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 ADVANCED
Upper Infirmary Slabs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Admission Crack T,TR 
Air Apparent T 
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 
Emergency Entrance T,TR 
Haradrim T 
IV League T,TR 
Merit Based Pay T,S 
Mūmakil T 
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 
Remission S,TR 
Submission T 

Upper Infirmary Slabs  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Nov 30, 1999
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Description 

This has several 3 star sport and trad routes. The rock and routes are similar to Yosemite. These slabs face south, and this area is nice in the cooler months. It is best to rappel routes from 2 bolt anchors at the top of each route or from trees. "Panic in the Grey Room" (5.10a) is a definite must do route, along with "Emergency Entrance" (5.6).

Getting There 

Go 5.1 miles up the canyon, use pullout on the left (best to drive a little further and turn around at the turn off to the Forest Service Ranger cabins). Infirmary Slabs (Upper and Lower) are on the north side of the road. Hike up the steep trail to the right and work your way up and past the Lower Infirmary Slabs, and continue hiking and scrambling west and north. Be careful of poison ivy as it is plentiful up here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Infirmary Slabs:
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Merit Based Pay   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Panic in the Gray Room   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Mūmakil   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Cyberchondrial Paranoia   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Featured Route For Upper Infirmary Slabs
Tomoko Jewell leading her first 5.10a.

Panic in the Gray Room 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Lyons : ... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
This is probably one of the best slab routes in the canyon....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Upper Infirmary Slabs
Comments on Upper Infirmary Slabs Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 6, 2003
I was up there two weeks ago and got rained on after getting to the top of a 7+ and going over to Panic in the Grey Room when it hit. everything got wet, and the hike down was shitty. It's hard to go around that much ivy when the rock is wet. There's a couple of ivy jumps that really suck. Have fun.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Apr 25, 2005
Anyone know what the deal is with the rocks above Upper Infermary? I made the mistake of continuing from the second set of shuts above I. V. League/Grey Room and found a wilderness of huge boulders and brush. But above that... lots more rock! Probably equal in height to the Upper Infermary wall, possibly more. The approach is pretty hairy, but it looks like there might be some interesting rock up there.
By Bernard Gillett
Apr 29, 2005
"Anyone know what the deal is with the rocks above Upper Infermary?"

Yes, several climbs have been established above Upper Infirmary Slabs. There's a leaning slab (with obvious leaning crack, 5.7) above and right (about 150') from the top of Emergency Entrance's right hand finish. Above that is a small dome with a nice 5.9 crack on its right side (short pitch, and followed by another short pitch up a thin crack). There's a larger block above that with at least one route on it: look for some shiny chains above a left-leaning crack on the east side (an old 5.9 route that had a fixed #9 hex for a rap anchor when we did it; we added a modern rappel station). Walk east a short distance from the base of the "#9 hex crack" and you come to a drop off -- the cliff below has two routes on it. Left route is a neat hand jam behind a flake (5.10), and the right one begins with an overhaning fist crack leading into a chimney. Bolt rap station on top of the wide crack allows access from above (rope up to approach the bolt station from above, or risk a 50 foot fall to an untimely death amongst boulders). The wide crack has yet to be free climbed in good style. Probably 5.12a fists at the bottom, and a 5.11 crux at the top.

It wouldn't surprise me at all to learn there have been other climbs established on that upper band of rocks above Upper Infirmary, but these are the ones I'm aware of.

Bernard Gillett=========
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Jul 11, 2005
Was up there yesterday in the height of July swelter. Much poison ivy, but avoidable. The area around the Lower slabs is overgrown and small, so we continued up to the top with much brush thrashing.

I noticed a set of shuts high on the buttress between the left and right slabs. Probably 20' above the tree for Emergency Entrance but you can't see it except from the shuts above Panic in the Grey Room. I don't see any other bolts up the buttress, but it looks like an interesting (and hard) line. Unless my heat-dazzled eyes are playing tricks on me...
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2005
I rapped down from those shuts to have a look at the central buttress. Looks way hard to me, plus there is a huge flake waiting to peel off. Perhaps whoever drilled the anchor bolts decided it wasn't worth it.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Jul 12, 2005
Parking for this crag is on the south side of the canyon exactly at milepost 28. The ascent trail is about 100' downstream.