Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Steve McClure, Mike Doyle, Daniel DuLac, Sonnie Trotter in 2007 on preplaced gear.|
|Page Views:||1,271 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Taylor Roy on Oct 31, 2013|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
Private Property Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.
DescriptionThis is the strikingly beautiful, left-leaning dihedral about 50 feet right of Loompa. The route basically breaks down to a 12a to a hard V6 boulder problem protected by reasonable but slightly tricky gear.
Begin below a single bolt about 10 feet left of the corner. Make long but easy face moves past the bolt and reach right into the very wide crack. Jam your torso into the crack and worm and lieback your way to some good jugs and a leg-wrap rest. The crack starts to pinch off a bit but some large angular features and the occasional fingerlock or pocket provide just enough to keep things reasonable.
About 60 feet up, the good holds disappear and the dihedral steepens. Work a wide stem and make use of the small tips crack, and some nice pockets around a blunt arete to reach a final, decent fingerlock rest. Set up on two more tips crimps and spring for a huge jug just above the anchors.