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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,224 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a most awesome route, very reminescent of Yosemite. Start to the right of Panic in the Gray Room, and work up the slab and dihedral using stemming, then move into a crack/lieback. Then you can either go straight up the nice, thin, hollow flake, or better yet lieback/undercling and traverse around it. It is a damn shame this route is not several pitches, otherwise it would be an area classic.

Protection

Stoppers, hexes, tricams, and cams up to #3 Camalot. This route can be toproped from the 2 bolts at the top of Panic in the Gray Room, but if you top rope it, place some pro or be aware of the slight pendulum.

Photos

tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.6
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.6
Cool little lead, the flakes up top are awesome! Dec 12, 2016
Amy Langley
  5.7
Amy Langley  
  5.7
The start of this climb is definitely not a 5.5, I rated the route 5.7 with lots of stars; it's a fun climb!

Do be careful protecting the edge of the lower flake (the first you come to) that curves climbers left. I found it best to put a placement underneath and climb up to where this flake thickens out just before reaching the dodgy overhead flake before adding another piece. The overhead flake, as you will see, is just about completely hollow and best avoided at this point. Your belayer will appreciate the consideration! Apr 11, 2016
Mathias
Loveland, CO
  5.7
Mathias   Loveland, CO
  5.7
I really enjoyed this route when I first did it (hastily and as it started raining), so I had to come back and get on it again. I found getting established in the dihedral to be the crux and enjoyed as much as the first time.

I'm not sure why people are calling this a 5.4 or 5.5, unless they were climbing on top of the column rather than the dihedral itself. Apr 9, 2016
JFM
JFM  
As of 3-11-12, the switch a route problem has been resolved! Thanks, Area Admins! Mar 11, 2012
Greg Speer
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Greg Speer   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
It appears that MP has "Emergency Entrance" and "I.V. League" reversed. According to Hubbel's and Gillette's guidebooks I.V. League is the offwidth to the left of Cyberchondrial Paranoia and Emergency Entrance is the dihedral/flake to the right of Panic in the Grey Room. MP has it backwards. Jun 2, 2010
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.6
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.6
Climbed this tonight. Use this route to set up TR for next route to the left. Not a whole lot of meat on this bone, but the final flake is kinda cool to huck up and around. I wouldn't even call that (7) though. Jul 20, 2005
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
  5.6
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
  5.6
Nice route and my first lead in almost two years. Definitely not a 5.7 but an enjoyable and varied route regardless with a little of everything, chimneying off the deck, a dihedral, a flake and some friction slab. With a 60m rope you can continue from the first set of cold-shuts up a nice slab to a second set of shuts. Rap in two stages back down; the walk-off (if you can call it that) is roundly aweful. Apr 24, 2005
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
  5.6
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
  5.6
Fun, but short. Climbs through two huge hollow flakes. Mar 27, 2003
Ripley Casdorph  
  5.4
I thought this was the down climb for gray room. The only cool moves were the two steps at the top for the layback. Mar 9, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
I think it's all relative, but at a moderate grade, it is fun and worth the effort. 3stars? Not in my book, but not a bomb either. One or two stars, depending on what you are used to. Weighing it in versus other climbs in the immediate area of similar length, it is good. 2 stars by the local metric, one compared to what else is available in colorado.

Some of the possible placements are in a flake that might expand. Be careful. Oct 21, 2002
This route is barely one star, despite the glowing write-up. This route is useful to get a top rope on the nearby bolted face. Otherwise, it is hard to get too excited about this route. It is also more like 5.5 than 5.7. Oct 21, 2002
Such a beautiful pitch, even in the middle of a thunderstorm! Definitely three stars (or five or six) and worth the hike. long runners are a good thing! Feb 8, 2002