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Cerberus Gendarme
Routes Sorted
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Cave Route T 
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Dire Wolf T 
Electrica T,S 
Fails of Power T 
Fat Hedral, The T 
Flip of a Coin T 
Intruder T 
Mean High Tide T 
No Holds Barred T 
Scarlet Begonias T 
Squeeze Play T 
Tales of Flails T,S 
Touchstone Wall T 

Squeeze Play 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Weiss, Billy Westbay, Larry Derby - March 1975
Page Views: 5,677
Submitted By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Tony Moser leading Squeeze Play

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the prominent crack to the right of Cave Route. It starts in a small-hands splitter and moves up through two broken cracks to great arete climbing. Folks most often protect in the small crack and climb the arete.

You could also choose to weasel around in the offwidth crack, but that makes for some difficulty reaching the chain anchors at the top of the pitch.

Super fun route. Some great strength and technique moves with a great view.

Protection 

Just about any cam on your rack will fit in this beauty. Make sure you have some #1s for the beginning, some #2s in the middle and some smaller stuff for the top. There is a great spot for a blue TCU in the small crack at the top of the pitch and a #3 comes in handy too.

The anchors are bomber bolts with chains.

Watch your rope when you pull; I've seen a few folks get their lines stuck in this crack.


Photos of Squeeze Play Slideshow Add Photo
The Start
The Start
Squeeze Play
Squeeze Play
me leading my first sand stone crack.
me leading my first sand stone crack.
Joy on Squeeze Play
Joy on Squeeze Play
Lisa Pritchett leading Squeeze Play 5.10a
Lisa Pritchett leading Squeeze Play 5.10a
Squeeze play.  Thin hands to offwidth and tight fi...
Squeeze play. Thin hands to offwidth and tight fi...
Squeezin'
Squeezin'
R Shore on Squeeze Play
R Shore on Squeeze Play
Decisions, decisions... Climber: Levi Call Photo: ...
Decisions, decisions... Climber: Levi Call Photo: ...

Comments on Squeeze Play Add Comment
Show which comments
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Apr 11, 2009

for a harder and interesting variation try climbing the last 20 feet using only the thin crack on the right, I think it goes at about 11c this way
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A great and varied climb. Splitter hands finishing with quality, well-protected funkiness. Gear from small TCUs to #3 camalot.