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Routes in Chocolate Factory

Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Babinski sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butane Junky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cat's Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Death by Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gene Wilder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Icebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Malice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mr. P. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old School Chocolate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oompa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfect Puzzle V3 6A
Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scarlet Scorchdropper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Theobroma S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Through the Looking Glass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Page Views: 7,288 total, 142/month
Shared By: Thomas Duke on Oct 2, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Private Property Details

Description

12c start to a V9 boulder problem finishing in a long dyno to a jug. Next, a series of tough crimps and lockoffs take you a reachy crux followed by tough pockets and more crimps.

Location

To the left of Charlie on the flat, angled boulder.

Protection

Bolts, oval anchors.

Photos

Tom Gnyra    
onsights with pre placed draws are onsights in hard sport. just because you can't do it doesn't make it not an onsight. placing the draw is secondary. Feb 11, 2015
Nick Metzger
Chattanooga, TN
Nick Metzger   Chattanooga, TN
Jug ladder start till second bolt. Incredible looking line. The photo does zero justice to how slightly overhung this entire route is. Oct 20, 2014
Midwest Will
ann arbor, MI
Midwest Will   ann arbor, MI
Onsight with placed gear, in my book is a pinkpoint. Still impressive but not onsights. Oct 20, 2014
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Johnathan Siegrist made the first ascent in November 2010. Before he linked it, the climb was referred to as "The Honeycomb Project".

Adam Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination on November 1, 2012 suggesting low end 8c+. An hour later, on the same day, he onsighted the neighboring Golden Ticket suggesting high end 8c+. Both climbs were originally rated 9a.

Also, the beautiful and incredibly talented Sasha DiGiulian made the first female ascent in October 2011. At the time her ascent was considered the most difficult American female sport achievement to date. The video of her working the climb and her actual ascent is very inspiring. Nov 29, 2013