The Black Wall is the premier multi-pitch alpine rock climbing venue at Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans). This is where the long, committing routes are. The reason is simple, situated at a very high altitude, between 12,000 and 13,000', the easiest way to reach the routes is to rappel in. The Black Wall offers a fine selection of multi-pitch trad routes that face east. The easiest route would appear to weigh-in at 5.10. Good Evans is the classic line on the Black Wall. Check out the Road Warrior for some sick off-width action. From the parking area at the lake, head north. Most of the routes are accessed by hiking up and over the big hill to the north of the lake. Just past the col on the other side of the hill, start looking for rappel anchors on the top of the cliff. These may be hard to find, but they are there. They are at the top of a route named the Rappel Route. What else? You will probably want to take 2 200' ropes for the rappels. Mt. Evans can throw some gnarly weather your way, no matter what season it is. Be prepared to be committed on the routes on the Black Wall. Beta seems hard to find for this wall. Use Front Range Crags by Peter Hubbel - out of print unfortunately - as a reference. Additional topo information may be available on the Internet.Definitely go check out this awesome wall.
From the parking lot at the lake, head north. Hike up and over the hill in front of you. At the col on the other side of the hill, start looking for anchors on the top of the cliff. Peter Hubbel suggests that you can descend from the col at the lake and walk beneath the cliffs to access climbs.
Colorado Springs, CO
Golden, CO
Golden, CO
Boulder, CO
ldeo.columbia.edu/~paulf/in… Jul 9, 2003
Golden, CO
Around Boulder, CO
denver, co
I replaced the old button head bolt on top with a brand new ASCA bolt(was able to use the same hole) and added camo chains. On the "half way" anchor I pulled off a bunch of old tat, pulled one of the old pins, added a bolt, and put in camo chains. The next party down might want to bring one more quicklink to connect the 2 remaining pins- I left them connected with a booty biner- sorry I was one Quicklink short! Aug 26, 2004
denver, co
I'm alittle disappointed that it took my time and effort for people to speak up and say there was a "better way".In any case the Original standard RR is bomber and has fixed chains. Aug 31, 2004
Tamarisk Clearing
With all respect to J. Thompson's efforts, I have a suggestion:
The next person up there-- bring some pliers and move the chains to the D'A anchors. This would give us the clean raps and the nice new gear on the same route. Sep 4, 2004
denver, co
If the chains are moved I will most likely remove them.
Sep 5, 2004
Golden, CO
Bighorn sheep and mountain goats use the area for lambing and kidding during this time and are extremely sensitive to any contact with humans.
The voluntary closure arose from Forest Plan Standard 102, which designates that it shall restrict new developments, including new facilities, roads, and trails, and concentrations of humans, within a one-mile sight distance of bighorn sheep lambing and mountain goat kidding areas if they would adversely impact lambing or kidding.
Climbing is considered to be a concentration of humans and therefore falls under the closure.
The newly created trail from the Upper Chicago lake to Summit Lake has been recognized as a source of potential disturbance as well and is closed during the lambing and kidding period in order to avoid negatively impacting reproduction patterns.
Here is a map of the area affected by the closure:
If you have any further questions regarding access to the Black Wall or other Evans areas, you can send me an e-mail at horsetoothhang@yahoo.com
Cheers,
Cameron
Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition May 21, 2008
Boulder Colorado
Broomfield, CO
I apologize for not responding quicker. The affected bouldering is Area D and anything near the Black Wall. Area C is outside of the closure area. All the lower areas are unaffected.
Mark is right though...there is so much snow this year that bouldering up there is pretty much shot anyway.
Cheers,
Cameron Jun 4, 2008
Colorado
denver, co
The comment posted above was a little misleading.
You can make it down in 3 rappels with a 70m rope.
#1 Rap off the long Chains on top. Look for a 2 bolt anchor at a very good stance. This rappel is approximatly 30m.
#2 Rap down the ramp directly below the anchors. Once you've moved onto the steeper section of the wall trend left...aiming for an "island" aka ledge below. This is a long rappel checking in right at 35m, knot your ends. There are 2 bomber bolts.
#3 Rap off the bolts to the ledge system below. It's easy to scramble to the base of GE and RW from here.
Alternately you MIGHT be able to do the raps with a single 60m rope if you use the old rap anchor with chains in between rappels #2 and #3. Aug 3, 2008
Golden, CO
Longmont, CO
Evergreen, CO
Erie, CO
Standard rappel route - use to access Cannonball Corner and anything climber's left of there; Road Warrior, Good Evans and Cary Granite. A single 60m or 70m works. 70m preferred. See photo below.
D'Antonia rappel - use to access Cannonball Corner and anything climbers's right of there; Brown Dagger, Coffee Achievers etc. Double 60m ropes required.
- Locate the Rappel Route anchor and while facing east move left about 70' and find the anchor along the edge. Rap straight down aiming for a semi hanging belay on two bolts that usually has some slings and carabiners on it.
- Rap to base to access the climbs farther right or stop sooner if doing Good Evans, Road Warrior, Cary Granite, etc.
Jun 24, 2012Golden, CO
Colorado Springs, Co.
There are a few good scenes of Cary Granite if you're interested in a glimpse.
youtube.com/watch?v=5CLEiwc… Sep 25, 2015
Vanlife
-Joseph Crotty’s rap beta for the Rappel Route was right on, thank you, Joseph; also thank you, J. Thompson, for beefing them up! The long chains are on the Rappel Route. We were quite unhappy with a single 60m rope, a single 70m would be just right. The Rappel Route has clean pulls and very low chance of getting your rope stuck. We got down to climber’s left of Good Evans.
-We hung our stuff off the D'Antonio Rappel anchor but made sure not to block the lowest quicklink. I saw marmot tails waggling around at the rim while we were climbing up, so we were glad we hung our stuff!
-The approach picture by Michael Underwood is right on but varies a little with snow levels; with good snow, you could shave a bit off the top.
-Bring $5 (and a pen) for parking. I'm told that you don't have to pay if: you have a state pass, or a National Parks Pass on you dash. The ranger we asked didn't know either.
-This area is rad! Get after it :D Jul 6, 2019
Golden
Golden, CO
Myself and at least a few others have rapped in to scope it. I wouldn’t commit to drilling too many holes until you feel confident that you can do the moves through that massive roof. Dec 19, 2022