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Fred Gomez setting up for the crux moves
Typical Situation is another one of the neglected routes around the left side of the buttress. This seldom done route features top quality white sandstone with just the right amount of edges to make it possible.
Breeze through the first three bolts on crisp edges. Take your last breath before entering a powerful, tenuous crux. If you exhale you could compromise your core tension and be sent sailing! After making an extremely powerful deadpoint to a vertical slot paw desperately to find a hidden foot hold. An 18 inch tick mark wonít save you here. Itís probably best to let your belayer verbally guide you toward the foot hold. Slap desperately and move quickly past the fourth bolt. A series of thrilling highstep and backstep foot movements take you to jugs in the roof.
Traverse 10 feet to the left and execute the redpoint crux around the roof. Campus through on jugs to get your feet established on the finishing face. Donít forget that all routes at the NRG end at the top of the cliff, whether it means climbing through lichen, a waterfall, or spider webs as thick as fishing line. With that said enjoy twenty feet of 5.8 adventure climbing to the chains.
Starts atop a ledge on the left side of the buttress. Second route from the left since the new addition of arete route on left.
7 Bolts + anchor
The crux through to a right hand vertical slot