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Routes in Chocolate Factory
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A.L.F. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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ABR S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Atomic Fireballs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Babinski sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Bathed in Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Big Friendly Giant, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butane Junky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Butterface S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Cats' Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Chocolate Myotis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chocolatier S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crimp My Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Death by Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Divine Punishment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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End of Innocence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fatface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gene Wilder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Giant Peach, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Grandma Josephine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hookah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Icebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keepin it Real S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kentucky Grape Vine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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King of the Rhodo T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Limbic System S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Loverface S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Malice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Meh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mr. P. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Naked S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Nutter Butter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Old School Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Oompa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perfect Puzzle V2 5+ |
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Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scarlet Scorchdropper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shootin' Hot Hugs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silky Smooth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spinal Tap S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stalker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Storm Gutter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Theobroma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Three Stooges S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Through the Looking Glass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twinkie's Little Sister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Veruca Salt S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Violet Beauregarde S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Andy Mann |
| Page Views: | 2,926 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Mann on Dec 11, 2011 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Billy Simek, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.
Description
An awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak. Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way. Very crimpy.
Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.
Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...
Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.
Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...
Location
Currently this is the route to the right of Cat's Demise (13b) on the far left side of the Chocolate Factory proper.
From Wobbler & Malice: Walk the cliff down into a gully and back up to a large orange wall defined by a crack leading form a huge 10 foot hueco. Follow the trail left about 100 feet and up to a large ivy grown wall with 2 clean gold streaks on the right. Bleak December is the left of the two routes. I believe the route in the streak 20 feet to the right is called "Dainty Butterfly" 12b - but I could be mistaken.
Fastest approach: You can take a left fork off the approach trail to Oompa and Loompa. Look for the uphill overgrown logging road about 40 feet after hopping over the small creek - approx 150 yards from the road. Follow a few minutes and look for the wall in the description photo up on your left (north facing).
From Wobbler & Malice: Walk the cliff down into a gully and back up to a large orange wall defined by a crack leading form a huge 10 foot hueco. Follow the trail left about 100 feet and up to a large ivy grown wall with 2 clean gold streaks on the right. Bleak December is the left of the two routes. I believe the route in the streak 20 feet to the right is called "Dainty Butterfly" 12b - but I could be mistaken.
Fastest approach: You can take a left fork off the approach trail to Oompa and Loompa. Look for the uphill overgrown logging road about 40 feet after hopping over the small creek - approx 150 yards from the road. Follow a few minutes and look for the wall in the description photo up on your left (north facing).
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