This is the prominent crack to the right of Cave Route. It starts in a small-hands splitter and moves up through two broken cracks to great arete climbing. Folks most often protect in the small crack and climb the arete.
You could also choose to weasel around in the offwidth crack, but that makes for some difficulty reaching the chain anchors at the top of the pitch.
Super fun route. Some great strength and technique moves with a great view.
Just about any cam on your rack will fit in this beauty. Make sure you have some #1s for the beginning, some #2s in the middle and some smaller stuff for the top. There is a great spot for a blue TCU in the small crack at the top of the pitch and a #3 comes in handy too.
The anchors are bomber bolts with chains.
Watch your rope when you pull; I've seen a few folks get their lines stuck in this crack.
|By B Roth|
From: st george, ut
Apr 11, 2009
for a harder and interesting variation try climbing the last 20 feet using only the thin crack on the right, I think it goes at about 11c this way
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A great and varied climb. Splitter hands finishing with quality, well-protected funkiness. Gear from small TCUs to #3 camalot.