Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 65 ft|
|Page Views:||1,535 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Mann on Dec 11, 2011|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
Private Property Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.
DescriptionAn awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak. Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way. Very crimpy.
Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.
Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...
LocationCurrently this is the route to the right of Cat's Demise (13b) on the far left side of the Chocolate Factory proper.
From Wobbler & Malice: Walk the cliff down into a gully and back up to a large orange wall defined by a crack leading form a huge 10 foot hueco. Follow the trail left about 100 feet and up to a large ivy grown wall with 2 clean gold streaks on the right. Bleak December is the left of the two routes. I believe the route in the streak 20 feet to the right is called "Dainty Butterfly" 12b - but I could be mistaken.
Fastest approach: You can take a left fork off the approach trail to Oompa and Loompa. Look for the uphill overgrown logging road about 40 feet after hopping over the small creek - approx 150 yards from the road. Follow a few minutes and look for the wall in the description photo up on your left (north facing).