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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,776 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice offwidth which is a bit tougher than Admission Crack. It is more flared and tougher to protect.

Protection

Large cams (up to #5 Camalot), this route can be toproped from the tree (which may not have slings) in the crack up above.

Photos

JFM
 
JFM  
 
As of 3-11-12, the switch a route problem has been resolved! Thanks, Area Admins! Mar 11, 2012
Greg Speer
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Greg Speer   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
It appears that MP has "Emergency Entrance" and "I.V. League" reversed. According to Hubbel's and Gillett's guidebooks, I.V. League is the offwidth to the left of Cyberchondrial Paranoia and Emergency Entrance is the dihedral/flake to the right of Panic in the Grey Room. MP has it backwards. Jun 2, 2010
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
 
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
 
Yesterday, there were no slings on the tree to rap from. I continued up higher then had to downclimb a couple moves to get to Panic in the Gray Room's anchors. Be prepared to do the same or move out just below the tree and go up 15 feet of unprotected slab. The tree although its big enough, doesn't seem to be that securely rooted. I wouldn't recommend setting a TR off of just the tree alone.

I did find a #3.5 and #4 Camalot to be useful and you could go bigger if you wanted. By climbing left side in, the climb is quite easy for 5.7. Feb 25, 2008
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
  5.7
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
  5.7
Interesting. The Classic Lyons Area guide (also by Hubbel) lists this route (the annoying flaring crack of extreme purple toenails) as Emergency Entrance while the far-right flake system is I.V. League.Either way, the latter is much more fun, whatever the name. Jul 11, 2005
nick moeckel
  5.7
nick moeckel  
  5.7
On 7/10/05 I replaced the worst of the slingage and added a rap ring.

This was probably my least favorite climb at the crag. The interesting part is pretty short. Jul 11, 2005
Andy Leach
Denver, CO
Andy Leach   Denver, CO
Isn't the photo above of I.V. League? That's what my guidebook seems to indicate (Front Range Crags by Peter Hubbel). Hubbel's book calls the crack/flake system to the right of the bolted route (Panic in the Gray Room) Emergency Entrance. Jul 11, 2005
The rap slings are still in questionable shape as of mid April, 2005. I would have replaced one or two but was afraid I'd vomit on them after leading the damn climb.. It's not too hard to scramble right to Panic's anchors for a rap or wicked slab toprope session.-s Apr 29, 2005
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
  5.7
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
  5.7
Tough climb, but crack jamming is not my forte. My pointy shoes got horrendously stuck on several moves.

FYI: the slings at the top of this route are pretty badly frayed or even cut. Bring your own to rap with or traverse 15' right and rap from the shuts above the 5.10 slab. Apr 24, 2005
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is a fun crack, and I would not call it an offwidth. There is good hand jamming through the crux. It is however somewhat awkward, polished and slippery. You do not need any pro larger than a #3.5 Camalot, and in fact the crux section is #2 Camalot or smaller. Feb 10, 2002