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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: T. Davinroy, Bernard Gillett, Baker RAP students, 2002
Page Views: 4,654 total, 30/month
Shared By: Charles Danforth on Apr 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I haven't been able to find any info on this obvious and clearly well-established route. If anyone knows....

This is an obvious slab route up the westernmost (leftmost) buttress on the Upper Infirmary Slabs. The route is pretty moderate but sustained at the 5.6ish level. Bolts are spaced about six feet apart with the first no more than six feet off the deck making this an ideal first slab lead. Staying to the left edge yields a nice pure-slab climb while staying right allows you to use an obvious, shallow crack system. The layout and sheer number of bolts suggests that there may even be two lines here. Seems strange given that the buttress is less than ten feet wide!

Protection

Eight or nine closely-spaced bolts to a two-bolt and chain anchor.

Per outdooreric: plus a 0.75-1.5 inch cam.
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
  5.5
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
  5.5
This route is perfect for someone who is either breaking into leading or someone who is unfamiliar with slab technique. The bolts are pretty close together, the granite is textured and wonderful. I can't recommend this hard enough.

I did not notice that the chain anchors were loose in May 2014. Jun 2, 2014
Austin Black  
 
I did this route as my second slab lead and I would recommend it to any new leader. Plenty of great introductory smearing. The bolt spacing is excellent. The chain anchors were a little loose on March 16, 2013 Mar 18, 2013
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
 
Fun routes up both sides of the rock. The bolted line on the left is a great lead, especially for those who are just beginning. Very well bolted for one who is climbing near their limit. The line on the right is good as well, a fun mix of gear and bolts. 5.8+ it is not though IMO. Compared to Remission (5.7) just down the wall, I found this to be much easier and straightforward. Only one hard move in getting over the first horizontal crack. Mar 2, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Really fun route! Especially for an area where a 5.8 route in the book climbs like a 5.10! This is really fun! My friend and I who can lead 5.10 (not SSV .10) really enjoyed leading this one; it's easy enough that for us on TR it would have been boring. So I'd call this a great route for a new leader on slab, your slab warmup or end of day route.

Concerning the cam, I put in a 1.5 Helium, but primarily for practice placing gear, I would have been comfortable continuing to the next bolt. If you want to maintain really close/consistent spacing of protection, then you'll want the cam. Your stronger leader could place the cam and leave it for the newer leader to clip if that appeals. Jun 28, 2012
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
 
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
 
Anchors are good on March 17, 2012. Ticks are out already, watch for those little boogers. This climb and the one to the right are real fun, good easy slabbin' in the Vrain on a nice day. Bolt placements are perfect. Mar 17, 2012
JFM
  5.6
JFM  
  5.6
Anchor bolts seemed fine today, 6/3/11. Jun 3, 2011
Ben Somogyi
Erie, CO
 
Ben Somogyi   Erie, CO
 
Just an FYI, we were up there this past weekend and the two hangers at the top of the climb are now spinners. Thanks for bolting the route Bernard, it was a fun route for a new leader. May 17, 2010
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
Confirm, 8 lead bolts plus a 0.75-1.5 inch cam. Feb 8, 2008
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
 
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
 
Thanks for the info (and all the bolts), Bernard. Good to know that my intuition was correct and that there are two lines here. Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with lots of bolts making life easier for novice leaders such as myself. Thanks! In a canyon full of hard-man routes, Upper [Infirmary] is a great crag with lots of climbs at or slightly above my level....

Charles Danforth Apr 25, 2005
I'm responsible for the bolts on this route. At present, it doesn't have an official name (listed as "Little Flatiron Left: 5.6" in my ongoing guide project). 8 bolts is what I remember, in 90 feet -- cams can be placed at a couple horizontal cracks if desired.After the decision was made to bolt it, I decided to make it a comfortable lead for a 5.6 climber, rather than a comfortable lead for a 5.10 climber.

Yes, there are two lines here ("Little Flatiron Right: 5.8+" is the other one). Clip the first three bolts of the left line, gear at a horizontal, then one more bolt at a 5.8+ bulge, and then follow an easy crack (gear) to a final bolt, and end at the same anchor.

My apologies if you thought there were too many bolts (or that the routes were too close). I figured the climbs were nice enough that it was worth it to bolt them in a style that 5.6 - 5.8 climbers would find safe.

Bernard Gillett Apr 24, 2005