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Tales of Flails 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Tainio, B. Stolp - June 24, 1981
Page Views: 2,839
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 19, 2007

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Description 

I've always found this route to have fun, varied climbing and at a moderate grade. There's good climbing in the big chimney via a variety of jams with good feet and ample gear. Going to the first set of anchors is most popular, at 5.9 but you can continue to a second set of anchors at 5.10. A few bolts protect the top of this pitch and it's 130 feet to the upper anchors.


Location 

This route climbs the crack system in the large chimney left of Conrad Anker's bolted 5.11+ face, Electrica, which is 30-40 feet left of Cherry Crack.


Protection 

Double set of cams to gold Camalot with singles in the smallest sizes. Two ropes if going to the high anchor.



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By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 23, 2010

the pitch to the first anchors goes at really fun 5.9