.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] I may have been incorrect about additional information being available on the Internet. It appears that Rock and Ice issue number 63 has some information and some good topos on the Black Wall. Feb 24, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I had heard this area described as yosemite quality granite. I wrote this off until I laid eyes on the vertical splitter crack systems. As of the 4th of July, the entire wall is dry. Jul 6, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I found no article or topo in R&I #63. Jul 9, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Try R&I #32 or Climbing #105. I just looked this up on the online climbing mag index at:

ldeo.columbia.edu/~paulf/in… Jul 9, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Thanks George, I had the Climbing article, but couldn't find the R&I. Jul 10, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The second rap was sure CLOSE with two 60M's to the ledge. Careful! Aug 7, 2004
J. Thompson
denver, co
[Hide Comment] I beefed and cleaned up the anchors on the rappel route on 8-26-04.

I replaced the old button head bolt on top with a brand new ASCA bolt(was able to use the same hole) and added camo chains. On the "half way" anchor I pulled off a bunch of old tat, pulled one of the old pins, added a bolt, and put in camo chains. The next party down might want to bring one more quicklink to connect the 2 remaining pins- I left them connected with a booty biner- sorry I was one Quicklink short! Aug 26, 2004
[Hide Comment] J. Thompson- a little confused here, there are 2 sets of rap anchors from the rim- if you walk past the first (older) set, you come to newer bolts...did you replace the first set? 2nd set is faster, more direct, etc. Aug 27, 2004
J. Thompson
denver, co
[Hide Comment] After 2 recon mission's up there, and with direct reference to Hubbel's guide, this site, and with info from other people. I replaced the anchors on the "rap route". Both anchors are bomber and have chains.I actually found 3(or was it 4?) sets of bolts on the summit. I replaced the ones that had been most described as the standard rappel route.

I'm alittle disappointed that it took my time and effort for people to speak up and say there was a "better way".In any case the Original standard RR is bomber and has fixed chains. Aug 31, 2004
Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
[Hide Comment] We rapped the D'Antonio route, which was very clean and direct. Watch your ends at the bottom!

With all respect to J. Thompson's efforts, I have a suggestion:

The next person up there-- bring some pliers and move the chains to the D'A anchors. This would give us the clean raps and the nice new gear on the same route. Sep 4, 2004
J. Thompson
denver, co
[Hide Comment] Have you tried rapping the "Rap route"?

If the chains are moved I will most likely remove them.

Sep 5, 2004
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I have used both rap routes and found the one Bob installed to be more usefull. The rap is cleaner, without the potential for ropes being stuck. It also sets you at the base of the most popular routes and serves as a belay for the bolted route there. Whether there are chains there or not doesn't matter. It's no problem to leave some slings and retrieve them when you finish your route. Sep 6, 2004
[Hide Comment] I just wanted to let everyone know that the Black Wall and all climbing in the Upper Chicago Lakes basin (including bouldering) is affected by a voluntary seasonal wildlife closure from May 1st - June 30th. All climbing opens to use on July 1st.

Bighorn sheep and mountain goats use the area for lambing and kidding during this time and are extremely sensitive to any contact with humans.

The voluntary closure arose from Forest Plan Standard 102, which designates that it shall “restrict new developments, including new facilities, roads, and trails, and concentrations of humans, within a one-mile sight distance of bighorn sheep lambing and mountain goat kidding areas if they would adversely impact lambing or kidding.”

Climbing is considered to be a concentration of humans and therefore falls under the closure.

The newly created trail from the Upper Chicago lake to Summit Lake has been recognized as a source of potential disturbance as well and is closed during the lambing and kidding period in order to avoid negatively impacting reproduction patterns.

Here is a map of the area affected by the closure:


Mt Evans (May 1st - June 30th): Seasonal voluntary closure of the Upper Chicago Basin for bighorn sheep and mountain goat lambing and kidding.  The closure area affects the Black wall and any bouldering in the Upper Chicago Lake basin.  The Chicago Lakes trail is also closed in the affected are to any use.


If you have any further questions regarding access to the Black Wall or other Evans areas, you can send me an e-mail at horsetoothhang@yahoo.com

Cheers,
Cameron
Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition May 21, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Cameron. Can you clarify which bouldering areas on Evans are affected? Is it all of them? May 22, 2008
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] Obviously the Black Wall itself, and bouldering-wise Areas C & D. I'm pretty sure all downvalley bouldering is fine. May 22, 2008
[Hide Comment] The area that the lambing occurs is pretty obvious from the Summit Lake Col; you can easily see the mass impact of people to the animals. Probably won't matter much this year as we have a friggin' ton of snow up there now. May 22, 2008
[Hide Comment] Hi Peter,

I apologize for not responding quicker. The affected bouldering is Area D and anything near the Black Wall. Area C is outside of the closure area. All the lower areas are unaffected.

Mark is right though...there is so much snow this year that bouldering up there is pretty much shot anyway.

Cheers,
Cameron Jun 4, 2008
David A. Turner
Colorado
[Hide Comment] Ken Trout showed us his one rope rappel today. A 70 meter rope is essential, but gets you down no worries. When you are at the top of the wall looking out to the east, rap off the anchor on the right, the one with the long chains. Head down the ramp as you normally would, but stop at the first anchors you come to, about 25 meters down. The second rap goes climber's left off the ramp. After about 20 meters, it's a short rap, you will find an anchor on a small slab. (Ken told us he scrounged these anchors off of N. Table, so they look their age, but are completely trustworthy.) Head on down the steep wall looking for a "rock island" a full 35 meters down (knot the ends of the rope). There are two rock islands, you are aiming for the one on climber's right. The one on climber's left, somewhat higher up, has a one bolt anchor, and may not get you to the ledge system. The fourth and final rap takes you to the ledge system. Towards the bottom of the rap, Ken dropped his rope to climber's right of a large block, into a short chimney, was able to get onto good footholds, and then stroll over to the base of Good Evans. We went climber's left of the block, and had to downclimb a short ramp to the same place. Jul 27, 2008
J. Thompson
denver, co
[Hide Comment] A quick note on the "single rope descent".
The comment posted above was a little misleading.
You can make it down in 3 rappels with a 70m rope.
#1 Rap off the long Chains on top. Look for a 2 bolt anchor at a very good stance. This rappel is approximatly 30m.
#2 Rap down the ramp directly below the anchors. Once you've moved onto the steeper section of the wall trend left...aiming for an "island" aka ledge below. This is a long rappel checking in right at 35m, knot your ends. There are 2 bomber bolts.
#3 Rap off the bolts to the ledge system below. It's easy to scramble to the base of GE and RW from here.

Alternately you MIGHT be able to do the raps with a single 60m rope if you use the old rap anchor with chains in between rappels #2 and #3. Aug 3, 2008
[Hide Comment] Perhaps it was a mistake on my part by making up a new crag name, Roofer Madness Wall, rather than sticking with the Black Wall. The Roofer Madness Wall is the mainly north-facing wall to the climber's left of the east-facing Black Wall and part of the same cirque. I get the feeling that most folks perusing the climbs in this area probably completely miss the reference to the Roofer Madness Wall. Aug 5, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment]
Black Wall, June 3rd, 2011.
Jun 5, 2011
Kevin Murphy
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] So if using the rap anchors with chains RR, will (2) 60 meter ropes work. Will (2) 60s work for the Bob D. raps? Aug 25, 2011
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
[Hide Comment] Two 60s will get you down in 2 raps off Bob's anchors and the rap route. One might get you down on the rap route (70m definitely works) as there are several extra bolted anchors in the vicinity. Aug 26, 2011
Joseph Crotty
Erie, CO
[Hide Comment] There are two rappel descents for the black wall south (e.g., Good Evans, et al.):

  • Standard rappel route - mountainproject.com/photo/1…
  • D'Antonio rappel. Either can be used to access any route on the wall, however, the D'Antonio rap requires double 60m ropes.

Standard rappel route - use to access Cannonball Corner and anything climber's left of there; Road Warrior, Good Evans and Cary Granite. A single 60m or 70m works. 70m preferred. See photo below.

  • Find long chains on a block sitting right along the edge. Rap right and stay on the large ramp. Don't rap straight down. 60m rope users stop at the first anchor they come to. 70m rope users bypass the first anchor and head to the next which you can't see until your almost on top of it - good ledge on the ramp system.
  • Rap straight down and slightly left. Your aiming for a small ledge. Knot 60m rope as it's a stretcher.
  • Rap straight down. 60m rope users will have to scramble the last 30'.

D'Antonia rappel - use to access Cannonball Corner and anything climbers's right of there; Brown Dagger, Coffee Achievers etc. Double 60m ropes required.
  • Locate the Rappel Route anchor and while facing east move left about 70' and find the anchor along the edge. Rap straight down aiming for a semi hanging belay on two bolts that usually has some slings and carabiners on it.
  • Rap to base to access the climbs farther right or stop sooner if doing Good Evans, Road Warrior, Cary Granite, etc.
Jun 24, 2012
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment]
Standard Black Wall rap station as seen from the rim.
Jul 24, 2013
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
[Hide Comment] Last weekend, Eric and Ilana drug me along on their bad idea, "Mount Evans Triple Shot." We started in Idaho Springs, rode bikes to the summit, climbed the Black Wall, then headed down in a little over twelve hours.

There are a few good scenes of Cary Granite if you're interested in a glimpse.

youtube.com/watch?v=5CLEiwc… Sep 25, 2015
[Hide Comment] Since the addition of the route, Mer Dascht, the Black Wall section has really become the Black Wall Cirque section, since Mer Dascht (5.11) and the much-earlier climbed Roofer Madness (5.11) are now included. These routes are on a buttress of the north-facing part of the cirque. All of the other Black Wall routes are on the main Black Wall, which faces east. An obvious, 90 degree inflection point separates the two. Jul 17, 2018
tooTALLtim
Vanlife
[Hide Comment] Some notes:

-Joseph Crotty’s rap beta for the Rappel Route was right on, thank you, Joseph; also thank you, J. Thompson, for beefing them up! The long chains are on the Rappel Route. We were quite unhappy with a single 60m rope, a single 70m would be just right. The Rappel Route has clean pulls and very low chance of getting your rope stuck. We got down to climber’s left of Good Evans.

-We hung our stuff off the D'Antonio Rappel anchor but made sure not to block the lowest quicklink. I saw marmot tails waggling around at the rim while we were climbing up, so we were glad we hung our stuff!

-The approach picture by Michael Underwood is right on but varies a little with snow levels; with good snow, you could shave a bit off the top.

-Bring $5 (and a pen) for parking. I'm told that you don't have to pay if: you have a state pass, or a National Parks Pass on you dash. The ranger we asked didn't know either.

-This area is rad! Get after it :D Jul 6, 2019
Alex R
Golden
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if there are any developed lines between Rusty Dagger and Espresso other than Parallel Universe? It would likely take considerable hand drilling, but I am interested in developing a free line in this section of the wall, and I don't want to step on any toes. On a related note, have Parallel Universe, Rusty Dagger, or Unnamed Bolted Face gone free? Dec 19, 2022
[Hide Comment] RE: Alex
Myself and at least a few others have rapped in to scope it. I wouldn’t commit to drilling too many holes until you feel confident that you can do the moves through that massive roof. Dec 19, 2022