[Hide Comment] I was up there two weeks ago and got rained on after getting to the top of a 7+ and going over to Panic in the Grey Room when it hit. everything got wet, and the hike down was shitty. It's hard to go around that much ivy when the rock is wet. There's a couple of ivy jumps that really suck. Have fun. Jun 6, 2003

[Hide Comment] Anyone know what the deal is with the rocks above Upper Infermary? I made the mistake of continuing from the second set of shuts above I. V. League/Grey Room and found a wilderness of huge boulders and brush. But above that... lots more rock! Probably equal in height to the Upper Infermary wall, possibly more. The approach is pretty hairy, but it looks like there might be some interesting rock up there. Apr 25, 2005

[Hide Comment] "Anyone know what the deal is with the rocks above Upper Infermary?"

Yes, several climbs have been established above Upper Infirmary Slabs. There's a leaning slab (with obvious leaning crack, 5.7) above and right (about 150') from the top of Emergency Entrance's right hand finish. Above that is a small dome with a nice 5.9 crack on its right side (short pitch, and followed by another short pitch up a thin crack). There's a larger block above that with at least one route on it: look for some shiny chains above a left-leaning crack on the east side (an old 5.9 route that had a fixed #9 hex for a rap anchor when we did it; we added a modern rappel station). Walk east a short distance from the base of the "#9 hex crack" and you come to a drop off -- the cliff below has two routes on it. Left route is a neat hand jam behind a flake (5.10), and the right one begins with an overhaning fist crack leading into a chimney. Bolt rap station on top of the wide crack allows access from above (rope up to approach the bolt station from above, or risk a 50 foot fall to an untimely death amongst boulders). The wide crack has yet to be free climbed in good style. Probably 5.12a fists at the bottom, and a 5.11 crux at the top.

It wouldn't surprise me at all to learn there have been other climbs established on that upper band of rocks above Upper Infirmary, but these are the ones I'm aware of.

Bernard Gillett========= Apr 29, 2005

[Hide Comment] Was up there yesterday in the height of July swelter. Much poison ivy, but avoidable. The area around the Lower slabs is overgrown and small, so we continued up to the top with much brush thrashing.

I noticed a set of shuts high on the buttress between the left and right slabs. Probably 20' above the tree for Emergency Entrance but you can't see it except from the shuts above Panic in the Grey Room. I don't see any other bolts up the buttress, but it looks like an interesting (and hard) line. Unless my heat-dazzled eyes are playing tricks on me... Jul 11, 2005

[Hide Comment] I rapped down from those shuts to have a look at the central buttress. Looks way hard to me, plus there is a huge flake waiting to peel off. Perhaps whoever drilled the anchor bolts decided it wasn't worth it. Jul 12, 2005

[Hide Comment] Parking for this crag is on the south side of the canyon exactly at milepost 28. The ascent trail is about 100' downstream. Jul 12, 2005

[Hide Comment] With all the rain and Spring run-off, the poison ivy is getting very hard to avoid. There are a few areas where it is growing in the trail. Then the first major boulder hop section has it growing all around the rocks you need to get on/over. Luckily there isn't any (that I saw) above the little groove you have to climb up. May 31, 2015

[Hide Comment] This may be a moot point with such vague photos, but can anyone ID this route for me? My buddy and I top roped it. It did have bolts. It was to the left of what I believe was Remission and another bolted 5.10 route to the right according to the guidebook.



Apr 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] Is this closed off forever? :'( Sep 11, 2021