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Mean High Tide T 
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Touchstone Wall T 

Fails of Power 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt
Page Views: 5,653
Submitted By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Ari Menitov on Fails of Power.

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This crack is the prominent corner to the left of Scarlet Begonias. Most folks just climb to the chain anchors just above the flake, making the climb a 5.10b. The 5.11c comes past the first set of anchors and follows a finger crack over a small roof about 50 ft further.

It is fantastic! Perfect hands in the corner and then pulling the flake is a tad exposed but very fun. Very sustained classic crack climbing! Great route!


Mostly #1s and #2s all the way. A .75 is handy above the flake. A #3 may fit just below the flake too. Smaller gear will be necessary if you climb the small section. Watch your rope drag; it's a little tricky. A few slings could be helpful. Two bomber bolt anchors with chains are at the top of both pitches.

Photos of Fails of Power Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Credit: Patrick Bardsley
Credit: Patrick Bardsley
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad sending
Brad sending
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in the sun in February.
Climbing in the sun in February.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave firing it off brown point stylie
Dave firing it off brown point stylie
Rock Climbing Photo: 213blc leading
213blc leading

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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 23, 2007

after the first set of anchors you will need (2) .75, .5, and a .4
to get you to the second set of anchors..

Earlier this summer I blew it clipping the 2nd anchor. my last piece (.4) just after the 2nd roof blew out some rock, so now it may be easier clipping the anchor because you now have a foot to tiptoe on(its still the crux!)....needless to say it was a fun, safe, scary, clean whipper
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 5, 2008

I think it should be clarified that they're talking #2 camalots. If we're talking Friends, 2-1/2 are pretty mandatory. #2s are too small and #3s require some serious cramming.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 10, 2008

fun climb- 2 camalots protect the first pitch to the roof. I don't think 1 camalots are neccesary. After the roof you could place some 1 camalots in pods- but you'll probably want you hands in there. Otherwise they (1 camalots) are too tight- 2 friends are best. Take a BD .3 for below the upper anchor.
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Apr 26, 2009

most folks layback the flake (or bulge) which feels exposed, however it's pretty easy to keep jamming it which doesn't feel exposed at all.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Oct 7, 2014

Pulling the roof is way harder than the roof on Shunes.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 7, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

^^^^ I'll second that. Shune's is more like 11b. solid for the grade and maybe even harder.
By Ray Hellinger
From: Zion...for the most part
Mar 25, 2015

I'd give this 11+ (never believed in a/b/c/d ratings for trad climbs below 5.12) and that is just to pull the roof and get to the anchors. You will definitely think you are at IC on this one.....oh yeah......except for the 1,000 times better view!

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