Mountain Project: Climbing Durango

Durango is a nice, mid-sized town in southwestern Colorado with a variety of local rock climbing. No single crag is a destination in itself, but each of them has some gems, and together make for a nice local climbing scene.

For a good pump on some steep limestone, check out the sport climbing at the Golf Wall. If you think trad is rad, make a trip to East Animas and don't miss the Watch Crystal. It is one of the finest pieces of stone in the area. For bouldering, check out Turtle Lake, Sailing Hawks or any of the many other areas. X-Rock is right at the north end of town and has a nice little selection of routes that are easily top-roped. If you prefer something a little more obscure, try exploring the Hermosa cliffs. Lemon Reservoir should not be missed either. It is one of the newer crags in the area where you can find quality sport, gear, or mixed lines. For a more backcountry/alpine climbing experience, look into the Pine River or Vallecito areas.

Your best bet for information on climbing around the area is to pick up a copy of Durango Sandstone and Durango Bouldering at any of the climbing shops in town. Both are well done and written by local climbers/authors.

Pine Needle Mountaineering
Backcountry Experience
Gardenswartz Outdoors

Spring and Fall are the best seasons to rock climb around Durango. The temperatures are typically mild during these times. Summers can get hot, especially on sunny walls, but it can be pleasant to climb in the shade or during the morning. Winter typically brings colder weather and snow, but during periods of dry weather in the sun it can be nice.

Getting There

Take US Hwy 550 if coming from the north or south, or take CO Hwy 160 if coming from the east or west.

Google Map

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Durango:

Bird Hole Right V3 Boulder, 16 feet Bouldering : Big East Block

Three Finger Pocket/Petrified Prow V5 Boulder, 12 feet Sailing Hawks : Petrified Boulder

The Fin (Stand) V7 Boulder, 20 feet Bouldering : Big East Block

Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet East Animas : Jabba Buttress

Byrd's Classic 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches East Animas : Byrd's

The Black Arete 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet East Animas : Watch Crystal

Ebb Tide Arete 5.8+ Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet West Coast Cliffs : Jake's Gully

(Enter) Sandman 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet East Animas : Jabba Buttress

Simians to the Sun 5.9+ Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet East Animas : Watch Crystal

Apes of Wrath 5.10 Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet East Animas : Watch Crystal

Durangutan 5.10c Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 200 feet East Animas : Watch Crystal

Gold Wall 5.10+ Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet X Rock : Gold Wall

Watch Crystal Crack 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet East Animas : Watch Crystal

Par Six 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Golf Wall : Right Side

Punta Magna 5.11c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet East Animas : Apple Cider

Close To The Edge 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Cascade Canyon : Pool Area

Holy Grail 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet Lemon Reservoir : East Side

Brady's Route 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet Lemon Reservoir : East Side

Stargazer 5.12b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet East Animas : Stargazer

Divitator 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Golf Wall : Country Club Cave

Photos of Durango

Slideshow

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Tom crossing a tyrolean in Granite lands.	Laser Crack, V2ish.	Baker's Bridge. Photo by B. Campbell.
BETA PHOTO: Gentle Ben on Legacy of the Kid 5.9 R/X. WORD!	Khumbu, the Hermosa dog at the trailhead. She woul...	Like overhangs?
The Pope's Nose.	Bouldering on boulders.	More bouldering on boulders.
Local Durango hard-goats.	Steve, Eggman, Eginore bivying on Insectaphobia, t...	Steve, Eggman, Eginore, aid climbing on Insectapho...
South/southeast face of the Pope's Nose.	Valalpin's Formations....	BETA PHOTO: Kris French tests out his shiny new 25-bolt anchor...
Dihedral of Grinning Hostess w/ aesthetic undercli...	1st ascent for those who dare...Wildcat Canyon.	Try Modus Hoperandi. Photo by Blitzo.
Try SKA Special ESB. Photo by Blitzo.	Try True Blonde. Photo by Blitzo.	"Enter Sandman" @ East A.
Nice ice.

Comments on Durango

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By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Sep 17, 2008

The new edition of Durango Sandstone has been released! It is available at Backcountry Experience in Durango. Look for the Crow on the corner of 12th and Camino del Rio.

By IanA
From: Durango, CO
Aug 7, 2009

Here is a link to a good video representing the Bouldering in Durango.

By IanA
From: Durango, CO
Aug 18, 2009

Durango Bouldering Guide in stores now. Check it out!

By Laura Howey
From: Gilbert, AZ
May 18, 2010

Went to Durango High School and coming back July 30th - August 6th. Is anyone interested in climbing a couple of those days?

Staying at Cascade Lodge north of Purgatory. Have 60m rope, 12 draws, 2 personal anchors, harness, shoes, ATC device. I've been leading and TR 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 and am trying to tackle 5.10's before I come. Been climbing since mid-March and am addicted!!!

Laura
laurahowey@me.com
480-628-1280

By .Miles
From: Durango, co
Jun 16, 2010

I'm on vacation from SF for the summer. I'll be in Durango till October and would like to find some folks to climb with. I've got gear and a descent amount of skill. I know there are a lot of good pitches here and I'd love to play on them. I have a house in La Plata Canyon. I'm at lorenmiles@yahoo.com.

By Peter12345
From: Bay Area, CA
Sep 8, 2010

Hi, I just moved to Durango from California and I am looking for local climbers to climb around Durango. I am also interested in climbing trips to Ouray, Telluride, Indian Creek, anything good in the area.

By Grace Gamble
Nov 14, 2010

Hey, guys! I'm new to the area: live in Dolores work in Cortez for Osprey, and have yet to find climbing partners. If interested, please contact me via email (ggam167@hotmail.com) or phone (704-576-4313). Thanks!

By David Kozak
Jan 29, 2011

Has anyone ventured up to and climbed the two ice flows that have formed on the Falls Creek wall? From 550 they look pretty good.

By Colin Cox
Dec 20, 2011

In regards to the video..."Receptionist Stand - V9"? As a long time Flagstaff local, I know that's preposterous. Removing 2/3 of a V10 does not a V9 make.

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Durango

Description

Getting There

The Classics