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Climber on Cranny
Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.
Cranny starts from the right end of the ledge, and follows the obvious double crack system. It requires an interesting combination of techniques, and protection is adequate but not copious.
Standard rack, including small cams (Aliens).
Nate "Night Train" Knight pulling the double
Cameron is only 8!! What a stud!
BETA PHOTO: Savannah pointing the way to Cranny (5.8)
|By Brian Reynolds|
Nov 29, 2003
I didn't realize how steep this climb is until I was into the alcove and standing at the base. Fun, interesting climb.
|By Infernal Doom Fanatic|
Oct 1, 2004
Better as a toprope.The crack gets sandy and the pro can be dubious and tricky. Quite steep for a 5.8 and the final moves are a mutha!
Apr 4, 2005
Belaying from the first ledge above the ground makes this climb much safer. Otherwise, a leader fall higer up can end up on the leader hitting the second ledge, due to rope stretch.
Sep 10, 2006
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2007
This climb is surprisingly fun! I found solid gear, and never felt that the protection was dubious (and I'm pretty picky about good gear!) Definitely steep for a 5.8!
Mar 3, 2008
Maybe this one has cleaned up over the years, I found the pro to be bomber and saw little of the above mentioned sand. Went on a nut down low and two BD #1's. Top out moves are powerful to say the least, and the high step layback is tons of fun. Overall, an exciting - if all too short - lead that I will do again!
|By Joe M|
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 11, 2009
I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier.
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 27, 2009
Way more fun than I expected for such a short route! First 5.8 lead.
Feb 16, 2010
Take just a light rack of cams and nuts. Lots of stemming. Last moves at the top are definitely stout.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Sep 9, 2010
Short, a better toprope than as a lead. All of an "8."
From: Clearfield, UT
Dec 20, 2010
This climb is tons of fun (if only it could have been 4 times as long). The moves are varied and cool and the protection was great. No need for aliens, I placed a .75, 1, and 2 C4 all of which were bomber. As for the rating, I didn't know what it was rated before jumping on it and when I got to the top I said it felt like 5.8, so I'd say the rating is right on.
Nov 8, 2011
Good climb. Was scratching my head at the crux until I figured out to stem wide and lieback.