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 ADVANCED
Cyclops Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Ourselves T 
Aye, Aye T 
Business Trip T 
Carolyn's Rump T 
Circe T 
Cyclops Direct T 
Dino Damage T 
Eye, The T 
Foul Fowl T 
Goldilocks T 
Gray Cell Green S 
I, The T 
Leader's Fright T 
New Year's Day T 
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 
Overnight Sensation T 
Penelope's Walk T 
Spaghetti & Chili T 
Surface Tension T 
Thin Red Line T 
Ulysses' Bivouac T 

Penelope's Walk 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: John Wolfe, Dick Webster & Woody Stark, April 1969
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: Bill Rusk on Feb 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Go up a left diagonal crack when that crack dwindles choose the path of least resistance and continue up left until you get to a cave. Move up at to the left of the cave to where it joins Are We Ourselves. Pull the final (crux) move to the top.

Watch out for loose rock. Some of the slab is pretty loose.

Reference: Vogel, Randy. (2006). Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West. Falcon Publishing. A great resource.


Location 

About 30 feet right of Spaghetti & Chili on the southwest face of Cyclops Rock.


Protection 

To 2.5 inches; two bolt anchor/rap on top. As of January 2008 one hanger on the rap anchor was very loose. I suggest walking off to northeast.



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By Gary Schenk
Mar 12, 2008

Nasty climb, and the crux at the top sure ain't 5.4!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 12, 2008

Why is it a bomb? And doesn't it finish on Spaghetti and Chili? 5.7?

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Not as a bad as the description suggests and the top bit of hand crack is actually quite fun.

By Pete Johnston
From: Irvine, California
Jan 3, 2010

I consider this a very good route. I usually do it in two pitches to show the beginer a nice airy semi-hanging belay. Has a classic 5.5 hand jam finish through a steep section. Really a fun route, for the experienced leader. Note: vogel book topo/picture is completely wrong, however the write up is correct.

By Natalie Makardish
From: Petaluma, Ca
Jan 4, 2010

my first Lead :)

By Drederek
Mar 2, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

First pitch I ever led at JT, it was a great intro to all the quirkiness of climbing here.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Well, definitely not 5.5. But exactly what to rate it I'm not sure. My wife followed this route, and she is solid on 5.8 most of the time. She fell once on the route, and was pretty scared pulling through the last few jams over the overhanging top out. I think I would give it a 5.8, but to be "consistent" with the rest of j-tree, 5.7+. I don't think the authors of the guide books I use climbed it, but who would blame them?

By Eric "Pig" Varley
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Terrible climb with sections of deteriorating granite. The route is very difficult to protect as the features on scarce, small, and flaring. I placed a tipped out nut in the "crack" just before the traverse out left as it's the only thing that I could place there. A fall on the 5.6/5.7 slab traverse would have pulled the piece and resulted in a nasty fall.

I gave the route an "R" rating because, while you can place gear, little of it is any good. I would be surprised if my gear held a fall.

I've now climbed two 5.5s in J-Tree. I find the grade to be terribly sand bagged as well as ripe for dangerous fall potential. Be warned.