Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Blake Bowling, Steve Kauffman
Page Views: 1,958 total · 23/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 21, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


159 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Start up the low angle arete past a few holds that look like they may break. After the start enjoy a relaxing romp past a few thought provoking sections. The crux awaits at the top with various ways of getting to and clipping the anchors.

Location

Left side of the Chocolate Factory. Climbs a low angle arete. To the right is a bolted dihedral with a crack in back.

Protection

Bolts to Anchors, consider stickclipping the first bolt.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
This route is called Wonkaholic. Super fun climbing! Oct 7, 2012
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
  5.10b
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
  5.10b
Tons of people on Grandpa Joe, so warmed up here. Not my favorite. Ok movement. EGBG is a much better moderate. Nov 6, 2016
Good warmup. Techie, slabby upper section with thin feet.

Note: as of March 2017, a critical flake to be used as one of the starting holds had been marked with an 'x.' I saw plenty of people use it that day without issue. Apr 13, 2017
Rob King
New Brunswick, NJ
 
Rob King   New Brunswick, NJ
 
Has a tough move before the first clip that made my shorter friends afraid to commit. Would not have wanted to start this route without a stick clip Jul 7, 2017
Kennedy O'Donnell
McLean, VA
  5.10a
Kennedy O'Donnell   McLean, VA
  5.10a
Great route! Also great station to take pictures of Hip to the Jive :) Jul 29, 2018