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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,295 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

This is probably one of the best slab routes in the canyon. This is a fun climb that has crux moves to get going and then face and slab climbing up higher. Climb past the ring piton (crux) to a stance, clip a bolt, move up and past a horizontal to another bolt. Clip two more bolts (trending right at the last) to a two-bolt rappel anchor.

It is the second bolted route to the right of IV League. It starts in the corner next to the wide crack that is Emergency Entrance.

Protection

Six or seven bolts to the two-bolt anchor. The route can be top-roped from a 2 bolt anchor at the top.
Vaughn
Colorado
  5.10+ PG13
Vaughn   Colorado
  5.10+ PG13
The description seems wrong. There is no piton on this route and no cracks or seams that would take one.

This route is a bit dangerous for the leader. There is groundfall potential near the second bolt and you have to clip from an insecure position. Very fun but spicy. May 8, 2017
Great route! Oct 16, 2016
Cocanower
The High Country
Cocanower   The High Country
Wow, that's a hard slab for 10a. Feb 3, 2015
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fantastic route that will keep you thinking almost the whole way. Bolt placement is a bit scary, definitely don't miss your second clip as the ground will definitely get you. And hey Tomoko. If that is truly your first 5.10a lead, big congrats! Not a climb that most people would pick or could do for that matter first time out at that grade. Probably closer to 5.10b anyways. Jun 1, 2009
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10+ R
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10+ R
You would hit the rib of rock if you blow the second bolt. The climbing is very good, but several bolts were poorly placed for me. It is a good toprope, but I had more success on the "10d" to the left. I'd give it another star if the second bolt were lower. Feb 10, 2009
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
I agree that this climb is temperature dependent. I climbed it on a cool overcast day in February and it wasn't that bad, and certainly easier than "Acts of Contrition" on the Lower Slabs. Many of the bolts are a bit reachy, which certainly adds to the excitement level and makes it feel more difficult.

Watch out getting to the second bolt, if you were to blow that clip you might hit the boulder behind the start. Feb 25, 2008
Shibby
Denver, Co
 
Shibby   Denver, Co
 
An absolute must do, my all time personal favorite slab lead. It’s thin, sustained, and wonderful. Jul 9, 2007
Bo Johnston
  5.10b
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b
I'd kick in 10b/c. This route was killer and spicy on lead. I wouldn't recommend trying this on hot/warmer days 'cause ya need the rubber to work. Much harder than most other slab route I've climbed (ie: Crest Jewel, North Dome, YNS) Sep 18, 2005
J. Elsasser  
 
Great climb to scare the crap out of you if your a apspiring Slab Master. It makes your think and be on your toes until the last 20 ft or so. Lead this about 5 years ago. Scary lead. :) Aug 18, 2005
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b
Yea this would be a pretty sick lead, we TR'd it. I've followed 10b's in Eldo easier and less sustained than this. Think microcrimp for 70'...and you'll be fine. Jul 20, 2005
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
Mama Mia that's a spicy slab route! From the bottom, I'd assumed the crux was the steepest part, right off the deck. Wrong-o! It starts hard and stays hard until about 20' from the top. Route-finding (if you can call it that) is key and you've got to get pretty close to see all the dime-edge holds you'll be doing pull-ups on. Doing it in 90+ degree heat made me nice and flexible, it's true, but my fingertips are blistered and my nails are [eroded] down to nothing. Yow! Jul 11, 2005
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I recently did Upside the Cranium on Monkey Skull and Panic in the Grey Room felt harder. Lower angle, but fewer holds. Just my vote, for what it's worth ... Jun 20, 2005
Super awesome climb... a series of "finger nail cleans" and lots of balance. I topped this and fell once but, I blame that on the hot rock melting the soles of my shoes off... (do I get points for creativity on that excuse?) I plan to return and lead this with better shoes and in cooler weather. I'd say this is more like a 10c sport slab, because of the sustained crimps and micro-toes. Worth the 10-15 minute hike uphill. Jul 13, 2002
I'm going to have to chime in here since I started the comment thread. Yea, this route is probably " a little bit " under rated but in my personal grading scale is at most 10c/d. There aren't any slopers as Tony might suggest, just razor clean edges, some of the best I've ever laid finger on (but they are small). This is my "Gold" standard route for a fun moderate slab on the Front Range. An absolute must do at least once (since the approach is HIDEOUS for a route this short, or I'd be doing this climb once a month :-) ! ) Jun 28, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
In the summer, when this south-facing slab is hot enough to fry an egg on, this route could be near impossible!

Even when cool I agree it seemed harder than 10a, it is quite sustained. I backed off leading this sucker, if you have gear you can lead up "Emergency Entrance" and TR this route. I suppose you could also get to the top via I.V. League. Jun 28, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Don't kid a kidder. And don't sandbag a....

10a? OK, admittedly slab on slopers and chips is my weakness, and maybe it was the 90+ degree heat... but I'd say that this climb is a lot harder than 5.10a. Either that or I just fell off of a 5.10a.... Nah, my fragile ego can't handle that- must be harder. (snicker) The route is good fun, but my feet were crying bloody murder up top.

I also did find that near the second-to-last bolt is was much easier to step to the right and finish to the right than it was to stay left. I made it that way without falling. Jun 27, 2002
This is a great slab route with well placed protection and it will give your calves a workout. I agree with Old Fart that the rating might be a bit on the low side. Feb 12, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Wow, this is a sustained pitch! Should be mandatory training for all aspiring slab masters. Great rock and (often) nice and warm in the winter. Feb 11, 2002
One of the best slab routes anywhere! Talk about "'nuttin but dimes" this route edges up perfect rock and definatly seemed a bit harder then 10a (and I love slabs!) A great calf workout;I just wish it was a full pitch long. Dec 31, 2001