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Brinton's Buttress
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Chiaroscuro 

5.9+

   

FA: ??
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 60 feet
Views: 225 page views

Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Sep 27, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: The route in blue


Description 

An element in art, chiaroscuro (Italian for lightdark) is defined as a bold contrast between light and dark.(wikipedia) Chiaroscuro a delicate thin face climb lies in sharp contrast to the thuggish crack-climbing of Brinton's, its neighbor to the left.


Location 

This climb starts to the right of Brinton's crack. It ascends through crimpers and the obvious undercling up to Hilton ledge. It is questionable where the route goes from here. One should stay right of Brinton's crack and avoid it.

A great option if you have a variety of climbers of varying abilities is to hang a toprope as for Brinton's Direct, which allows you to climb Brinton's, Brinton's D, or link The lower half of Chiaroscuro to Hilton ledge, reverse the crux traverse on Brinton's and finish on Brinton's direct. (See picture) (not in the notch, but just west of it)


Protection 

Lead would be exceptionally bold, that said I'm sure it's been led or soloed. On what gear I don't know.



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Bow your head to the chalk gods.

Bow your head to the chalk gods.

Using every bit of daylight.

Using every bit of daylight.

Fading colors, fading light.

Fading colors, fading light.


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By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Oct 29, 2007

I've seen the lower section done a couple of different ways. Staying right and tagging the outside corner at regular intervals is easiest for me. Heading for the undercling James mentions is crimpier (if that's a word).