Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Quinn, Dan Beck 2012
Page Views: 3,494 total · 56/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


89 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This extremely unique route is split into two very distinct sections. The first 40 feet, which has a very traditional feel, follows a huge flake up to a large hole where you will find a standing no-hands rest. Boulder over a small bulge and sprint past sustained pockets and edges to the top.

Rumor has it the huge flake is reinforced so beware. It didn't seem dangerous to me.

Location

Right of Hip to the Jive.

Protection

Bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
 
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
 
Great route with a lot of variety. The bottom section before the ledge would be a fantastic short route by itself, but there's more classic, Red River-style fun to be had on the steep upper section. Oct 12, 2014
TimberjackChris Martin
Glacier View, AK
TimberjackChris Martin   Glacier View, AK
The route description for this one is a little misleading, and fails to mention a large dyno or static lunge above bolt

the first 5 bolts are standard but tricky.
what is not mentioned comes after entering the Large Hueco to the right.
using a bomber undercling crack, move to center of the hueco.

From there, make a very long move up and left to a lip
the right edge is less secure but can be done statically based on height
the left edge is more bomber but requires a committing dyno.
both these moves are done high and right of the bolt, and result in an exciting, but clean whip if not completed.

once through the dyno, make several moves to reach the bolt and clip. Mar 18, 2017
BrianWS  
... Maybe because the description isn't supposed to be a full beta spray? Mar 19, 2017