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Cerberus Gendarme
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Fat Hedral, The T 
Flip of a Coin T 
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Mean High Tide T 
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Squeeze Play T 
Tales of Flails T 
Touchstone Wall T 

Squeeze Play 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Weiss, Billy Westbay, Larry Derby - March 1975
Page Views: 7,535
Submitted By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Tony Moser leading Squeeze Play

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the prominent crack to the right of Cave Route. It starts in a small-hands splitter and moves up through two broken cracks to great arete climbing. Folks most often protect in the small crack and climb the arete.

You could also choose to weasel around in the offwidth crack, but that makes for some difficulty reaching the chain anchors at the top of the pitch.

Super fun route. Some great strength and technique moves with a great view.

Protection 

Just about any cam on your rack will fit in this beauty. Make sure you have some #1s for the beginning, some #2s in the middle and some smaller stuff for the top. There is a great spot for a blue TCU in the small crack at the top of the pitch and a #3 comes in handy too.

The anchors are bomber bolts with chains.

Watch your rope when you pull; I've seen a few folks get their lines stuck in this crack.


Photos of Squeeze Play Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Start
The Start
Rock Climbing Photo: me leading my first sand stone crack.
me leading my first sand stone crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Squeeze Play
Squeeze Play
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Pritchett leading Squeeze Play 5.10a
Lisa Pritchett leading Squeeze Play 5.10a
Rock Climbing Photo: Joy on Squeeze Play
Joy on Squeeze Play
Rock Climbing Photo: Squeeze play.  Thin hands to offwidth and tight fi...
Squeeze play. Thin hands to offwidth and tight fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Squeezin'
Squeezin'
Rock Climbing Photo: R Shore on Squeeze Play
R Shore on Squeeze Play
Rock Climbing Photo: Decisions, decisions... Climber: Levi Call Photo: ...
Decisions, decisions... Climber: Levi Call Photo: ...
Rock Climbing Photo: leaving the OW for the thin stuff
leaving the OW for the thin stuff

Comments on Squeeze Play Add Comment
Show which comments
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Apr 11, 2009

for a harder and interesting variation try climbing the last 20 feet using only the thin crack on the right, I think it goes at about 11c this way
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A great and varied climb. Splitter hands finishing with quality, well-protected funkiness. Gear from small TCUs to #3 camalot.
By Ray Hellinger
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 10, 2015

Super fun climb! Using just the finger crack up high is a bit contrived in my opinion.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 21, 2015

The upper part of this looks like a solid 5.11 when you're below it. Somehow every move just works out perfectly to keep it in the 5.10 grade. Takes great gear and has some fantastic sporty movement.

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