Castleton Tower is on the right, The Priest and th...
Description
It is of the utmost importance that you bring a gym/sport climber with you to follow you on this routes, especially if they are European. Doing this will make this route an even more memorable experience. Trust me. Additionally, do the route in the winter. You can get 1/2 price motel rooms in Moab and the crowds won't be there.
To reach the route, follow the directions to Castleton Tower. Take the trail and head to the left (North) side of the tower to bypass the short cliff band. It should be noted that this cliff band is fun to down-climb in the dark, so you may not want to miss it. The route is the big fat (as in there is no way in hell to miss it) dihedral on the right side (South?) as you approach the tower.
P1 - this is a relatively short 5.easy pitch that starts at a dihedral crack system, goes up about 20 feet to a big ledge, head for a fatty dihedral, that puts you onto another almost as big ledge, takes you to another short fatty and sends you to a belay at yet another big ledge.
P2 - head up to the next obvious crack/dihedral system. It is weird and is more or less a double crack system. You'll figure-out how to do it. This pitch also takes a couple of bomber medium to large stoppers towards the top. At the end of this pitch, you will be placed at a ledge with a bolted belay. Oh yeah, its honest 5.8.
P3 - this is the business (true 5.9). Most of it is wide. All I can say is don't get tunnel vision at the crux, which, as I mentioned has a bolt near it. If you are a runt like me, you can squeeze into the chimney after the crux and feel secure. This pitch is where I got to hear my German friend curse in two languages - it was awesome. Don't blow the exit moves. You arrive at a bolted belay.
P4 - you can either do 5.7 face or the 5.similar chimney to the left. Definately due the chimney if someone in your party is not a trad climber. You can easily watch them flail. This pitch is not too long compared to the 2nd and 3rd. There is an anchor just below the summit. You'll have to pee by now, so go ahead and get on the summit (on belay of course).
We did this thing in 3 raps. From the top anchor, rap to the end of the 2nd pitch. From there go to the top of the 1st pitch. You know the rest.
Note: You can and should back-up every belay. Also, there is calcite all up and down this route. I hate calcite - except for one place where you agree with me.
Protection
A standard rack will work fine on this route. If you are a little squeamish, then you could bring Big Bros, size 5-6 Friends and/or color-coded 2x4s cut to different lengths. There are a couple of bolts on the crux pitch, so don't despair. Bring 2 ropes to rappel.
Feel free to blow the exit moves on pitch three if you really want to. There is a good crack in the back of the chimney, and there is also a horizontal, both of which take small cams.
Big gear is basically just extra weight on the crux pitch, but there are several places, including just before and just after the crux, where you can place small cams behind chockstones. But definitely bring a number four friend or camalot for P2! I followed this pitch, and thought it was harder than the crux, which I led!
Descent: with two 200 foot ropes, you can rap the North face from bolted anchors in two raps (3 raps with 50-M ropes). This is also a good alternative if people are coming up the Kor route.
To provide balance to the two previous comments, I found the third pitch to be harder than the second (I led both a few days ago.) P2 is more sustained in difficulty, but the crux of P3 is more difficult than anything on P2.
Rack: 1 each cams blue TCU to #4 Camalot. Half set of nuts (every other one). Runners and QDs. I found this route to be considerably more difficult than the North Chimney.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Oct 31, 2001
I followed both pitches(I suck), but I found the second pitch much harder than the third. I hung a few times on the second, and really didn't think the third was that hard(and I always flail on wide 5.9). I did think the third is very beta intensive however-I watched my leader work through the crux for a *long* time, so I was armed with perfect beta for the move.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Nov 1, 2001 rating: 5.9+
Ben, are you serious, why would you need to back up the belays on this route (bomber bolts)? It is a rap route, after all. And the calcite is great, it can be slippery, but it forms face holds which make the crux much easier. It also forms a hard layer which protects the softer sandstone. Would you rather be groveling up some sandy, flared, decomposing squeeze chimney?
George, it is a good practice to back-up a belay when you can. I also like to back-up the anchors on rappel and have the fat guy go first. I'll agree that most of the bolts on the Kor-Ingalls are pretty good, but you just never know. What can I say - I'm a safety nazi? Also, I've crowbarred bolts easily out of more solid sandstone in the SE US, so the softer stuff in Utah has my attention. Finally, one last thing I should mention to those of you climbing on this softer sandstone - don't lean outward on anchors here.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Nov 3, 2001 rating: 5.9+
You're right it never hurts to be extra safe. True, it is sandstone, but I always think of Castleton as some of the most solid sandstone in Utah (particularly since it has that calcite layer). It's like granite compared to some of the other sandstone I've climbed on (like the Fischers)!
My partner and I hadn't even planned on climbing this when we did...but after being literally raced to the base of Ancient Art (our originally intended route) by another party who absolutely had to get there first, we decided to climb Castleton instead. Thinking we'd need big gear (#4.5 and #5 Camalots and/or Bigbros) which we'd left at home, we almost changed our mind. But as someone mentioned before, they would've only gotten in the way. I'd definitely bring a #3.5 and a #4 for the second pitch, and a screamer for at least one of the old bolts at the crux. I had also expected the crux to be a heinous grunt, but it turned out to be fun and pretty much all face climbing and stemming. I watched the second of the party in front of us try to climb the crux more like a chimney, falling multiple times. As for the second pitch, my partner thought it was harder than the crux, which I can see, as it's a bit tricky and more sustained. Regardless, it's definitely a fun route to an amazing summit in one of the most beautiful places on earth.
This climb is quite nice. I agree that at least up to a #3 camalot is good to bring. The third pitch really doesn't require much big gear. Leave the #5's and the Big Bros at home.
One more thing, stay near the outside of the chiminey on the last pitch. Although it is very easy, "the Deuce" Dawson and I had a humerous (for me) and painful (for him) experience. The Deuce was leading and decided to climb too far into the chiminey. Before he realized it, the chimney was too tight to slide out of and constricted above his head. The only way out was to go back down. The Deuce began a groveling slide back down when a #3 cam got wedged between a flake and his balls. "AAAGGHHH !!*#*!%*!&!!!!!!" hollered the Deuce. Five minutes later, now thouroghly castrated, he reclimbed the deceivingly simple chimney. Apparently I did not learn from the Deuce's misfortune, and I found myself sliding back down to reclimb the outtermost lip of the chiminey. My big head and butt could not be mashed down enough to fit through the constriction at the top. Once again, don't go too deep into the chimney on the last pitch. While it may be completely obvious to everyone else, give your balls a break.
In response to Aaron's comment about the pro on pitch three:
After clipping the bolt at the crux of the pitch, there is no pro for the next 50 ft. to the top. The only possible gear would be a large big bro. One exception may exist however. I am told by a grizzled veteran of the desert that there does exist deep in the recesses of the crack a small Alien placement. It's supposed to be somewhere behind the big chockstone that one stands upon after completing the crux.
Totally wrong! 1) you can back up the last bolt w/ a small alien behind a chockstone; 2) just after completing the crux, there is another small alien behind a chockstone (seemed pretty good) 3) I seem to remember a fixed sling somewhere after the crux, though I'm not sure. 4) after getting into the final chimney before the belay, there is a crack running up the back (on the left) which will yet again take small camming units, a bit blind but seemingly good, and finally 5) before commiting to the exit move out of the chimney onto the belay ledge, a horizontal crack offers a good small/medium friend.
Many of these placements are difficult to make, but worthwhile if you are feeling insecure (e.g., I placed the alien to back up the bolt, but clipping it was a bitch, so I ended up just going for it, but it certainly can be done).
Take it from someone who was challenged by the pitch!You don't need to be a grizzled vet to see these placements, they're not that hidden...
A little argumentative there AC. I thought the point here was to relate OPINIONS based on our own personal EXPERIENCE with the route. I'm glad you sewed it up. If I'd have fallen from the top of the pitch I would have taken a 120 footer.
"after clipping the bolt at the crux, there is no pro for the next 50 feet to the top. The only possible gear would be a large big bro."
No disrespect, but you offered that as fact, not opinion, as if it were obvious and beyond debate. But it's just not true! Fact is, there are several good placements that would probably hold a fall, particularly the ones near the end of the pitch (well beyond the rumored site of the legendary alien) are very good and not difficult to place. While admittedly we're not talking about firing in friends at Indian Creek, I think it's very misleading to suggest with an authoratitive tone that a fall will likely result in a hundred-plus footer. If I had read your comment before doing the climb I'm sure I never would have done it!
I'm sorry to sound so argumentative, but I think you do people (particularly 9+/10- leaders) a disservice by being so dismissive of the possibilities for gear. When you lead well above the grade of a pitch, it's easy to overlook stuff like that.
Charles, You are right. I didn't expect any gear besides the big bros so I didn't look for it. If it hadn't been cold, maybe I wouldn't have minded spending 5 min placing one, but I just kept climbing instead. Message to all future ascentionists: There is good pro. Do this route.
I would also agree that P2 seemed a bit harder to lead. The climbing wasn't really all that hard, just kinda awkward or something. I had to hang twice on it, but did P3 without too much trouble. There is pretty good gear on P3 after the bolt, mostly TCU's. I also placed a couple big cams on the OW section, and used a couple screamers for the bolts. Very fun route though.
An interesting follow-up to Chris and my little spat above: a friend of mine (who has been a solid, safe trad leader for many years and done many alpine and other "adventure" routes--however, this was his first tower attempt) took a 60 foot fall onto the topmost bolt on this crux pitch!! He hadn't placed any gear after the bolt--I don't know whether he noticed the small cam placements and ignored them, or didn't notice them, as he just told me over e-mail.
All I can say is, look for those gear placements at the top of that final chimney, they are definitely solid and will make the 60 footer a 2-10 footer. Incidentally, he was unhurt, aside from bruises & cuts!
A few comments... first, what is up with pitch 1?? that's the hardest 5.4 squeeze chimney I've ever seen. Both my partner and I should pitch 3 was definitely more difficult and sustained than P2. P3 protection above the bolt was clipping a ratty sling and then a yellow alien in the back of the final squeeze chimney.
The screw oval at the top of P3 is OPEN and BENT - DO NOT USE. We rapped off a leaver biner, but I fear for the party that doesn't notice the condition. It should definitely be replaced.
Rapping - you can rap the route with a single 60m. Green's guide is ambiguous about this, but it will definitely (but just barely) reach. Use appropriate judgement regarding other parties on the route.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Sep 29, 2003 rating: 5.9+
Myke, are you sure you went the easiest way on pitch 1? I recall moving up and right, then back left into the main line of the crack (up an easy chimney). It couldn't have been too bad because I have free soloed this pitch, and I am a wimp without a rope.
Just a few quick questions to anyone who wants to answer. Does the route get crowded in the spring, say around March? What is the best time to start off from the campground? Ok that's all. Thanks.
No need for the 4.5 or 5 Camalot, but 2 #4s for the second pitch is helpful. Many placements for smaller cams along the route. The crux of the third pitch is a bit tricky, but all there. Look for holds on the white calcite section. Several smaller holds lead to two bomber hand holds only a few feet past the crux. There ae two more bolt inside the crack. After that, there are plenty of spots for small cams up to the belay. Easy to find good pro, but don't pass up any opportunites to put something in. I never used any nuts, nor the aforementioned large Camalots .
RAPPEL: We rapped down the north side in 2 raps with 2 60m 8.8s. This rappel is dead vertical and kind of spooky to start, so pay attention!
Regarding first pitch, I believe we encountered two chimneys... the first down lower which is shown as 5.8 (and about right by my estimate) in the Bjornstad guidebook and as 5.7 in the Supertopo, and a second chimney a bit higher which is the 5.4 chimney we all hear about. I believe the lower chimney is avoidable by heading right around it, up a crack which, according to the Green guidebook goes at 5.5. Please note that I've said "I believe" twice here. I stayed in right most crack on the second pitch and got good pro, and found TCU placements inside the offwidth on P3. We used two ropes, a 60m and a 50m, and made three raps. Only one party was in front of us and they bivied at the base, and only one party followed us... everyone else, a steady line, was on the North Chimney!
The Falcon Guide to Utah claims you can rap the North Face in 4 100 foot raps. We used a 70 meter rope which did not make it from the 1st to 2nd rap station. It made it to a protected ledge about 20 feet above the next rap station. We delicately rapped off a conveniently placed bolt, leaving a locker to get the next rap station. We did pass a 2 bolt anchor w/o chains before the 1st rap station. We may have not used the correct rap line off the North Face. Anyone know if there is another rap line we should have taken?
Did this 4.17.04. Gear suggestions are always relative, but if you're a solid 5.10 climber then you won't need very much gear. I didn't bring anything bigger then a 3.5 Friend and I did wish, when I was 15 feet above my last piece on pitch 2, that I had a #4 Camalot. Otherwise, a single set of cams is plenty. The first bolt on pitch 3 sticks out about an inch. The other two bolts are decent. There is a ratty sling after the last bolt on pitch 3. Other then a brief bit of squeezing at the beginning and end of pitch 3, I stemmed the whole crux. Two 60 meter ropes will get you down the north face (you actually are rappelling down Castles Buring, not the North Face). If you only have one 60 meter rope, I think you want to rap to the bomber anchors at the beginning of the bolt line).
Unrelentingly wide and polished and containing a suprising amount of loose rock, K/I is the worst climb on Castleton. It's hard to believe the numerous parties who queue up for this route actually enjoy the climbing. If you're looking for wide, the offwidths and chimneys on West Face, North Chimney, Arrowhead, Burning Sun and even North Face are all more enjoyable than K/I's.
This climb seemed a lot easier and more fun when I first did it in 1982.
Climbed it on 2/13/06. I carried doubles in BD #.5-#4 & 1-#5 with 1-60m rope. Be sure you knot the ends of your rope for the rappels. Last rappel on 1st pitch does not reach the ground, so you have to down climb 2 or 3 moves to get to the bottom. An excellent route, but not for a beginning offwidth climber. The veiws are superb from the top. Climb in the winter and avoid the crowds.
By Mark Michaels From: Draper, UT Oct 16, 2006 rating: 5.9+ PG13
I concur with others that say large gear is dead weight on this one. I #4 camalot might work on the 2nd pitch, but I recall sewing it up with smaller gear. There is adequate protection in the 3rd pitch chimney, including a small cam or medium nut in the very back just below the top. Miss that last placement and you'll be trembling on the awkward, exposed finish. I thought there was more dirt and loose rock by far on the N. Chimney.
eric i couldn't agree more. but you don't have to got over to the rectory or sister superior for a better route just walk around the tower to the north face.
There are definitely 2 "chimneys" on P1, the first one is a hard squeeze , quite tight and slick as f*** because of the calcite drips (5.8 for sure) and the second wider with feet (lots easier). If you go around the block to avoid the 1st one, watch the rope drag and be ready for some insecure moves and a bit of a run out. Overall, P1 = meh. P2 is awesome! I still can't stay in the main crack (wide, might have to walk the #4) and have to do a hard bouldery traverse into the double crack to the right after climbing about a body length. Sweet lieback/hands with great gear but increasingly slick feet until you can snag a horn that will drop about 2" when you weigh it... Gets your heart running but it's solid. P3 is sick, quite spooky but there are only a few insecure moves on bolts and a bunch of solid small pieces in between (I placed #1 & #2 C3s and .4 & .75). Leave your large pieces and doubles at the belay, rack on the sides so you don't get too tangled in the offwidth, clip a slung block, do a couple hard moves to dive in the squeeze and get back out after the 3rd bolt. Good crimps on the calcite, wide stem between the arete and the left face, lots of air all around you, a few hard insecure moves and you can be back to the safety of the squeeze. Another exciting moves get you out to the belay. The last pitch is short but great, another chimney off the belay for good measure then a sweet flake with great gear brings you to the top. Rap the North Face with 2 60m (watch the ends, the 2nd rap is long) and check out the route, it looks stellar. But burly.
By Daniel Lay From: St. George, UT Dec 23, 2008 rating: 5.10a/b
Dec 21 I climbed this route. This was my first desert tower attempt. I don't see how the ratings work on this thing. ha. 1st pitch was a tight squeez. 2nd pitch don't go in the offwidth!!! Go right and you'll find the way with smaller placements instead of #5's! Pitch three... I got to the top bolt and could not fit in the crack. so like everyone says you have to face climb. well Im a face climber and that was f****** crazy run out s***. Not no 5.9! Therefore didn't finish. lowered off bolt on crux. IF YOU ARE NOT USE TO O/W. BRING A # 6 OR BIG BRO, UNLESS YOU WANNA RISK A HUGE WHIPPER. I'll definately stick to north chimney next time.
I actually would disagree about the exposure. There wasn't any spot that I noticed. Each belay is at a nice ledge. I agree that the first squeeze chimney is pretty dang hard! We moved up the very back of it and LB up the edge of the block. This seemed to be easier. (I actually dislocated my knee on this pitch and thought really hard about lowering down, but I kept going without leading any other pitches). The crux 3rd pitch proved to be darn tough. I was told by someone that the crux can be easily stemmed and that there were huge jugs on both sides the whole way up. I did not find this to be true. There were a few jugs on the left side only. To get to them I had to make some committing crimp moves on slippery calcite (I found that stuff more annoying than helpful). The jugs pulled me far enough to the left that I couldn't get a good stem. At least this part was quick. The pro. was pretty much the bolt until just past the crux. Small gear was found deep in the chimney but not until after the crux (a bit runnout). I also don't know why this is the "classic" route (maybe just the history). The climbing itself isn't all that special. I have been told that the North Chimney and North Face routes are WAY better! Still glad I did it though. But I would not repeat it.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Dec 26, 2008 rating: 5.9+
The easiest way to climb the crux is using stemming, exactly because there are no huge jugs. Some small calcite face holds make it possible to move your feet up the stems. Also, there is no hard offwidth on pitch 1 if you go the easy way. I've done this route twice and would gladly repeat it many more times. I don't see what so many people are unhappy about.
By westy From: Loveland, Co Mar 20, 2009 rating: 5.9 R
Well...Did the route and glads its over. I love those desert ratings... Crazy chimney fest is the best to describe it. I led the crux and I guess I was in the moment, because I clipped the bolt with a sewn sling and made myself fit into the armpit of hell. After using my toes to move myself bit by bit, I popped out just below the anchors. I didnt even know I passed the crux. But in fair opinion, this route is a good one, it runs you out and wears you down. Not for the faint hearted. Thought the trail to get there above the cliff bands are more of a concern due to the lack of traction with the "ball bearing" sand and stones. Note: Top needs new summit book and pen. And the first pitch belay station should have all the slings cut off and replaced with new one. (I put a 7 mil cord on for a comfort rap.) Might be back.... :0)
as noted above - we also encountered two chimneys in the first pitch. I went way deep in to use the crack to protectand ended up walking up my #4 to the top and pulled it so my partner didn't have to go in as deep. Calcite makes for slick chimneys - but I think I would still recommend not going all the way in on the first chimney and just run it out.
physically and mentally works you - loved and cussed every move
By tongmengjia From: Fort Collins, CO Apr 16, 2009
I want to do this route just because of the hilarious description
Did 'Kor-Ingalls' 6/9/09...never climbed anything like it! The off-widths would have been fine had there been no calcite, but the slippery-ness made it ruthless...tough to get good gear placements on the calcite as the cams were sliding around and not very sound...used a #4 big bro on pitch three that was essential for us. Thought the 5.9 grade was pretty damn sandbagged, but i'm not an experienced off-width climber so it may be dead on. This route is definately full value and no pitches should be blown off, even the "5.6" first pitch (no way in hell is that chimney 5.6). Anyways, have fun and it's definately worth a do!
-JW
By jmeizis From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 15, 2009 rating: 5.9 PG13
I climbed both the North Chimney and K-I on the same day back in April. The climbs are honestly like twins both formed from the same crack running through the entire formation it seems. K-I gets sun most of the day and was fairly sustained but I never felt like the moves got past 5.8. The questionable bolts on the infamous crux pitch had other gear nearby and were therefore not as scary as I thought they would be.
North Chimney on the other hand didn't feel very sustained but the cruxes were pretty in my face. It was also cold and windy on that side of the formation, probably better to climb it on a hot day. I also never felt any of the moves got above 5.8 although it was a little strenuous and awkward at the beginning of each pitch. I lead the second pitch since I got the classic pitch on K-I and that spinning sheet metal hanger with not other gear in made me nervous. I might have gotten a little tunnel vision because I didn't see any other gear for a while and was practically pissing my pants.
All in all I'd say both climbs are in the 5.8+/5.9- area. The crux of K-I is more technical I felt and was two moves that I could say felt 5.9. The North Chimney was just thuggery and the moves were mostly difficult in that I had to squeeze my little ass up there with my knees by my ears half the time. K-I is higher quality in some ways but much more crowded. Although when I climbed it we actually ended up waiting for two parties on the North Chimney and we only had to wait for one on K-I.
Liz Wattenberg and I (local ASCA) replaced two of the anchors and the two lead bolts with half inch stainless yesterday. No need to carry tat now. We also put a new log book on the summit as the others were pretty full. Sam
Thanks for the new anchors. The first is in a better place, much safer looking than on the block. Long chains... heavy eh? The bolts on the third were classic to tighten by hand in the past, but the new bolts make it less sketch. When we headed up there was a cut rope on the third pitch, locked into the block where you get your squeeze on. I think the new anchors are not in the perfect spot. The spot the other anchors were in , (just to the right)was good for the pull. Our rope fell into the chimney also but popped through. Now climbable with one 70m rope. Thanks again your time and work on this. eo
I had to place the anchors in that spot cus the location for the old ones is a slab that is hollow. I tapped it with the hammer and it rattled, so I moved them. This was the best location with solid rock.
Glad you posted about the rope on the third pitch...blue one right. Yup it tis mine. It got stuck, and and I did the pitch again. (after climbing the Ancient Art in the morning then the North Chimney) I barely threw down the pitch and pulled it loose. Then rapped back down. This time super careful, and as you saw it got stuck again. BAHH it was getting dark, but I headed up the route again and couldn't make it. I bailed after 3 placements and we were forced to cut the rope on a rock. The rope was a 70 meter, and we had just barely enough to finish decent. Learning experience for more than just us I hope. Cheers
Here is a little bolt/sandstone relationship evolution:
WHen you place a bolt, or multiple bolts, on a slap or a horizontal band of rock, you set a hole into the rock for water to travel. This then allows freeze-thaw, or just plain old water-softening, of the rock at a level beneath the surface. This then makes the bolts perhaps solid, but the rock itself very suspect.
This process had no doubt happened to the hollow slab where the previous anchor was. IT is very hollow and probably wasn't so when the original anchor went in.
The section of rock I chose was based on the solidness of the stone and the angle of the rock it was in... which was essentially vertical. Clearly I could see that this was directly above the crack. However, the main use of this anchor is for getting up the rock, not down... there is already a rap anchor for double rope raps on both the south side and the north side of the tower. As this was the most solid bit of rock, I felt I had to use it. Placing the anchor on the slab would have been very irresponsible. Again, the creation of this newer, improved anchor was not to create a single rope rap but to replace the aged, weakening anchor for upward ascent.
I placed these two bolts in very hard stone that is vertical to overhanging, thus keeping most of the water from flowing into the rock. It was the best option in the given space and stone. Hopefully they will be there for a very long time.
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