Layaway Plan 

This is an awesome corner. I tried jamming most of the way to the roof but ended up in the "Layaway plan". There are some good rests. So you don't have to just chug the whole way.

A #2 fits perfectly at the lip of the roof, although that is the only goldie I placed. This is a striking route with three stained lines on the wingate just to the left.

If you place a piece at the lip of the roof, it is very likley that, when you clip into the anchors and weight the rope, the rope will push the piece at the roof WAY up into the crack. I did this, and just barely got my gold camalot back out.

I suppose that the best way to avoid this would be to runner the lip piece, and then just make sure that the rope is out of the crack before you weight it.

3/13/07, my friend Kevin replaced the anchors on this route. Much needed; it's incredible that so many folks have climbed and TR'd on the formerly mank anchors.

Follow the above advice about not putting in a cam above the lip of the roof. I was super pumped by the time I got there and fired one in a few feet above the lip on the vertical section. It's still there, a good 3 feet into the crack (we couldn't even get to it with a v-threader that a buddy happened to have in his pack). Don't make my mistake. Although it's a bit run out, keep firing to the anchor.

SUPERB line. Highly recommended.

Camhead, thank your friend Kevin for anchor replacement. I was excited to see them recently as I was expecting the old rat nest. I too, found that by using short quickdraws on all my pieces under the roof I was able to avoid having my rope smash the cams deep into the abyss, thus making any runout unnecessary. Awesome line.

This route is simply georgous and relatively unviolated. The best strategy for keeping all you cams is to place a great #1 camelot at the rest in the beginning of the roof then chug to the anchors.