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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett, 2002
Page Views: 2,093 total, 18/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on May 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This slab route is on left side of Upper Infirmary Slab (before you get to Western or Left Infirmary) and shares the first three bolts with Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress). At the horizontal break just above the third bolt, traverse slightly right and clip a fourth bolt. The crux (5.6+/5.7-) is gaining the thin crack above the 4th bolt. Continue up the crack, as it opens up to thin-hands, placing gear to the fifth and final bolt. The top shares the same anchor as Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress).

Protection

5 bolts plus small stoppers or small Aliens down low in the crack to finger to thin hand-sized pro (to a #0.75 Camalot) up higher.

There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top.

Location

Per Dave Holliday: This route is on the left side of of Upper Infirmary Slab (but not clear over at Left Infirmary Slab, called "Western Infirmary" in the latest guidebook). Rappel about 60-90 feet from a bolted rappel anchor.

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tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.7+
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.7+
Cool climb, protects well with small gear in the crack and a hand size up higher. Dec 12, 2016
AlanJ
Longmont, CO
 
AlanJ   Longmont, CO
 
The bolts are loose at the top. The spacing in fantastic. Aug 4, 2014
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
  5.7
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
  5.7
I left the wires on the ground and definitely wanted them in the first half of the crack.
More fun than the left route, I think. May 25, 2014
I thought the move to gain the thin crack; as the crux move, was certainly harder then anything on Community Service. If that is what we are basing the grading on, then Merit Based Pay is harder. I felt that Community Service was more sustained for a 5.6 grade. The crimps at the top headwall of Merit are pretty cool. Jun 17, 2012
Rich Kelly
Boulder
  5.8+
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.8+
I agree with Gillett's guidebook rating of 8+ (at the 4th bolt) as it felt at least 2 number grades harder than Community Service. I liked this climb better than Community Service as it had more variety of climbing. May 27, 2012
This route is already in the database as "Little Flatiron Right". The route was added before the new South Saint Vrain guidebook was out and the actual name of the route was known. Jan 19, 2011
slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
Hmmm, maybe the difficulty was similar, but on this route the bolt is at your head (as opposed to below your feet) when doing the crux? Seemed like there was only one minor 'step-up' sort of move on this route, but Remission was more sustained(?).

I actually didn't think this one was much harder than the 5.6 to the left, other than the single step-up move. Jan 19, 2011
slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
This one seemed quite a bit easier than Remission, over to the right. Fun little route, worth doing if you are in the area. Jan 18, 2011