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Elevation: 6,545 ft
GPS: 37.26749, -107.87999
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 28, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Durango is a nice, mid-sized town in southwestern Colorado with a variety of local rock climbing. No single crag is a destination in itself, but each of them has some gems and together make for a nice local climbing scene.

For a good pump on some steep limestone, check out the sport climbing at the Golf Wall or Cascade Canyon. If you think trad is rad, make a trip to East Animas and don't miss the Watch Crystal. It is one of the finest pieces of stone in the area. For bouldering, check out the sandstone blocks of Turtle Lake, Sailing Hawks or Lightner Creek. X-Rock is right at the north end of town and has a nice little selection of routes that are easily top-roped. If you prefer something a little more obscure, try exploring the Hermosa cliffs. Lemon Reservoir should not be missed either, it has quality sport and mixed lines. For a more backcountry/alpine climbing experience, look into the Pine River or Vallecito areas.

Your best bet for information on climbing around the area is to check out a copy of Durango Sandstone (new edition came out in 2014, reprinted in 2021) and Durango Bouldering (OUT OF PRINT) at any of the local climbing shops or book stores.

Spring and Fall are the best seasons to rock climb around Durango. The temperatures are typically mild during these times. Summers can get hot, especially on sunny walls, but it can be pleasant to climb in the shade or during the morning. Winter typically brings colder weather and snow, but during periods of dry weather in the sun it can be nice.

Getting There Suggest change

Take US Hwy 550 if coming from the north or south, or take US Hwy 160 if coming from the east or west.

Closed areas

Suggest change
Everything to the right of the East Animas designated climbing trail is private property and is apparently closed to climbing.

1,245 Total Climbs

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Location: Durango Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Durango

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 68
Bird Hole Right
Boulder
V4 6B
 61
Pocket Change
Boulder
V5 6C
 100
Three Finger Pocket/Petrified Prow
Boulder
V6 7A
 70
Something Wicked This Way Comes
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 92
Byrd's Classic
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 105
Simians to the Sun
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 117
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitte…
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 78
Apes of Wrath
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 84
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Durangutan
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 71
Gold Wall
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 78
Watch Crystal Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 80
Close To The Edge
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 51
Holy Grail
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Brady's Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bird Hole Right Turtle Lake > Bouldering > Big E Block
 68
V3 6A Boulder
Pocket Change Sailing Hawks > Pocket Change Area > Pocket Change Boulder
 61
V4 6B Boulder
Three Finger Pocket/Petrifi… Sailing Hawks > Petrified Area > Petrified Boulder
 100
V5 6C Boulder
Something Wicked This Way C… Sailing Hawks > Triangle Boulder
 70
V6 7A Boulder
Byrd's Classic E Animas > E Byrd's
 92
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Simians to the Sun E Animas > I. Watch Crystal
 105
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (sub… E Animas > J. Jabba Buttress
 117
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Apes of Wrath E Animas > I. Watch Crystal
 78
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Chucky Bill Lemon Reservoir > W Side
 84
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Durangutan E Animas > I. Watch Crystal
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Gold Wall X Rock > Gold Wall
 71
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Watch Crystal Crack E Animas > I. Watch Crystal
 78
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Close To The Edge Cascade Canyon > Garden of Eden Wall (…
 80
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Holy Grail Lemon Reservoir > E Side
 51
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Brady's Route Lemon Reservoir > E Side
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Durango »

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