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 ADVANCED
Hostess Gully - West Corridor
Routes Sorted
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Between Heaven and Earth S 
Blind Pig S 
Fruit Filling T,S 
Fruit Pie S 
Ho Ho S 
Honeymoon in Almo S 
It Takes Two S 
Numbshull T,S 
Patina Atoll T,S 
Red Rib S 
Southern Rock Opera T 
Twinkie T 
Zinger S 

Honeymoon in Almo 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Smith
Page Views: 4,700
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Brad rapping "Honeymoon"

Description 

The route is the highest route in the gully on the west side of Castle Rock. Approach from the south side trails. This one is a real gem!!!

Follow a clean plate of patina with very thin edges. Hard mantles, crimping, and high steps lead up and left to a set of anchors. One of the best routes on the west side.

Protection 

Draws and maybe a small cam before the first bolt...


Photos of Honeymoon in Almo Slideshow Add Photo
Me at the base of "Honeymoon in Almo" Gr...
Me at the base of "Honeymoon in Almo" Gr...
Lovely climb
Lovely climb
Brian at one of the many cruxes..
Brian at one of the many cruxes..
Honeymooon in Almo
Honeymooon in Almo

Comments on Honeymoon in Almo Add Comment
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By Nathan Smith
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 26, 2006

First Ascent: Nathan Smith
By David Tvedt
Jul 21, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Very good route with excellent rock. My 10d rating is based on my height (6'). We watched a 5'4" climber barely be able to reach the key crimp holds on this route and it was definitely harder for him. He thought it was easily 11a. To my spouse(5'10") and I, it seemed a little bit easier than Milk Toast(North Wall) given 10d(felt 11a) and to us it felt in the 10d range. The thin, crisp edges on this route gave it a more secure feeling than the sketchy holds at the start of Milk Toast.

The left traverse at the end is a little odd but I think adds some interesting character to the route. The leftward lean to the routes on the upper part of this side of the gully was probably unfortunate(the 15' distance limit at Castle forced routes left after the "first" one was done) but at least in this case, I think the traverse ending is at least as good as the other possible straight up ending (the thin finish to Blind Pig just above it).
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Stellar route. From below the face looks so blank and improbable but once you get up there and commit to the tiny edges, it goes. Great stuff Nathan.
By Travis Willcox
From: Jackson, WY
Jun 30, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great, sporty undertaking. It does look like such a smooth improbable face, but the thin edges make for a great sequence of balancy/reachy/fun moves - adds some flavor to the great smearing and patina dishes found on most of the face routes in the area.
By BryceS
From: Hyrum Ut
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Awsome route I thought it was a solid 11a. Great little crimper edges with a little friction. Stays in the shade until 1:00. Fun moves its one I'll climb again.
By dave bingham
Jun 9, 2014

Awesome route! It's super-blank looking, but has just enough classic City edges to make it go without any stopper sections.
By Alec
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A fun, improbable route that suffers from a contrived finish. You can pretty much grab the patina jug rail from the last bolt but the route line veers left on slopey bumps.

It's also probably more like 5.13 if you're under 5'4".
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 29, 2014

@Alec - what's contrived? If you must connect the dots and go from last bolt to anchors then you've got no route finding skills son!