Way Rambo is located near the top of the approach trail to the Rambo Wall. Upon reaching the top of the trail and the routes Rochambeau and the Fuzz (or whatever that long-ass 5.10 hand crack is), head left around the corner and look up. You'll see an incredibly striking hands - thin hands - off fingers splitter with two distinct leftward hand traverses, one at 30 and one at 80 feet approximately. This is the crag's namesake and one of the more fabulous and kick ass cracks around. The basic consensus is 'way bitchin' and 'way fuckingradman' and, my own creation, 'way butter', a play on way nutter. The first half of the pitch is 5.10, and as the crack narrows the grade steepens.
Protection
The guide suggests about ten pieces of pro. 4 in the 2.5 in. range, and 2 or 3 2, 1.5, and 1 inch pieces. which breaks down to 2 #2 camalots, 2 or 3 #1 camalots, and what in my experience was basically #.75 camalots to the top of the pitch. although a slightly smaller piece will fit (i.e. a red metolius, etc. towards the end of the pitch).
Does anyone know what time of day this particular route goes into the sun? I'm not sure but it seems to face more south than the other routes here.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Nov 1, 2005 rating: 5.12a
I think that the grade is size dependant, as IC always is. Big enough fingers and the crux is not bad, small enough hands and maybe that's OK too, but boy, those would have to be very small hands. The crux was a narrow offset just below the last traverse, a loose 1.5" crack. It spit me off.
The last traverse was bomber enough all the way to the finish that I more or less campused that section to the chains on my second try at the route, even though tired.
Regardless, I thought that this route was hard enough to be 12-, as I fell *following it* although I flashed a few 11+/12- on the same trip. Owch.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.12-
Hello - The first free ascent of "Way Rambo" was done by Steve Petro and myself in about 1990 or so. About the same time we did the FFA of "Slice and Dice".
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