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Routes in Chocolate Factory

Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Babinski sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butane Junky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cat's Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Death by Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gene Wilder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Icebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Malice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mr. P. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old School Chocolate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oompa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfect Puzzle V3 6A
Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scarlet Scorchdropper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Theobroma S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Through the Looking Glass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Troy Davison in 2011
Page Views: 181 total, 7/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Nov 16, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Private Property Details

Description

A slightly overhanging crimp line that gets progressively harder until a very thin crux just below the anchor. Get ready to grab some footholds!

Start on the crack that heads up and right to a decent shake where the crack ends. From the rest, follow incut crimps for a few bolts then cut right to the arete for a good shake. A few more long moves on similar crimps set you up below the very thin crux. With the chains staring you in the face, and your crimp strength fading, imagine you are a dainty butterfly as you pull on nonexistent holds.

This is a great technical route on excellent rock. Get on it!

Location

Right of Bleak December.

Protection

Bolts and two bolt anchor.

Photos

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