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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Juth, 2001. Variation - Gillett, 2002
Page Views: 368 total · 9/month
Shared By: JFM on Feb 7, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Begin at two blocks and a dead tree; traverse left to a flake and follow the right-leaning crack that splits the wide, rounded formation.

Variation - ascend the plant-filled crack. This is probably not for leading.

Location

This route is located on a rock named in Gillett's guide as "The Ellipse." To find it, approach as for Upper Infirmary Slabs, then hang a right and walk over some boulders, continuing uphill, trend left until a tunnel under a large boulder is apparent. Either crawl through the tunnel or go around to the right. Hang a left and go 40 or so feet to two large blocks and a large dead tree. The route starts here and follows the left of the two cracks (i.e., not the one with plants growing in it).

Alternately, climb Emergency Entrance, and it puts you almost at the base of this route.

Rappel from a tree with a quick-link and webbing (even better - bring along some webbing to replace the tat). A 70m rope gets you down.

Protection

Gear from tiny to BD #1 or so. Belay from a large, live tree at about 120 feet.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
The plant-filled crack variation would go on gear if cleaned of the (hardly endangered) grass in it. Could probably do it on rap.

There is an anchor on the large tree above that presently consists of a chewed up faded bit of 9/16" webbing that I wouldn't dream of a rap from and a 5mm acc cord that looks just fine. A single 1760# SWL Mallion goes through both.

It would be good to cut the crappy tat and replace it with something nicer as a second piece. Jun 3, 2015

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