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Long's Peak

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Chasm View Wall 
Diamond, The 
Keyboard of the Winds 
Lower East Face 
North Face/Ridge 
Palisades 
Ship's Prow 
Upper East Face 
West Face 

Long's Peak Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,256'
Location: 40.25459, -105.61602 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 104,201
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2006
Forecast:
This Afternoon

19° | 12°
Monday

26° | 13°
Tuesday

31° | 16°
Wednesday

35° | 19°
Thursday

32° | 17°
Friday

33° | 17°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Watching a storm over Estes from the Boulderfield,...

Description 

This is the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is one of the 54 14,000-foot peaks of Colorado. It is a prized playground for the budding hiker/mountaineer, the intermediate to advanced rock climber, the intermediate to advanced mixed/ice climber, the middle-altitude big wall aid climber; and it even sports a few high-end rock routes. Some still come to try to free some of the old aid routes here. Most adventures involve most of a day to a multi-day affair.

The peak itself consists of a variety of different subsections for which it may be more helpful to reorganize this section. There is the vertical arena of the Diamond, the Lower East Face, The Upper East Face, Chasm View Wall, the North Face/Ridge, The Southern Ridge(s), the West Face, Ship's Prow, Keyboard of the Winds, & The Palisades.

A hike up to the eastern cirque of Long's is probably one of the more scenic hikes in the Front Range.

Despite the popularity of the peak and the associated heavy travel, there are still plenty of loose rocks in here. Some have lost body parts to this. Be careful.

The weather here can be the crux. Often storms will surprise the unwary as it comes hidden by the bulk of the peak. Some have lost a few toes, some have lost more.

Getting off the peak can be an adventure in and of itself. There is the Keyhole route around the West side, the North Face scramble & rappel(s), the D7 rappels, and even Keplinger's Couloir.

Getting There 

There are many ways to access this peak. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. This approach will be at least 5 miles. You can approach via Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook/N Long's Peak Trail/Granite Pass, & even the Wild Basin entrance.

Webcam 

nps.gov/common/commonspot/cust...

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

56 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',5],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',9],['5.12',9],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Long's Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Long's Peak:
Cable Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   North Face/Ridge
The Beaver   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3000'   Upper East Face
Keyhole Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   North Face/Ridge
Stettner's Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   Lower East Face
Kor's Door   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550'   Lower East Face
Casual Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   The Diamond
Directissima   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Chasm View Wall
Red Wall   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   Chasm View Wall
Forrest Finish   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
Black Dagger   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   The Diamond
The Obelisk   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600'   The Diamond
Yellow Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
D7 Variation   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches   The Diamond
D7   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
D1   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, Grade V   The Diamond
Ariana   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
Hearts and Arrows   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
Bologna Pony   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'   Ship's Prow
Sarchasm   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   Ship's Prow
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Long's Peak

Featured Route For Long's Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun on the first pitch in the finger crack.

The Obelisk 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond
This climb would probably be a four star if started via Pervertical, rather than Window Direct. Once you get to the Obelisk, the climbing is three star, featuring cracks than are a little cleaner and steeper than usually found on the Diamond. The route is in a south facing dihedral on the left edge of the Diamond.The Obelisk itself starts about halfway between Broadway and Table Ledge. There are two standard methods of getting from TL to the first pitch of the Obelisk: via [[Pervertical Sanct...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Long's Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Long's Peak-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
Long's Peak-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond at sunrise.
The Diamond at sunrise.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.
The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.
Rock Climbing Photo: A stream of headlamps headed up Long's.
A stream of headlamps headed up Long's.
Rock Climbing Photo: There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.
There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Aerial view of the Diamond.
Aerial view of the Diamond.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shameless sunrise shot.  Twin Sisters is t...
Another shameless sunrise shot. Twin Sisters is t...
Rock Climbing Photo: West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08...
West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amaz...
Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amaz...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.
Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.
Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: ...
The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning light.
Early morning light.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond, late September.
The Diamond, late September.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Keyhole.
The Keyhole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiti...
Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiti...
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice fall day.
A nice fall day.
Rock Climbing Photo: After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy  and co...
After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy and co...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise in the Park.
Sunrise in the Park.
Rock Climbing Photo: The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.
The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pika near Long's Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
Pika near Long's Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the North Face.
A look at the North Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Exposure much?
Exposure much?

Show All 59 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Long's Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2014
By Nate Oakes
Apr 5, 2007
Thinking of doing an overnight/full-moon ascent of the Cables Route, does anyone know of the snow conditions?
By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Jun 26, 2007
Conditions on the Diamond and in RMNP are available on Colorado Mountain School's web site totalclimbing.com under park conditions.
By aaron voreis
Aug 29, 2009
Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:

Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff

We searched for quite awhile down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please call Aaron at 970-596-9041 if you have any ideas or saw the incident. My HUGE apologies if anybody was hit by anything.
By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 13, 2010
Has anyone been up there recently? I'm curious about snow conditions on the north face - any useful info regarding a ski descent would be greatly appreciated.
By Chris Beh
Apr 13, 2010
Here's the Long's Peak webcam which shows the N Face:

ns.www.nps.gov.edgesuite.net/f...
By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2010
Nice, thanks!
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2010
Has anyone been up on the Diamond lately and is willing to give a conditions report? The forecast has been way high for thunderstorms lately. Has it played out that way? Has it been wet? Thanks!
By Armin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2010
Adam, was up there last Wednesday, and everything was wet to pouring on the routes, might be a little more dry now. I did Perverical, and it was the driest of all the routes within my partner and mine's abilities. Ariana looked drier if that's your grade. Cheers
By Jeremy Franz
From: Berthoud, CO
Nov 11, 2013
Webcam link has moved to: nps.gov/common/commonspot/cust...
By Galen Bercaw 1
May 16, 2014
I dropped an older generation Black Diamond Cobra ice tool off of Broadway somewhere around Kiener's route. It has the Android clipping leash (but obviously not the part that goes around your wrist). If you find it, please give me a call, I'd love to have it back. (970)412-0816. $100 reward!
By Jralph
Aug 19, 2014
If anyone goes up the Diamond via the North Chimney soon and finds a #1.5 (silver) Wild Country helium Friend about 20-30ft below the Broadway ledge in the North Chimney, I would greatly appreciate getting that back. My partner refused to take the time to take it out even after I put him on belay. I would hate to have to take the cost of that cam out of his flesh. I'm sure I could convince him to buy you a 6 pack of your favorite beer.

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