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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,486 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: CLOSED - PRIVATE PROPERTY. This entire area is on private property and is closed. Details


This is a great, moderately-rated, slab/face route.


Quickdraws for the bolts, this route can be toproped from the 2 bolt anchor at the top.
This route is a total sandbag and has serious goundfall potential for a true 5.7 leader! I'd have given this route 3 bombs if I could have! Dec 31, 2001
The route is a bit of a thinker, but the moves are no harder than 7+ if you stay a fuzz right of the bolt line. And the bolt placement wasn't horrible. Just gotta know how to climb slab, my man. Could be worse - could be Point of Rocks, Texas. 80-90 foot 5.9 slab pitches on 2 rusted 1/4" bolts to manky homemmade anchors. Eep. Feb 8, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I agree with Old Fart, this route is friggin' desperate for a 5.7! It would be madness to recommend this to a newby 5.7 leader. Getting to the first bolt is quite technical (for 5.7), but even if you slide off you probably would just skid down onto the starting boulder (hopefully). After that, I thought it was very well protected, but the crux move after the third bolt has gotta be at least 5.8 (in my humble opinion)! This face is considerably harder than the crack to its right (Emergency Entrance). Feb 10, 2002
I have to agree with George that this route is under rated. A 5.8 rating is more appropriate. Feb 12, 2002
Re: Dave's comments. Slabs are my speciality and I love runout slabs; I grew up climbing ALL the great Apron "Death Climbs" in the Valley back in the '70s so I do know what I'm talking about. Try "Deep Throut's" 3rd pitch; 150'of very sustained 5.9 with one 1/4" at 75'off the belay which is also a single 1/4". Remmision is an OK climb for a skilled climber to set a toprope for some friends to jump on but to call this an "Easy or Moderate" climb for a new leader just out of the gym or used to areas like with "Beginner Friendly" bolting like the "Monastery" is inviting an accident. I climbed the route mostly left of the bolts because it seemed I could have clipped several of them out of the crack climb to the right(Admission),so maybe that upped my rating beacuse I thought it in the 5.8+ vs area. Actually, deliberatly or not , I and many of my friends feel that ALL! of the Infirmary routes ,upper and particularly lower, are massively sandbagged more so at the moderate grades. As another prominent poster to this site always says "Apply the Gold Standard". Feb 14, 2002
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
This thing 'looks' about 5.7 from the ground but I was definitely sweating a bit once I got to the bulge. It's thin and I would have to agree that 5.7 is a tad light. The offwidth to the right was much easier for me. Feb 21, 2002
Sheesh, I didn't mean to start a firestorm or offend anyone. I just don't think we really need to apply Monastery or Sport Park grading everywhere we climb. But then again, my first leads were at Donner Summit, CA (not known for soft grading) and my first 5.6 lead in Colorado was Calypso, and first 5.7 was Bastille Crack. That's what the guidebooks called 'em, and I'm not going to argue. Same with Remission. Mar 1, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
OK, I admit, slabs are my weakness- my achillies heal- especially when you are dealing with chunky granite as well. I guess that it all looks like it will break off to me. I'm better off on the Flatiron sandstone. Anyway, I have climbed a lot of slabs. A good lot. Some from 5.2 to 5.11.

I don't climb at the Monastery or Sport Park, but I've done 450+ routes in Eldo, 100 in the Flatirons, and about 200 in Boulder Canyon. I can say with absolute certainty that most of the routes I have done are harder than 5.7, but not necessarily harder than this slab, at least not with my belly to the bolts or to the left (I did not go way right).

5.7? Sheesh, uh, guys, it is not 5.7 in my book. It was harder going left than right, and I went left on the first have-at-it. I felt like there was a single 5.10 move with what I did, but I probably missed a hold or something.

-T. Jun 27, 2002
Hey, fun lead, a bit sandbagged. Not a dangerous climb if you ask me. Not that you did, but, you just have to know how to climb slabs, and more importantly "fall" safely on slabs. I bad lead fall probably wouldn't constitute more than a little rock rash. I led slightly right of the 3rd bolt, but went back and topped it to the left. It's easier to the right. I don't consider myself a great climber and I'd put the climb at a 5.8, but, I should also tell you that I have a long reach, my partners don'at always agree with my ratings. You can stand safely balanced just about anywhere up the route... so for less experienced leaders "Don't PANIC". Of course, there is the calf burn issue, and... in the dead heat of summer.... climb QUICK! Jul 13, 2002
Here's one reason why these comments are so valuable. Whether it's truly 5.7 or not, the consensus is it could be much harder, and therefore not a great lead for a 5.7 leader. That's helpful information. If I had read these comments before I had tried to lead this route, I wouldn't have bothered -- 20 foot falls, even on bolts, do not thrill me. For the record, I thought the early moves harder than 5.7. Aug 7, 2002
I have climbed this route a few times now, and I feel it is well worth the effort (I love slabs though). 5.7 *might* be a little light rating, but it's very doable, everything is actually pretty solid as far as slabs go. If you want fear and loathing, try 'Panic in the Grey Room' which is the bolted slab face to the right of Remission. It's listed as 9+/10a. It is *definitely* a 5.10 route, super thin and very demanding. I have yet to lead it, I generally lead the 5.7 crack to the right of it and which shares the bolt anchors at the top. Sep 11, 2002
This was an [exhilarating] face climb. [Definitely] harder than 5.7, but there is enough working room on the face to make it 5.7 like wandering over to the crack to the right, then wandering back to the left..... the first bolt can be clipped to protect that weird high step move to get onto the slab. Being about a 5.7 climber it made me feel much better. [The] runouts were not that bad either because they were on easy terrain. May 31, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
This is a good [finale] for an evening in this area. This route is good, but not great and I agree it is a bit sandbagged. Depending on which side of the bolts you go, this route could be anywhere from 5.8 to 5.10. It will make you think, but the angle is not that severe and sustained as Panic in the Gray lead. Jul 20, 2005
Bo Johnston
Bo Johnston  
Fun route with an excellent and well protected crux about half way up. I did need to hold onto the crack on the right once on the way up but it seemed to be on at that point. Jan 11, 2006
Jason Anderson    
I felt this route was 5.9 by going right into the dihedral at the steep part. The initial step up also felt at least 5.8+.

I climb 5.11 face, 5.10 crack, and 5.10 slab. Slabs scare me, but partly due to runouts. I climb at a lot of sport areas, but maybe 15% trad at Eldo and nearby places. Sep 4, 2006
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
The low angle of this slab is misleading, along with the posted 5.7 rating. I really enjoyed the climb but questioned why there such was a runout, even if it was on easier terrain (it looks like it would be a really ugly fall). Not recommended for 5.7 leaders. Oct 21, 2007
Boulder CO
RockinGal   Boulder CO
If you know how to climb slab, this is a good route. Thought provoking for a few moves. I led it to the right of the bolts, though not in the crack. My partner led it to the left of the bolts. Definitely harder than the 5.8+ in Gillett's guide (rated 5.7 here) next to the 5.6 farther left. Mar 26, 2011
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
I didn't mind the runout at the top as much, but this, like most of the other routes in the area, has a stupid high first bolt, and the move getting to it isn't trivial for the grade. Jun 28, 2011
Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
I'd suggest a small TCU in the horizontal crack below the first bolt (unclip the rope from that after you've clipped the first bolt), and a #3.5-4 Camalot with a long sling after the 3rd bolt, placed in the big crack to the right. Yeah, I guess the run-out doesn't bother some people, but I don't like it so much. Mar 31, 2012
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
Call me a wimp and someone used to Boulder Canyon grading, but I'd give this 5.10. My partner who likes slab and like me leads easier 5.10 routes AND loves slab, bailed off this one. I led it, it was challenging slab climbing, only made easier by the low angle. Of course, then I was worried about all the rash which would result if I fell between the fairly widely spaced bolts (for a 5.7 route!). Groundfall potential before the first bolt too - not great for a 5.7 lead.

A 60m rope will "barely" reach the bottom of the detached slab below the route. Be VERY careful how far back you stand if you are lowering someone and definitely pull to the halfway mark if you are going to rap. Tie those end knots both for rap and on the belayer end of the rope!

There are huge slabs to sit/stand on below the route. Bring your BBQ! Pretty exposed though, so bring the your beach umbrellas too. ;)

As a 5.10 route, I think it's quite good. Had me really concerned about cheesegrating, but there was just enough there that I didn't think I'd have to bail. Good slab practice to build our confidence. Enjoy! Jun 28, 2012
Lyons, CO
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
To the BoCan dude Hiro who rates this a 5.10: You are indeed a major pussy. Go back to Tonnere Tower. Oct 19, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
To paraphrase Oscar Wilde: "Cynicism is the [first] recourse of an unimaginative mind". An initial TR burn on Remission may be a good idea if you feel unsure of the stances. Once you know where to step, it feels roughly 5.8+/5.9. Panic in the Grey Room is loads more technical, thin! Oct 29, 2012
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
The crux is so very tense...3 stars for all of the swears I muttered while committing myself to those moves. The bolts are exactly where you need them, just move thoughtfully (and I'm the kind of person that wishes every route had an extra bolt or two). May 25, 2014
Travis Provin
Boulder CO
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
Ben Boykin has a great suggestion if you want to protect this route even more. A small Alien below the first bolt and a #3 or 4 BD cam about halfway up in the big crack. However, with just the bolts, this route is pretty safe.

On a lighter note, it's a damn fun route! My favorite of the day, such awesome moves on tiny holds. Aug 30, 2016
Mike D
Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
Mike D   Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
I almost sent this clean today but wussed out at the third bolt and grabbed it before I attached a draw to it. Otherwise, fun and thought-provoking moves on good stone. This felt like 5.8 to me. My standards for slab routes are Walk On The Wild Side (5.7+) at Joshua Tree and Snake Dike (5.7) in Yosemite. There were a couple of moves on this route that were harder single moves than on those routes, but it was less spicy of a lead than either. Mar 17, 2018
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9 PG13
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9 PG13
Nice climbing. Risky getting to first bolt -- if in doubt stick clip or place a small cam under the opening roof. Pretty sure the only solutions to the crux above the "eyebrow" crack near bolt 3 are at least 5.9, unless one goes off route to use the big crack (Admission) on the right. May 10, 2018

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