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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,693 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

This is a fantastic offwidth lead.

Protection

Large cams up to #4 Camalot, some stoppers for crack on upper right wall. The route can be top roped from tree at the top.
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
  5.7
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
  5.7
Comparing this to the 5.6 slab climb "Community Service", the first move is definitely a little stiffer getting into the climb. The rest is a cruise, plausibly a 5.6 with the one or two 5.7 moves getting into this thing. Jun 2, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.6
Fun little route! Once you're past the steeper start, it's a cruise to the anchors. No more than 5.6. May 12, 2013
Dankasaurus
Lyons, CO
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
This is a fine and easy lead, a good intro to fist jamming (or perhaps cupped hands?), with great gear. Good small gear can be found on the right wall for the last 1/3 of the route. Bring at least 1 #4 for sure. Oct 19, 2012
"Also, this route really sucks I wouldn't give it a single star. It's offwidth, easily sucks your leg up to the knee, forcing you in and out of the crack for each move. It's just a grunt. I bashed the s%^t out of my elbow on the dihedralish face to the right."

I feel like this quote sums up offwidth climbing pretty well. For what it's worth, I'm heading back to lead it next time I'm in the Vrain. It looks pretty dope. Jun 17, 2012
retroClimber
  5.7+
retroClimber  
  5.7+
IMO the other comments about this route really sandbag it. Yeah, I'm not a great climber but I've been known to haul my ass up the occasional 5.10.

The East Slab of the Dome is 5.6. The last time I climbed the Wind Ridge on the Wind Tower (start from the tree, not direct) it was rated 5.6.

The first 40 feet of this route is WAY more difficult than any move on either of these routes. The first move is easily 5.7 plus and perhaps 5.8 when compared to the 5.8 routes at Mary's Lake in Estes or Dihedral Route on Duncans Ridge.

Also, this route really sucks I wouldn't give it a single star. It's off width, easily sucks your leg up to the knee forcing you in and out of the crack for each move. Its just a grunt. I bashed the s%^t out of my elbow on the dihedralish face to the right.

Don't bother with this route. The bolted routes here are much more enjoyable. Apr 17, 2006
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
  5.5
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
  5.5
The only hard move is getting into the crack at the bottom. In most areas this would be 5.4 or under. Mar 27, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is a fun crack - much easier than the face route to it's left. It's ridiculous to give them both a 5.7 rating! Feb 10, 2002
It is really pushing it to call this a 5.7, I thought more of a 5.5.. just my two cents. Dec 2, 2001