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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Marc Hemmes and John Calderera, 2008
Page Views: 2,618 total · 25/month
Shared By: Marc Hemmes on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

AKA: Battery B.

This is a great pitch with a focus on overhanging fists and wider.

Find the beautiful, overhanging, splitter crack and launch immediately into the crux. It's rattly fists and wider through the crux and into a great rest. Continue up an easy chimney until you're stopped by a flared roof that continues out right. This is the awkward lesser-crux. Fight through this flare, clip the chains and lower to the base.

If you're not up for the lead, this line is easily toproped off fixed anchors above.

Location [Suggest Change]

From Panic in the Gray Room: to get to the base, trend right and up to find a not so obvious gully that leads to start of this crack. Or to rap in, find your way through boulders and slabs until there's a big licheny slab to your left. Now look downhill at the edge of the cliff for the anchors. Rap 50 feet.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A standard rack with an emphasis on #3-4.5 Camalots.

Photos

Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
What is the climb on the left all about? Besides metal, obviously.... May 18, 2010
slim    
One on the left is mid 10, can't remember the name off hand though... something like Rumadrum or something like that (?) May 18, 2010
Harrison Dreves
Denver, Colorado
 
Harrison Dreves   Denver, Colorado
 
A note of the approach: as of July 2017, there are a few cairns marking the approach to this from Panic in the Grey Room. From the base of Panic, cross the boulderfield to the right, and look for the first cairn. Follow the next few cairns up an right, around a large boulder, and up through a small cave slot on its back side. (No more cairns after this.) This will put you on the grassy ledge (with a few slab steps) that lead up to Haradrim and Mumakil.

A note on protection: I would also suggest either a #5 or #6 Camalot for the upper section of the climb. A final #4 Camalot protects the move out of the chimney onto the slab. Jul 3, 2017
rkrum
Here and There
 
rkrum   Here and There
 
Dang. This did not disappoint. Excellent "rattly fist crack". The value per vertical foot gained is of such quality I have rarely seen this side of the Wyoming state line. Feb 18, 2018

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