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L to R R to L Alpha
Same cliffline as the Motherlode.
Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first road on the right. Continue up the road until it turns into a trail. About 5 min from the Motherlode Parking area.
42 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chocolate Factory:
Augustus Gloop 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Chocolate River 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Sugar Rush 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Oompa 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Wonkaholic 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 50'
EGBG 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
robotic thumb 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 60'
Loompa 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 60'
The Glass Elevator 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 60'
The Andy Man Can 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 65'
Babinski sign 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 60'
One Side Makes You Taller 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 55'
Hip to the Jive 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 65'
Enkidu 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 60'
Snozzberries 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 80'
J Rat's Back 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Gilgamesh 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Swedish Fish 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Malice 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Gene Wilder 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Featured Route For Chocolate Factory
Charlie 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory
This is the strikingly beautiful, left-leaning dihedral about 50 feet right of Loompa. The route basically breaks down to a 12a to a hard V6 boulder problem protected by reasonable but slightly tricky gear.Begin below a single bolt about 10 feet left of the corner. Make long but easy face moves past the bolt and reach right into the very wide crack. Jam your torso into the crack and worm and lieback your way to some good jugs and a leg-wrap rest. The crack starts to pinch off a bit but some ...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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