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Chocolate Factory

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andy Man Can, The T 
Augustus Gloop S 
Babinski sign  S 
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 
Bleak December S 
Buttercup S 
Cat's Demise S 
Charlie T 
Chocolate River S 
Climactic Crush S 
Easy Pickins T 
EGBG S 
Enkidu S 
Fickelgruber T 
For Your Health S 
Gene Wilder S 
Gilgamesh S 
Glass Elevator, The S 
Gobstopper S 
Golden Ticket S 
Grandpa Joe S 
Grumpalump S 
Hip to the Jive S 
Icebreaker S 
J Rat's Back S 
Juggernaut, The S 
Loompa S 
Malice S 
Mike Teavee S 
Molten S 
Mr. P. S 
Naked S 
One Side Makes You Taller S 
Oompa S 
Pure Imagination S 
robotic thumb S 
Snarf Victory S 
Snozzberries S 
Strongyloides T 
Sugar Rush S 
Swedish Fish S 
Team Tough on Tour S 
Theobroma S 
Throbbing Emotions S 
Through the Looking Glass T 
Toxicodendron S 
Willy Wonka S 
Wobbler S 
Wonkaholic S 
Unsorted Routes:

Chocolate Factory  


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Page Views: 18,844
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: androo.daveass on Aug 13, 2008
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Description 

Same cliffline as the Motherlode.

Getting There 

Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first road on the right. Continue up the road until it turns into a trail. About 5 min from the Motherlode Parking area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

49 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',15],['5.11',12],['5.12',10],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chocolate Factory:
Chocolate River   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Augustus Gloop   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Grandpa Joe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Sugar Rush   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
EGBG   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Wonkaholic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   
Oompa   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
robotic thumb   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
Loompa   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
The Andy Man Can   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 65'   
The Glass Elevator   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
One Side Makes You Taller   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 55'   
Hip to the Jive   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Enkidu   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
Snozzberries   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
J Rat's Back   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Swedish Fish   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Gilgamesh   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Malice   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Gene Wilder   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Chocolate Factory

Featured Route For Chocolate Factory
Malice

Malice 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory
Begin with easy climbing up a slab to reach the overhanging headwall. Take a deep breath, shake, chalk, and pull on slopers, side pulls, and the occasional jug for 30 feet of sustained pumpy climbing. A surprise move awaits before the chains. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Comments on Chocolate Factory Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 23, 2009
Adam Taylor just sent "The Golden Ticket", perhaps the hardest route at the Red at 14c or d. Here are his comments posted at Redriverclimbing.com

"As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren't pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.
As for the grade, I do not know... It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating. "