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BETA PHOTO: The route in blue
An element in art, chiaroscuro (Italian for lightdark) is defined as a bold contrast between light and dark.(wikipedia) Chiaroscuro a delicate thin face climb lies in sharp contrast to the thuggish crack-climbing of Brinton's, its neighbor to the left.
This climb starts to the right of Brinton's crack. It ascends through crimpers and the obvious undercling up to Hilton ledge. It is questionable where the route goes from here. One should stay right of Brinton's crack and avoid it.
A great option if you have a variety of climbers of varying abilities is to hang a toprope as for Brinton's Direct, which allows you to climb Brinton's, Brinton's Direct, or link The lower half of Chiaroscuro to Hilton ledge, reverse the crux traverse on Brinton's and finish on Brinton's Direct. (See picture) (not in the notch, but just west of it)
Lead would be exceptionally bold, that said I'm sure it's been led or soloed. On what gear I don't know.
Bow your head to the chalk gods.
Using every bit of daylight.
Fading colors, fading light.
Rhoads on lead. Perfect fall day!
Second half with some good pieces in finally, next...
Best 5.9 in DLSTP if you ask me. It was catching ...
|By Doug Hemken|
Oct 29, 2007
I've seen the lower section done a couple of different ways. Staying right and tagging the outside corner at regular intervals is easiest for me. Heading for the undercling James mentions is crimpier (if that's a word).
|By John W. Knoernschild|
Feb 2, 2009
What a great climb. And the ledge for resting in the middle was a great to warm up the hands Sunday. So cold, 32F.
|By Paul Campbell|
From: Sussex, WI
Feb 2, 2009
Awesome climb. Definantly 5.9+ with great balancy movement!
|By Trad Nanny|
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.9+ X
No pro to the rest ledge besides a directional at the top of the slab, then a few decent pieces and a slight run-out. Great climb that is often overlooked!