I've always found this route to have fun, varied climbing and at a moderate grade. There's good climbing in the big chimney via a variety of jams with good feet and ample gear. Going to the first set of anchors is most popular, at 5.9 but you can continue to a second set of anchors at 5.10. A few bolts protect the top of this pitch and it's 130 feet to the upper anchors.
This route climbs the crack system in the large chimney left of Conrad Anker's bolted 5.11+ face, Electrica, which is 30-40 feet left of Cherry Crack.
Double set of cams to gold Camalot with singles in the smallest sizes. Two ropes if going to the high anchor.
|Comments on Tales of Flails
|By Rob Duncan|
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 23, 2010
the pitch to the first anchors goes at really fun 5.9