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Yosemite Valley

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Apathy Buttress 
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Cathedral Spires 
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Church Bowl 
Cookie Cliff, The 
Cookie Sheet, The 
Cream 
Eagle Creek Area 
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Elephant Rock 
Fifi Buttress 
Finger Lickin' Area 
Five and Dime Cliff 
Folly, The 
Generator Station 
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Goldrush 
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Kat Pinnacle 
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Knobby Wall 
Last Resort Cliff 
Leaning Tower 
Leaning Tower Base Routes 
Liberty Cap 
Little Wing 
Loggerhead Buttress 
Lost Brother 
Lower Brother 
Lower Cathedral Rock 
Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock) 
Mecca 
Middle Cathedral Rock 
Mojo Tooth Area, The 
Mount Broderick 
Narrow Escape cliff 
New Diversions 
North Dome 
Owl, The 
Parkline Slab 
Pat and Jack Pinnacle 
Public Sanitation Wall 
Pulpit Rock 
Quarter Domes 
Reed's Pinnacle Area 
Ribbon Falls Area 
Rixon's Pinnacle 
Roadside Attraction 
Rockfall Area 
Rostrum, The 
Royal Arches 
Royal Arches Boulder Cracks 
Schultz's Ridge 
Sentinel Creek Area 
Sentinel Rock 
Slab Happy Pinnacle  
Staircase Falls 
Sunshine Cliff 
Swan Slab 
This and That Cliff 
U.S.G.S. Wall 
Washington Column 
Wawona Tunnel 
Wawona Tunnel West 
Widow's Tears Area, The 
Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie 
Yosemite Falls Area 
Yosemite Valley Bouldering 

Yosemite Valley  


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Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 37.7436, -119.599 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 15, 2006
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Ribbon Falls area. Photo by Blitzo.

Climbing Closures 

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection - updated April 22, 2014

Description 

Yosemite Valley is THE PLACE for many rock climbers. A literal mecca for climbers across the globe, the crags and walls of "The Valley" see thousands of climber-days in the course of a year. During the height of the season, it's typical to hear climbers on El Capitan yelling back and forth in English, German, Japanese, Russian and many other languages. In this one place, many factors come together to form a nearly perfect arena for rock climbing; mild weather, beautiful scenery, and incredible granite walls perfectly suited to climbing. On a rest day, visit the many tremendous waterfalls, hike some of the beautiful trails, and breathe in one of the most incredible places in the entire country.

Getting There 

Yosemite Valley can be reached from the west, south or east via highways 120 (west), 140, 41 or 120 via Tioga Pass. The Tioga Pass drive through Tuolumne Meadows from the east side is normally closed from sometime in the fall through mid to late May due to snowfall.

Traffic is an ongoing issue with Yosemite Valley during the tourist season. On especially busy days, cars are even stopped from entering the park once its determined that capacity has been reached. Plan accordingly.

Weather 



Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

858 Total Routes

['4 Stars',145],['3 Stars',345],['2 Stars',246],['1 Star',102],['Bomb',10]
['<=5.6',31],['5.7',45],['5.8',82],['5.9',115],['5.10',277],['5.11',133],['5.12',44],['5.13',9],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',32],['V2-3',18],['V4-5',24],['V6-7',24],['V8-9',12],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Yosemite Valley:
Midnight Lightning   V8 7B     Boulder   Camp 4 Bouldering : Camp 4 - other problems
Snake Dike   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 8 pitches, 2000'   Half Dome
Nutcracker   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Manure Pile Buttress (aka R...
Bishops Terrace   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Church Bowl
Central Pillar of Frenzy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   Middle Cathedral Rock
Salathe Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2     Trad, Aid, 35 pitches, 3500'   El Capitan
The Nose   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2     Trad, Aid, 31 pitches, 3000'   El Capitan
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   Reed's Pinnacle Area
Steck-Salathe   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 15 pitches   Sentinel Rock
Royal Arches   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 15 pitches   Royal Arches
Sons of Yesterday   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   Royal Arches
East Buttress   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 9 pitches, 1200'   El Capitan
Outer Limits   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   The Cookie Cliff
Lunatic Fringe   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Reed's Pinnacle Area
East Buttress   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 11 pitches, 1100'   Middle Cathedral Rock
Serenity Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Royal Arches
The North Face   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 8 pitches, 700'   The Rostrum
Astroman   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   Washington Column
Separate Reality   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Wildcat Falls & Above the C...
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 23 pitches, 2200'   Half Dome
Browse More Classics in Yosemite Valley

Featured Route For Yosemite Valley
Looking down at the Bivy on the bolts between the Groove and the Triple cracks.  The Groove is visible below ond right of the Bivy. Shot is from half way up the first Triple Crack. June 1980

The Shield 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan
Despite beat out placements & seeing 100s of ascents the Shield is about as quintessential of a big wall as you could imagine. Gone are the rurp seams that Porter encountered on the FA but the overhanging headwall and spectacular position remain and make this a memorable ascent. The route breaks away from the ledges of freeblast with a few lack-luster pitches up through the grey ledges section. A protected bivy lies below the steep roof above. The climbing really begins with the Shield roo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Yosemite Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Bored in Yosemite.
Bored in Yosemite.
Skip Guerin barefoot on the Alien Roof (5.12b), Yosemite Valley. Photo by Steve Morris.
Skip Guerin barefoot on the Alien Roof (5.12b), Yo...
Bill Price on "The Phoenix", the first 5.13. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Bill Price on "The Phoenix", the first 5...
Rain/mist in the Valley.
Rain/mist in the Valley.
Classic Yosemite Valley view.
Classic Yosemite Valley view.
El Cap Meadow
El Cap Meadow
El Capitan alcove swing
El Capitan alcove swing
Shot taken from Yosemite Village.
Shot taken from Yosemite Village.
 <br />Most handsome ditch on the globe.
Most handsome ditch on the globe.
Rainbow-Vernal Falls. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Rainbow-Vernal Falls. Photo by Blitzo.
A beautiful day in November.
A beautiful day in November.
Sunset looking back towards Wawona.
Sunset looking back towards Wawona.
 <br />East end of Yosemite Valley and the high country above, view from the north.  Shot taken above Hetch Hetchy.
East end of Yosemite Valley and the high country ...
February storm
February storm
The Valley-Winter 1975. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
The Valley-Winter 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
John Bachar's throwing star target. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
John Bachar's throwing star target. Photo by Blitz...
Sunrise over the Clark Range. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Sunrise over the Clark Range. Photo by Blitzo.
Not in Pisa.
Not in Pisa.
Backside of Middle and Lower Cathedral Rocks, with El Cap and the Three Brothers in the background.  Taken from the summit of the Leaning Tower.
Backside of Middle and Lower Cathedral Rocks, with...
El Cap...
El Cap...
Out in the meadow. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Out in the meadow. Photo by Blitzo.
Troy Johnson on "Lightweight Guides" 5.10a. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Troy Johnson on "Lightweight Guides" 5.1...
Pool, Lower Yosemite Falls. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Pool, Lower Yosemite Falls. Photo by Blitzo.
Ed Jaramillo starts up Commitment,on his 50th b-day.  FoleyPhoto
Ed Jaramillo starts up Commitment,on his 50th b-da...

Show All 87 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Yosemite Valley Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2014
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 3, 2006
Effective July 31st access twice daily east/west bound with pilot car. See link for details and times.

inciweb.org/incident/news/arti...
By marde
From: Germany
Dec 30, 2008
getting there without a car:
from San Francisco airport:
bart (local train, bart.gov) to Richmond Station
change there to amtrak
amtrak (amtrak.com) train to Merced
yarts bus (yarts.com) from Merced to the valley
By Ryan DeBruyn
From: Redlands, CA
May 21, 2009
Not many bouldering problems posted on MP. Looking to boulder check out an excellent guide my Matt Wilder. Yosemite Valley Bouldering by SuperTopo. supertopo.com/packs/yosemitebo...
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 4, 2009
A good link to Valley Bouldering - betabase.blogspot.com/
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
May 11, 2011
Yosemite Valley Guidebooks that are currently available (and also a few notable ones that are no longer in print):


Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide - $30
The new comprehensive bigwalls book is finally here! It doesn't have the long history sections of the Supertopo, but boasts about five times as many routes. If you want to climb a route on Porcelain Wall, Sentinel, Middle Cathedral, or any of the other formations that aren't in the Supertopo then get this one. At $15 the eBook is a steal. 376 pages. Color.

Supertopo Bigwalls - $30
64 of the finest Bigwalls in the Valley. Highly accurate and detailed route information, a first ascent history for every climb, good logistic and "strategy" info on where to bivy, what to fix, ect... It focuses mostly on El Cap, has several route on the Column, but just briefly touches a few other formations. Now in it's 3rd edition, with updated "free" grades for most pitches. 208 Pages. Full color.

Supertopo Road to the Nose - $15
More of an training/instructional guide than an area guidebook. It does include topos for the Nose and a handful of other wall routes in the Valley, in addition to some cragging. 60 Pages. Full color.

Supertopo Free Climbs - $30
Accurate route information and interesting history. With only 230 routes, this is really just a "select" guide. Folks visiting for the first time will likely want to pick this one up. 209 pages. B&W.

Supertopo Sport Climbs and Topropes - $20
The Valley isn't known for it's sport climbing and there's not many places to set up a toprope without leading something first. But if you're just in the Valley for a few days and want to clip bolts, then I guess this is the book for you. There's a few areas in here with new or previously unpublished routes, mainly at Parkline, the Cookie Sheet, and Mecca. Unfortunately a sizable chunk of the material in this slim book was copy & pasted from "Yosemite Free Climbs". 120 Pages. Full color.

Supertopo Bouldering - $28
Many people overlook the bouldering in the Valley, but it's truly world-class. This is the best (and only "in print") guidebook for the Valley's bouldering. 160 pages. Full color.

Falcon Guide Free Climbs - $25
aka the "Reid guide". Currently the most comprehensive guidebook to the Valley, and the guidebook of choice for locals. Route information is often vague and somewhat suspect (beware the "pro to 3"), but with more than 10 times as many routes as Supertopo's, this guidebook is what you need to escape the crowds. This recently went out of print and is becoming increasingly difficult to find. 432 Pages. B&W.

Falcon Guide Free Climbs Select - $15
At only a marginally reduced price from the regular guidebook, this gutted version isn't really worth it. If you want a select guide, get the Supertopo. This is, however, the only book to feature "The Blowhole" sport crag at Wawona tunnel. Now out of print. 144 Pages. B&W.

Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls - Don Reid
The 3rd edition of this book has been out of print for a while and is difficult to find new. This book covers way more routes than the Supertopo Big Walls, and if you want to get on some less popular aid routes, especially on formations other than El Cap, then seek this book out! 216 Pages. B&W.

A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley - Steve Roper
A copy of this historic guidebook will most likely cost you a pretty penny but it details loads of older routes that can't be found in anywhere else. Many 4th and easy 5th class climbs and adventures to seldom visited pinnacles and formations, as well as obscure aid climbs can be found within these pages. Roper's written route descriptions often surpass, in detail and accuracy, the topos for those routes found in the Reid guide, but the (piton) rack beta is a bit dated. The one with the green cover is the most recent edition. 304 Pages. B&W.

A Climber's Guide to Yosemite - Richard Leonard & David Brower (1940)
From the Sierra Club Bulletin, basically the Valley's first guidebook. Click the link to view a scanned copy of it.
By Sammer
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Jul 9, 2011
A literal mecca? Thousands of climbing days a year?
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Jul 10, 2011
That's thousands of "climber-days," not climbing days. Which is different. If that clarification is necessary!
By tobin sanson
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 12, 2012
Here's a little video I put together after my first visit to the Valley:

By Colin Coulson
Sep 25, 2012
I haven't seen this amazing resource up on MP yet, so here it is - super hi-res panoramas from Yosemite's most striking summits: The Yosemite Extreme Panoramic Imaging Project

Zoom in/out on the images and you'll be able to explore the most stunning route finding resource available.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Apr 24, 2013

When to Climb



Yosemite Valley is a year-round climbing destination, but depending on what you're looking for, some months are better than others. Here's what you can expect...


Winter (Dec, Jan, Feb)

Winter days are short and frigid on the Valley floor. Walls with a southern aspect get more sunshine and typically warm up to perfect temperatures. Any climbing on the south side of the Valley (north facing) is out of the question unless it's one of the Valley's rarely done ice climbs. Longer routes will typically have a few wet sections from runoff, similar to spring conditions. During the winter, climbers will flock to the excellent cragging in the Lower Merced Canyon (Arch Rock, Cookie, Pat and Jack, Reed's Pinnacle, ect..) which are at lower elevation where the snow doesn't stick as much. If the sun is shining, you can count on climbing in a t-shirt.

Winter is also the perfect time to send your bouldering project, however winter storms can dump a lot of snow that can stick around the Valley floor for weeks. The crags typically dry out much faster than the boulders - usually within a couple days. Also watch out for falling sheets of ice that form at the top of some bigger cliffs and break loose in the AM. Overall, the weather is usually clear, but you do run a higher chance of it storming which makes planning a trip from far away more risky. The campgrounds are empty, and you will have your choice of sites at Camp 4 or Upper Pines.


Spring (Mar, Apr, May)

Spring brings longer days which means more time for climbing. And with the sun higher in the sky, the snow doesn't stick around nearly as long after a storm. Spring brings it's own set of challenges however, mainly in the form of wildlife. The falcons are the first on the scene, with many route and cliff closures for their nesting season beginning in March and extending into July. The ants start showing up in late March, and they can absolutely overrun belay ledges, rappel trees, and bouldering problems. In April the poison oak blows up the Lower Merced Canyon, so make sure you know what it looks like before you head down-valley. Then in May, the mosquitoes hit, and if it's been a wet winter, they will be absolutely miserable. Also in May, start watching out for yellow jackets which make their hives on the sides of crags, sometimes on very popular routes. Each year a few unlucky climbers get stung a whole bunch of times.

Aside from all that, the weather is typically good, starting out cool and crisp in March, and progressing to warm in May when you will likely start chasing shade. There's issues with runoff on some routes, and the descent gullies on the south side of the Valley are usually still full of snow. But if the skies are clear, you should have plenty to climb, and the skies are usually clear. Overall this is a great time to plan a trip to the Valley. Camping can be secured with ease in March, and gets more difficult and crowded as you head into May. From May 1st to September 15th, there is a 7-night camping limit in Yosemite which is rigidly enforced in Camp 4. Leaving the Valley and coming back does not "reset" this stay limit during this time.


Summer (Jun, Jul, Aug)

Summers in the Valley start out warm in June, and get oppressively hot in July and August when the mercury will regularly push triple digits in the sun (or 38 C, for non-Americans). Chasing shade is made difficult when the sun is directly over-head for much of the day. Many north facing formations (such as the GPA, and DNB) broil in all-day sun because they aren't vertical. A common strategy is to climb in the mornings on a west-facing cliff, then take lunch by the river before getting in a few more pitches on an east-facing cliff in the evening. Also if you can get elevated a few pitches above the Valley floor you will find cooler temperatures, and if a wind is blowing, then you'll be in business. Half Dome is typically packed with climbers during these months.

The mosquitoes, yellow jackets, poison oak, and falcon nesting closures persist through the majority of the summer months. Tioga Pass usually opens sometime between end of May and end of June, and provides an escape to the cool, elevated, and less crowded destinations of Tuolumne and the High Sierra. Valley camping in the summer requires an alpine start to get in line, and then a grueling wait to secure your seven nights in Camp 4. The summer is my least favorite time in the Valley, but big wall climbers often have a more favorable opinion since they can get around the ridiculous camping scene by bivying on the wall (plus getting offsets to stick in a C2 seam isn't affected by temperatures in the same way that getting your hands to stick in a 5.11 crack is).


Fall (Sep, Oct, Nov)

Autumn in the Valley is similar in temperatures to the Spring, except it's more dry, less buggy, has less frequent storms, and also the days are shorter. It starts out warm and crowded in September, and then progresses to cool and serene in November. Pretty much all routes are "in condition" during this period, and some formations which require crossing the river are finally made accessible by low water levels.

While September is quite warm, it's easier to chase shade because the sun is lower in the sky, and a Valley trip can be accompanied by a trip up to Tuolumne which is also excellent in this month. If you're going to be in the Valley at the end of September, consider joining in the trash clean-up and festivities of Facelift. October typically offers perfect temps in either the shade with a sweatshirt, or the sun in a t-shirt. The first big storm usually closes Tioga Pass sometime in November and also ejects most of the climbers and tourists alike, but November still usually sees many clear and crisp days, perfect for climbing hard boulder problems or sunny climbing.

Camping is still difficult in September, but gets much easier by October when all the tourists leave and Camp 4 truly becomes the "climber campground". Overall, the Fall is the best time to climb in the Valley, with the only disadvantage being the shorter days compared to April and May, so don't forget the headlamp if you're heading up something long.


By will jones
From: N.B.
Aug 13, 2014
Hey, I'm headed to the valley for 2-3 weeks in the start of october. I'll be flying into either Fresno or sacramento. What is the best way to get to the valeey from either of these locations? Bus, taxi, some sort of public transportation system? Also is it hard to find climbing partners this time of year? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
-Will