This crack is the prominent corner to the left of Scarlet Begonias. Most folks just climb to the chain anchors just above the flake, making the climb a 5.10b. The 5.11c comes past the first set of anchors and follows a finger crack over a small roof about 50 ft further.
It is fantastic! Perfect hands in the corner and then pulling the flake is a tad exposed but very fun. Very sustained classic crack climbing! Great route!
Mostly #1s and #2s all the way. A .75 is handy above the flake. A #3 may fit just below the flake too. Smaller gear will be necessary if you climb the small section. Watch your rope drag; it's a little tricky. A few slings could be helpful. Two bomber bolt anchors with chains are at the top of both pitches.
Credit: Patrick Bardsley
Climbing in the sun in February.
Dave firing it off brown point stylie
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 23, 2007
after the first set of anchors you will need (2) .75, .5, and a .4
to get you to the second set of anchors..
Earlier this summer I blew it clipping the 2nd anchor. my last piece (.4) just after the 2nd roof blew out some rock, so now it may be easier clipping the anchor because you now have a foot to tiptoe on(its still the crux!)....needless to say it was a fun, safe, scary, clean whipper
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 5, 2008
I think it should be clarified that they're talking #2 camalots. If we're talking Friends, 2-1/2 are pretty mandatory. #2s are too small and #3s require some serious cramming.
From: SL UT
Nov 10, 2008
fun climb- 2 camalots protect the first pitch to the roof. I don't think 1 camalots are neccesary. After the roof you could place some 1 camalots in pods- but you'll probably want you hands in there. Otherwise they (1 camalots) are too tight- 2 friends are best. Take a BD .3 for below the upper anchor.
|By B Roth|
From: st george, ut
Apr 26, 2009
most folks layback the flake (or bulge) which feels exposed, however it's pretty easy to keep jamming it which doesn't feel exposed at all.