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Penelope's Walk

5.6, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 1.2 from 26 votes
FA: John Wolfe, Dick Webster & Woody Stark, April 1969
California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Hidden Valley C… > Cyclops Rock

Description

Go up a left diagonal crack when that crack dwindles choose the path of least resistance and continue up left until you get to a cave. Move up at to the left of the cave to where it joins Are We Ourselves. Pull the final (crux) move to the top.

Watch out for loose rock. Some of the slab is pretty loose.

Reference: Vogel, Randy. (2006). Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West. Falcon Publishing. A great resource.

Location

About 30 feet right of Spaghetti & Chili on the southwest face of Cyclops Rock.

Protection

To 2.5 inches; two bolt anchor/rap on top. I suggest walking off to northeast.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hand crack before the top out on Penelope's Walk (Spaghetti and Chili also ends here).
[Hide Photo] Hand crack before the top out on Penelope's Walk (Spaghetti and Chili also ends here).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Nasty climb, and the crux at the top sure ain't 5.4! Mar 12, 2008
[Hide Comment] Why is it a bomb? And doesn't it finish on Spaghetti and Chili? 5.7? Mar 12, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Not as a bad as the description suggests and the top bit of hand crack is actually quite fun. Dec 2, 2009
Pete Johnston
Irvine, California
 
[Hide Comment] I consider this a very good route. I usually do it in two pitches to show the beginer a nice airy semi-hanging belay. Has a classic 5.5 hand jam finish through a steep section. Really a fun route, for the experienced leader. Note: vogel book topo/picture is completely wrong, however the write up is correct. Jan 3, 2010
Natalie Makardish
Petaluma, Ca
[Hide Comment] my first Lead :) Jan 4, 2010
Drederek
  5.5
[Hide Comment] First pitch I ever led at JT, it was a great intro to all the quirkiness of climbing here. Mar 2, 2010
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Well, definitely not 5.5. But exactly what to rate it I'm not sure. My wife followed this route, and she is solid on 5.8 most of the time. She fell once on the route, and was pretty scared pulling through the last few jams over the overhanging top out. I think I would give it a 5.8, but to be "consistent" with the rest of j-tree, 5.7+. I don't think the authors of the guide books I use climbed it, but who would blame them? Mar 25, 2012
Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Terrible climb with sections of deteriorating granite. The route is very difficult to protect as the features on scarce, small, and flaring. I placed a tipped out nut in the "crack" just before the traverse out left as it's the only thing that I could place there. A fall on the 5.6/5.7 slab traverse would have pulled the piece and resulted in a nasty fall.

I gave the route an "R" rating because, while you can place gear, little of it is any good. I would be surprised if my gear held a fall.

I've now climbed two 5.5s in J-Tree. I find the grade to be terribly sand bagged as well as ripe for dangerous fall potential. Be warned. Dec 2, 2013
Fernando Cal
CA, UT
  5.6
[Hide Comment] As of 10/23/2016, bolted hangars on top of Penelope's Walk and Spaghetti & Chili have no rap rings nor chains. Will require walk off after top out unless you leave gear on bolts. Oct 24, 2016