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Huntington Ravine

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Central Gully 
Central Gully - Rock Climb 
Damnation Gully 
Diagonal Gully 
Henderson Ridge 
Mechanics' Route 
North Gully 
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle 
Odell's Gully 
Pinnacle Direct 
Pinnacle Gully 
Yale Gully 

Huntington Ravine 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
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Huntington Ravine from Wildcat ski area. Obvious r...

Description 

Can be crowded during mid-winter weekends due to its proximity to Boston, Canada & NYC.


Getting There 

From Pinkham Notch take the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the Huntington Ravine Trail. This will drop you at the base of all the climbs; quite a beautiful site with many options.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Huntington Ravine:
Yale Gully   WI2-3 Easy Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000'   
North Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 500'   
Pinnacle Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   
Central Gully   WI1     Ice, Alpine, Grade II   
Odell's Gully   WI2-3     Ice, Alpine, 600'   
Damnation Gully   WI3-     Ice, Alpine, 1000'   
Central Gully - Rock Climb   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch   
Henderson Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   
Pinnacle Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
Mechanics' Route   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 220'   
Browse More Classics in Huntington Ravine

Featured Route For Huntington Ravine
The Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle

Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Huntington Ravine
This description covers the rock route. The Pinnacle is perhaps more notable as a winter climb, and should be listed separately as such. The summer route is a classic alpine rock climb.The Pinnacle, located high on Mt. Washington in Huntington Ravine, has been an objective of mountaineers dating back to the Underhills. It has a long and interesting history, explained at length in Webster's 3rd edition guide. An ascent of the route is a fine adventure, easy enough for the less experienced but cla...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Huntington Ravine Slideshow Add Photo
Yale Gulley, Jan '11 <br /> <br />Note the climber at the base, left of the rocks
Yale Gulley, Jan '11

Note the climber at the base...
Pinnacle Buttress in summer, with Pinnacle Gully on the right
BETA PHOTO: Pinnacle Buttress in summer, with Pinnacle Gully o...
At the base of Huntington's Ravine looking up at Pinnacle, Central Gully et al. 2011
At the base of Huntington's Ravine looking up at P...
Huntington Ravine from the approach.
Huntington Ravine from the approach.
Climbing Central Gully Slab in Huntington Ravine (Photo: Brad Parry)
Climbing Central Gully Slab in Huntington Ravine (...
A climber's view of Huntington's Ravine from the base of the fan.  <a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
A climber's view of Huntington's Ravine from the b...
On our way to the Pinnacle (5.7) in Huntington Ravine
On our way to the Pinnacle (5.7) in Huntington Rav...
good topo of huntington ravine
BETA PHOTO: good topo of huntington ravine
Comments on Huntington Ravine Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 24, 2009

Huntington Ravine has been climbed since the 1930's. The Pinnacle Buttress climbs vary from extreme aid (North wall above Pinnacle Gully) to easy moderate (East facing face).

Most climbers start at the base of the gully and traverse up south via a ledge ramp onto the face. There are lots of variations but climbing is limited to one section of the buttress. Lots of fixed pins on the crux section on the east face that is the 3rd pitch. So many pins that it can be confusing on this pitch. Basically the more direct and to the right a climber goes on this pitch the harder the climbing is. The hardness is between (5-8 or 9). At this section if a climber breaks out left at the first encounter of difficulty the climbing it will get easier quickly. Also this steep wall of the 3rd pitch can be avoided by climbing far to the left up a ramp at about (5-5). After the 3rd pitch stay near the north edge of the buttress. Highly exposed and easy (5-4) for 2 more pitches up this ridge. From the top of Buttress hike down anyway you want or summit Mt. Washington. I haven't been to the buttress in decades. Then there were no rappel anchors. Escape meant leaving gear. There isn't any special gear need to do the east face and a minimal trad rack will do with one rope.

The central Gully Buttress head wall is a different story. This area is between Pinnacle and Central Gullies. All the climbs I know of encounter extreme (5-10) moves at least. Route finding is problematic. The wall is about 700+ft. and longer if you include the fourth class finishing after the steep stuff. The climbs have long run outs on the slab sections. It would be best to use a guidebook's route description to ascend this wall.

The rock is unique to N.H. It is coarse and knobby therefore remains sticky in damp conditions. The weather is serious here. Climbers are forced off this area because of sudden temperature drops and it is impossible to see bad weather coming in from the west. It's as alpine as N.H. gets. Views are spectacular.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Jan 9, 2011

great description, Bradley. this should be moved to the top of the page.

By Jackson Yip
From: arlington, ma
Sep 13, 2012

just a heads up, a good thing to know if you are new to the ravine is that there is a guide board showing the routes that are in the ravine just out side of the harvard cabin on the fire road leading to the ravine, it's adjacent to the avalanche board.