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Long's Peak 


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Elevation: 14,256'
Page Views: 1,268,039. Good page? (3 likes)   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2006

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Long's Peak from the East.

Description 

This is the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is one of the 54 14,000-foot peaks of Colorado. It is a prized playground for the budding hiker/mountaineer, the intermediate to advanced rock climber, the intermediate to advanced mixed/ice climber, the middle-altitude big wall aid climber; and it even sports a few high-end rock routes. Some still come to try to free some of the old aid routes here. Most adventures involve most of a day to a multi-day affair.

The peak itself consists of a variety of different subsections for which it may be more helpful to reorganize this section. There is the vertical arena of the Diamond, the Lower East Face, The Upper East Face, Chasm View Wall, the North Face/Ridge, The Southern Ridge(s), the West Face, Ship's Prow, Keyboard of the Winds, & The Palisades.

A hike up to the eastern cirque of Long's is probably one of the more scenic hikes in the Front Range.

Despite the popularity of the peak and the associated heavy travel, there are still plenty of loose rocks in here. Some have lost body parts to this. Be careful.

The weather here can be the crux. Often storms will surprise the unwary as it comes hidden by the bulk of the peak. Some have lost a few toes, some have lost more.

Getting off the peak can be an adventure in and of itself. There is the Keyhole route around the West side, the North Face scramble & rappel(s), the D7 rappels, and even Keplinger's Couloir.


Getting There 

There are many ways to access this peak. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. This approach will be at least 5 miles. You can approach via Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook/N Long's Peak Trail/Granite Pass, & even the Wild Basin entrance.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long's Peak:
The Notch Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III   Upper East Face
Kiener's Route   5.3 Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   Upper East Face
The Beaver   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade III   Upper East Face
Kor's Door   5.9-     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II   Lower East Face
Zumie's Thumb   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Upper East Face
Casual Route   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV   The Diamond
Directissima   5.10b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III   Chasm View Wall
Forrest Finish   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   The Diamond
Dunn Westbay   5.10 C3     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade V   The Diamond
The Obelisk   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV   The Diamond
Black Dagger   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade IV   The Diamond
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV   The Diamond
Yellow Wall   5.11b R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet   The Diamond
D7   5.11     Trad, Alpine, Grade IV   The Diamond
Ariana   5.12a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV   The Diamond
Hearts and Arrows   5.12b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade V   The Diamond
Bologna Pony   5.12c     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280 feet, Grade II   Ship's Prow
Etch-A-Sketch   5.13-     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III   Ship's Prow
Keel Haul   5.13     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III   Ship's Prow
Sarchasm   5.14-     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Ship's Prow
Browse More Classics in Long's Peak

Featured Route For Long's Peak
Looking down into the point of the Dagger.

Black Dagger 5.11a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond
From Broadway ledge, follow the first two pitches of D7 or the Yellow Wall to Crossover Ledge. From here, the first pitch of the Black Dagger will become evident as the shallow, left-facing corner.P1. Climb up the steep dihedral until you reach a splitter hand crack (thin hands). The crack widens to 4" for a series of exhilarating moves then returns to thin hands. 5.11a. 160 feet.P2. Begin with steep finger jams. After 30 feet, you will reach the base of the Black Dagge...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Long's Peak Slideshow Add Photo
West Face on the Left.

West Face on the Left.

Long's Peak-Autumn. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Long's Peak-Autumn.
Photo by Blitzo.


Long's Peak. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Long's Peak.
Photo by Blitzo.


Pika near Long's Peak. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Pika near Long's Peak.
Photo by Blitzo.


Sunrise on the Diamond.  Photo by L Smith.

Sunrise on the Diamond. Photo by L Smith.

On the way to Chasm Lake.

On the way to Chasm Lake.

Legendary Czech climber Petr Practel's topo of his 8 hour traverse of the mountain at age 67. <br /> <br /> <br />

BETA PHOTO: Legendary Czech climber Petr Practel's topo of his...

Early morning light.

Early morning light.

Long's Peak as seen from the approach to Arrowhead and McHenry's. Also the scene on the CO state quarter dollar.

Long's Peak as seen from the approach to Arrowhead...

Long's Peak seen at left, from Mills Lake.

Long's Peak seen at left, from Mills Lake.

A look at the North Face.

A look at the North Face.

East face of Long's in early June.

East face of Long's in early June.

The East Face of Longs at Sunrise.

The East Face of Longs at Sunrise.

The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.

The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.

The summit of Longs showing both the Homestretch and Kiener's Route, as seen from the east summit of Meeker, 6/23/07. Climbers can be seen on top.

The summit of Longs showing both the Homestretch a...

Rap ring on Cable Route (north side)

Rap ring on Cable Route (north side)

Looking straight up the N. Chimney and Diamond.  The Mills Glacier is pretty cooked by now.  Aug 15, 2007.

BETA PHOTO: Looking straight up the N. Chimney and Diamond. T...

Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.

Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.

A nice fall day.

A nice fall day.

After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy  and cold! :) <br />

After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy and co...

The Key Hole. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci.

The Key Hole.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.


Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiting for The Diamond to warm up for another couple weeks....

Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiti...

Summit register.

Summit register.

The Keyhole.

The Keyhole.

Watching a storm over Estes from the Boulderfield, 2004.

Watching a storm over Estes from the Boulderfield,...

The summit of Long's Peak.

The summit of Long's Peak.

Long's Peak from Lumpy Ridge.  Photo by James Beissel, September 2008.

Long's Peak from Lumpy Ridge. Photo by James Beis...

The Diamond at sunrise.

The Diamond at sunrise.

The Diamond, late September.

The Diamond, late September.

The boulder field.

The boulder field.

West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08.

West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08...

Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.

Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.

The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: James Beissel.

The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: ...

Moonrise through the Keyhole.

Moonrise through the Keyhole.

A stream of headlamps headed up Long's.

A stream of headlamps headed up Long's.

SW side of Longs, showing the homestretch and the Palisades to the right.  People are visible at the top.

SW side of Longs, showing the homestretch and the ...

Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amazing that it will make grown, manly men weep . . . .

Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amaz...

Sunrise from Chasm Lake.

Sunrise from Chasm Lake.

Sunrise from Chasm Lake.

Sunrise from Chasm Lake.

The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.

The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.

My partner finishing the OW pitch on Pevertical.

My partner finishing the OW pitch on Pevertical.

Another shameless sunrise shot.  Twin Sisters is the ridge in the clouds.

Another shameless sunrise shot. Twin Sisters is t...

One more reason why sunrises on Long's Peak never fail to amaze.

One more reason why sunrises on Long's Peak never ...

This place does not suck.

This place does not suck.

Moon Keyhole

Moon Keyhole

There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.

There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.

Chasm Lake trail.

Chasm Lake trail.

High above Peacock Lake.

High above Peacock Lake.

Winter ascent, Long's Peak, 1-4-13.

Winter ascent, Long's Peak, 1-4-13.

"The Big Picture." <br /> <br />This is actually 1/2 the size of the original scan of an old 6 X 7 Provia slide of mine. <br /> <br />It should still be plenty large enough to trace every route, find every hold/ledge on the face. <br /> <br />Enjoy

"The Big Picture."

This is actually 1/2 the size ...



Comments on Long's Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Oakes
Apr 5, 2007

Thinking of doing an overnight/full-moon ascent of the Cables Route, does anyone know of the snow conditions?

By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Jun 26, 2007

Conditions on the Diamond and in RMNP are available on Colorado Mountain School's web site www.totalclimbing.com under park conditions.

By aaron voreis
Aug 29, 2009

Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:

Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff

We searched for quite awhile down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please call Aaron at 970-596-9041 if you have any ideas or saw the incident. My HUGE apologies if anybody was hit by anything.

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 13, 2010

Has anyone been up there recently? I'm curious about snow conditions on the north face - any useful info regarding a ski descent would be greatly appreciated.

By Chris Beh
Apr 13, 2010

Here's the Long's Peak webcam which shows the N Face:

ns.www.nps.gov.edgesuite.net/featurecontent/romo/bmvc_cam.ht>>>

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2010

Nice, thanks!

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2010

Has anyone been up on the Diamond lately and is willing to give a conditions report? The forecast has been way high for thunderstorms lately. Has it played out that way? Has it been wet? Thanks!

By Armin
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 11, 2010

Adam, was up there last Wednesday, and everything was wet to pouring on the routes, might be a little more dry now. I did Perverical, and it was the driest of all the routes within my partner and mine's abilities. Ariana looked drier if that's your grade. Cheers