Note, this route is now probably 5.10R unless someone has figured out an easier start.
This was originally a 50 Classic Climbs route. There has been much history about this route. Once, it carried a somber reputation of a fear-inducing North Wall. However, a couple Californians came to erase that reputation with an afternoon ascent. In its former state, it provided a great, moderate line up the 3rd buttress. With the rock fall which changed the first 2 pitches in the late 1990s, this route's start increased in difficulty to the 5.10 R range. Still, some loose rock exists in the section between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses which runs across the start of this line. Route finding still is a bit challenging, as evidenced by bits of scattered gear along the route.
Per BobDergay: alternatively you can: "start this route by going up the wide crack/squeeze chimney on the Kor-Van Tongeren route just to the right of the scar. Head up as if you're starting the Kor-Van Tongeren, then after emerging from the squeeze chimney (5.8ish) you do a pitch left (75-80 feet), staying essentially level and you'll come to the old anchors/slings that were the original Northcutt-Carter 3rd pitch start."
The approach takes about 1 1/3 to 1 1/2 hours.
P1. Ascend a corner to a chimney about 1/2 a rope length, move left, pass a smooth section and belay at a reasonable stance. ~110'.
New line - Ascend somewhat fractured rock.
P2. Ascend a dihedral, move left into another dihedral, pass pins, then move left again into another dihedral, and belay at a ledge. ~150'.
New line - TBA.
P3. This can be a route-finding challenge. Move up ~20' then move left to a smaller-than-you-think right-facing dihedral (~80' out) that is the right side of a subtle pillar. You'll likely pass 3 pins. You'll be drawn further left than you think, if you don't look carefully. ~160'.
P4. Go up a crack above this pillar in a R-facing dihedral. Continue up a left-facing dihedral and belay in nook. You'll likely pass some pins & fixed nut. ~150'.
P5. Pass a bulge on its right side, then move left, pass a ledge, fade right, go up to a 2nd ledge with a pin. ~160'.
P6. Continue up a shallow dihedral up and right with a pin past a bulge. Continue up left past fixed pins into a chimney. The belay seemed semi-hanging. ~165'.
P7. Climb up and right, then undercling left, pass a bulge, and continue up somewhat a chimney with pins at the top. ~140'.
P8. Move slight down to a gully, continue to the top of the wall.
Descent: hike uphill/right into the gully bordering the right side of the third buttress. This is loose in spots and can provide some excitement. Near the bottom of the gully, you must trend a bit uphill, climber's right, to keep the descent mellow.
Location
This is on the third/rightmost buttress of Hallett Peak.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jun 15, 2007
I did this route after the rock fall, but it was ~5 years ago, so I unfortunately don't remember many details. I seem to recall one of the replacement pitches climbing a dihedral that arches right-wards to form a roof, and placing a 0 TCU at the exit of the roof. The crux was getting established above the roof. When the rockfall first occurred, there was a great deal of speculation that the route was "destroyed", but I found it to be still quite enjoyable, and not terribly dangerous. I believe the "new" route is described in Gillett's guidebook.
I don't see any reason to retain the "traditional rating" if the first two pitches have fallen off! Why not list it at 5.10?
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 27, 2007
George, I just haven't been back to try the new version...maybe waiting for loose rock to get pulled off. I've got to get back & try it. I don't like putting in information without direct knowledge...it's like copying a guidebook. If someone has more modern info, let me know, and I'll add it to the description & change the rating.
You can start this route by going up the wide crack/squeeze chimney on the Kor-Van Tongeren Route just to the right of the scar. Head up as if you're starting the Kor-Van Tongeren, then after emerging from the squeeze chimney (5.8ish) you do a pitch left (75-80 feet), staying essentially level and you'll come to the old anchors/slings that were the original Northcutt-Carter 3rd pitch start. From there, follow the above description.
I did this route a few weeks ago- AMAZING! Do this route!! The fact that this wall was climbed in 1956 is astounding! Kudos to Ray Northcutt and Harvey Carter!
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