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Routes in Chocolate Factory

Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Babinski sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butane Junky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cat's Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Death by Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gene Wilder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Icebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Malice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mr. P. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old School Chocolate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oompa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfect Puzzle V3 6A
Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scarlet Scorchdropper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Theobroma S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Through the Looking Glass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dario Ventura, 2007
Page Views: 1,900 total · 18/month
Shared By: David Strawser on Jun 6, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Private Property Details

Description

This is the leftmost bolted route on the vertical wall visible as you approach the cliff. Climb slotted pockets to reach a distinct crux section. Continue up to a short overhanging pockets section just before the chains.

Location

This is the leftmost bolted route on the vertical wall visible as you approach the cliff

Protection

10 Bolts. Chains

Photos

Gene Beiermann
INDIANAPOLIS
Gene Beiermann   INDIANAPOLIS
I loved this climb. The lower pocketed/slotted section was fun big movement toward a middle crux. Even going right at the crux this is a one move wonder with a satisfying easy jug haul for the last few bolts. The grade, going right or otherwise, likely could be 11c/d. The lower fun/reachy moves in front of the crux and the pump factor can justify the 11d/12a rating. A must-do at the wall, welcome soft grade compared to the sandbagged classic 10's to the right. Dec 17, 2016
M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
M.Ish   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Route has cleaned up well over the years. No friable feet or hands the whole way up. Distinct, fun, v3 crux at the 4th bolt. Excellent climbing, don't miss the no hands rest halfway for the push to the chains. Sep 28, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
 
The crux is a really big move, or more probably a dyno after the 4th bolt. If you move left, you can avoid this crux staying on big holds, perhaps reducing the grade a bit. May 5, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
 
Really fun movement on great pockets. I don't have a lot of basis for this, but seems like it might be a bit soft for the grade.

Update on the location-- there are two bolted lines to the left of J Rat's Back on this section of wall. Oct 27, 2014
Meaghan Nelson
Mount Vernon, IN
5.12a
Meaghan Nelson   Mount Vernon, IN
5.12a
Awesome cruxy climb. It sounds like it has cleaned up well from a few years ago. Everything seems pretty solid; some of the rock on the overhang does appear to be the most inspiring but it's fine. Nov 4, 2013
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
This route will improve with more traffic and possibly increase the number of stars. The rock is very solid up through the crux, but there are many yet friable edges for feet that you must be careful with. Although the crux is distinct, the climbing above still keeps you on your toes as you reach the final overhanging section. May 31, 2010