All Locations > Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Bald Rock Recre… > Chocolate Factory

End of Innocence

Name: End of Innocence
Rating: 1.6

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Chocolate Factory

L › R R › L A › Z

	A.L.F. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	ABR S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Atomic Fireballs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Babinski sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Bathed in Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Big Friendly Giant, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Butane Junky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Butterface S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Cats' Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Chocolate Myotis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chocolatier S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Crimp My Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Death by Chocolate S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Divine Punishment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	End of Innocence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Fatface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gene Wilder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Giant Peach, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
	Grandma Josephine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hookah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Icebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Keepin it Real S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kentucky Grape Vine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	King of the Rhodo T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Limbic System S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Loverface S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Malice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Meh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Mr. P. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Naked S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Nutter Butter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Old School Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Oompa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Peaches and Cream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Perfect Puzzle V2 5+
	Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
	Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scarlet Scorchdropper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Shootin' Hot Hugs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Silky Smooth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Spinal Tap S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Stalker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Storm Gutter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Theobroma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Three Stooges S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Through the Looking Glass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Twinkie's Little Sister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Veruca Salt S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Violet Beauregarde S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Phil Wilkes, Art Cammers, 2009.
Page Views:	732 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Ryan McDermott on Mar 12, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Billy Simek, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.

Description

As of 3/18, seemed like this route had not been climbed since the first ascent. Could be a cool route if cleaned up, but the burly layback down low takes you into brittle rock and licheny, sandy slab above, with no apparent anchors. There are trees further up the slab (80ft?) but I traversed to anchors of Sugar Rush and lowered from there.

Location

Layback crack starts from a ledge ~15ft to the left of the leftmost bolted slab route.

Protection

4 or 5 Camalots helpful when crack widens out. Protection on slab mostly in horizontals.

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