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Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Gully 
Damnation Gully 
Diagonal Gully 
Escape Hatch T 
North Gully 
Odell's Gully 
Pinnacle Gully 
South gully 
Yale Gully 

Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,800'
Location: 44.27339, -71.28705 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,398
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Left Side of Huntington's (Telephoto from Wildcat ...

Description 

NOTE: The summer rock climbs in Huntington Ravine have been moved under "WM:Presidential Summer Rock Routes / Huntington Ravive."

Can be crowded during mid-winter weekends due to its proximity to Boston, Canada & NYC.

Getting There 

From Pinkham Notch take the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the Huntington Ravine Trail. This will drop you at the base of all the climbs; quite a beautiful site with many options.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing:
Yale Gully   WI2-3 Easy Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000'   
North Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 500'   
Central Gully   WI1     Ice, Alpine, Grade II   
Odell's Gully   WI2-3     Ice, Alpine, 600'   
Damnation Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 1000'   
Pinnacle Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Featured Route For Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Central Gully

Central Gully WI1  NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : ... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ...
First ascent in Huntington Ravine - also one of the longest routes in the ravine. Watch for avalanches. Editor's Note: The ice grade varies greatly depending on the amount of snow, from the NE Ice "1" (I'm not really sure what that is, since I thought "Ice "1" was used for very moderate glacial travel.) to about "2 / 2+" when there's little snow and lots of water & cold. This is a long climb, second only to Damnation in length, although most of it is higher-angle snow. (R. Hall)...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: good topo of huntington ravine
BETA PHOTO: good topo of huntington ravine
Rock Climbing Photo: First clear view of the ravine (summer).
BETA PHOTO: First clear view of the ravine (summer).
Rock Climbing Photo: On our way to the Pinnacle (5.7) in Huntington Rav...
On our way to the Pinnacle (5.7) in Huntington Rav...
Rock Climbing Photo: Huntington Ravine from the approach.
Huntington Ravine from the approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Central Gully Slab in Huntington Ravine (...
Climbing Central Gully Slab in Huntington Ravine (...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of Huntington's Ravine looking up at P...
At the base of Huntington's Ravine looking up at P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pinnacle Buttress in summer, with Pinnacle Gully o...
BETA PHOTO: Pinnacle Buttress in summer, with Pinnacle Gully o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pinnacle gully from base of Huntington ravine.
Pinnacle gully from base of Huntington ravine.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yale Gulley, Jan '11  Note the climber at the base...
Yale Gulley, Jan '11 Note the climber at the base...
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber's view of Huntington's Ravine from the b...
A climber's view of Huntington's Ravine from the b...

Comments on Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 24, 2009
Huntington Ravine has been climbed since the 1930's. The Pinnacle Buttress climbs vary from extreme aid (North wall above Pinnacle Gully) to easy moderate (East facing face).

Most climbers start Pinnacle at the base of the gully and traverse up south via a ledge ramp onto the face. There are lots of variations but climbing is limited to one section of the buttress. Lots of fixed pins on the crux section on the east face that is the 3rd pitch. So many pins that it can be confusing on this pitch. Basically the more direct and to the right a climber goes on this pitch the harder the climbing is. The hardness is between (5-8 or 9). At this section if a climber breaks out left at the first encounter of difficulty the climbing it will get easier quickly. Also this steep wall of the 3rd pitch can be avoided by climbing far to the left up a ramp at about (5-5). After the 3rd pitch stay near the north edge of the buttress. Highly exposed and easy (5-4) for 2 more pitches up this ridge. From the top of Buttress hike down anyway you want or summit Mt. Washington. I haven't been to the buttress in decades. Then there were no rappel anchors. Escape meant leaving gear. There isn't any special gear needed to do the east face and a minimal trad rack will do with one rope.

The central Gully Buttress head wall is a different story. This area is between Pinnacle and Central Gullies. All the climbs I know of encounter extreme (5-10) moves at least. Route finding is problematic. The wall is about 700+ft. and longer if you include the fourth class finishing after the steep stuff. The climbs have long run outs on the slab sections. It would be best to use a guidebook's route description to ascend this wall.

The rock is unique to N.H. It is coarse and knobby therefore remains sticky in damp conditions. The weather is serious here. Climbers are forced off this area because of sudden temperature drops and it is impossible to see bad weather coming in from the west. It's as alpine as N.H. gets. Views are spectacular.
By AWinters
Administrator
From: NH
Jan 9, 2011
great description, Bradley. this should be moved to the top of the page.
By Jackson Yip
From: San Jose, CA
Sep 13, 2012
just a heads up, a good thing to know if you are new to the ravine is that there is a guide board showing the routes that are in the ravine just out side of the harvard cabin on the fire road leading to the ravine, it's adjacent to the avalanche board.

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