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Layaway Plan 

5.11d

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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BETA PHOTO: Layaway Plan as you aproach it from around the cor...

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Description 

This is an awesome tight hands, right-facing, varnished corner. It is immediately right of the obvious Serrator Crack, and 100 yards left of Way Rambo.

Climb a short wide section to a rest ledge, fire up to a second rest before a bulge, through the bulge up into the roof. Undercling or jam the roof for 12 feet, turn the corner and fire up to the anchors.

Awesome!


Protection 

Camalots:
1 ea. 0.4
1 ea. 0.75
6 ea. #1
2 ea. #2
1 ea. #3



Photos of Layaway Plan Slideshow Add Photo
This is where I had to start layin' back.  It's about 2/3 of the way to the roof

This is where I had to start layin' back. It's ab...

Undercling out the roof.  Only two spots opened up to fit my hands and that just wasn't gonna work for me!! <br />I fell shortly after this pic pumping out trying put in another piece.

Undercling out the roof. Only two spots opened up...

This is me doing the Layway Plan on Layaway Plan.  One or 2 moves and I fall.

This is me doing the Layway Plan on Layaway Plan. ...

Rest before the crux.

Rest before the crux.

John Daly on Layaway Plan (IC 5.11d) takes a break from the climbing to watch Andrew Burr style up The Serrator (5.11OW) next door.

John Daly on Layaway Plan (IC 5.11d) takes a break...

Taken in 11/04, this photo shows the damage to soft rock caused by the friction of rope when lowering or TRing this route.

BETA PHOTO: Taken in 11/04, this photo shows the damage to sof...

Preparing for the beat down compliments of the roof...

Preparing for the beat down compliments of the roo...

Great rest about 1/3 of the way up the corner.

Great rest about 1/3 of the way up the corner.

Trying to clean the fine sand off the wall before committing to the roof.

Trying to clean the fine sand off the wall before ...

Lizzy nearing the crux of the Layaway Plan. Photo by Sarah Selling

Lizzy nearing the crux of the Layaway Plan. Photo ...

avoiding the plan

avoiding the plan

copping a stem and refueling before the roof.

copping a stem and refueling before the roof.


Comments on Layaway Plan Add Comment
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By SirVato
From: Boulder
May 12, 2006

This is an awesome corner. I tried jamming most of the way to the roof but ended up in the "Layaway plan". There are some good rests. So you don't have to just chug the whole way.

By Brian Weinstein
Sep 23, 2006
rating: 5.11d

A #2 fits perfectly at the lip of the roof, although that is the only goldie I placed. This is a striking route with three stained lines on the wingate just to the left.

By camhead
Oct 6, 2006

If you place a piece at the lip of the roof, it is very likley that, when you clip into the anchors and weight the rope, the rope will push the piece at the roof WAY up into the crack. I did this, and just barely got my gold camalot back out.

I suppose that the best way to avoid this would be to runner the lip piece, and then just make sure that the rope is out of the crack before you weight it.

By camhead
Mar 13, 2007

3/13/07, my friend Kevin replaced the anchors on this route. Much needed; it's incredible that so many folks have climbed and TR'd on the formerly mank anchors.

By Chris Strouthopoulos
From: Durango, Co
Nov 16, 2007

Follow the above advice about not putting in a cam above the lip of the roof. I was super pumped by the time I got there and fired one in a few feet above the lip on the vertical section. It's still there, a good 3 feet into the crack (we couldn't even get to it with a v-threader that a buddy happened to have in his pack). Don't make my mistake. Although it's a bit run out, keep firing to the anchor.

SUPERB line. Highly recommended.

By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
May 15, 2008

Camhead, thank your friend Kevin for anchor replacement. I was excited to see them recently as I was expecting the old rat nest. I too, found that by using short quickdraws on all my pieces under the roof I was able to avoid having my rope smash the cams deep into the abyss, thus making any runout unnecessary. Awesome line.

By A. Wolaver
From: Golden, CO
Nov 26, 2010
rating: 5.11

This route is simply georgous and relatively unviolated. The best strategy for keeping all you cams is to place a great #1 camelot at the rest in the beginning of the roof then chug to the anchors.