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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mason Frischette, Scott Woodruff
Page Views: 1,128 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jan 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a two-pitch route with two very different pitches. Pitch one climbs a steep hand-crack up to a ledge (with a bit of junky rock at the start to get to the good stuff) and then traverses the ledge to the left for about twenty feet (5.9). The second pitch goes up a thin flake to the top (5.7). You'll notice that the belay position below the second pitch is only about ten feet above the ground and a short section of 5.8 would get you to the same spot.

Location

This route is on a formation called the Footstool. It's up and right from most of the routes on Upper Infirmary. The thin crack of the second pitch can be seen from below and could serve as a useful navigation aid. We approached by climbing Mumakil and then scrambling left and down a little from there. The start of the route is to the left of a large, flat boulder.

Descend by downclimbing a third-class slab to the climber's right.

Protection

Standard rack. An extra #1 and #2 Camalot would be useful for the first pitch. Stoppers and small cams are useful on the second.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The thin flake on P2 protects well in blue/green Aliens or equiv. Take a few of each.

As well, the belay atop P1 is on 2-3" cams, so take a few of those BEYOND that needed to protect P1 or the belay is going to be a tough one. Not much alternative there.

I'd give it more stars were it longer. Jun 3, 2015
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
 
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
 
Checked this out yesterday on a nice day in the Vrain. First pitch is cool, bottom section is a little crappy and had some loose flakes in there, but was able to place gear off of them. The jams on the upper section are sweet. Definitely a couple extra #1s and #2s, unless you're solid at the grade, as I am not. Pitch 2 climbs a nice, thin crack up the slabby face on smaller gear. It is a fun short pitch as well. Feb 17, 2013