Elevation: 1,014 ft
GPS: 37.649, -83.713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 106,444 total · 811/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 13, 2008 with improvements by MilesC and 1 other
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike
Today
88°F - 66°F 31°C - 19°C
Sat
88°F - 64°F 31°C - 18°C
Sun
87°F - 65°F 31°C - 18°C
Memorial Day
88°F - 66°F 31°C - 19°C
Tue
90°F - 67°F 32°C - 19°C
Wed
90°F - 63°F 32°C - 17°C
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This recently developed cliff is now the largest cliff at the RRG. Hiding in the holler next to the Motherlode, development began in 2007 with more routes being added each year. Currently (January 2017) there are 105 routes with 84 sport lines and 21 trad lines. Most of the sport lines are 5.10 and harder, with two of the hardest lines the Red has to at 5.14c, the Golden Ticket & Pure Imagination. There are even some futuristic projects on this sector equipped by Adam Ondra. To the far right side of the crag, it even has it's own cold weather cave where you get winter time sun for most of the day.

Due to the immense size of this wall, sun or shade can be found at any time of the day. However generally the wall faces south, making it a better cold weather destination.

Getting There

Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first trail on the right (Unmarked as of 9/20/16). This right turn is about five minutes from the Motherlode Parking area.

This massive wall, has about 8 different sub-trails leading to the different cliff sectors. Generally speaking, take the left forks to access the left side of the wall. There is an old logging road you will see shortly after starting hiking that will take you to the leftmost routes. For the far right side (Death by Chocolate, or Swedish Fish) keep making right turns, you will make about 6 of them to get to the wall.

Waiver and Rules

The Motherlode LLC and the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at Chocolate Factory complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement AND this Chocolate Factory-specific waiver before climbing at the Chocolate Factory.

Rules
Motherlode LLC is private property. Access to the clifflines under the driplines at the Motherlode,Chocolate Factory,Right cliffline of Sore heel and left side of Bears den climbing areas is dependent on users cooperation with the rules. If you are not willing or able to abide by these rules then do not enter the property. Authorized users are asked to help uphold the rules.

  • Access to these cliffline properties is limited to those individuals with a completed current liability waiver.
  • Anyone who doesn't complete a signed waiver is criminal trespassing in accordance with KRS 511.080 and subject to prosecution.
  • “Leave No Trace” principles must be followed at all times while in the preserve.
  • Pack it in – Pack it out, including your poo, no Catholes (www.lnt.org will show you how to do it).
  • No flora, fauna, rock or anything else may be damaged, harmed, moved or removed from the preserve.
  • No guiding or any commercial activity is permitted without expressed written consent from members of Motherlode LLC
  • Camping or hammock hanging is not permitted within the cliffline areas.
  • Access to the preserve is from dawn to dusk only.
  • Be considerate and respectful of those around you.No music or excessive noise.
  • No illegal drugs or alcoholic beverages are allowed within this property.
  • No fires, burning, or smoking of anything is allowed within the preserve.

69 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Chocolate Factory Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Chocolate Factory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 123
Augustus Gloop
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 115
Chocolate River
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 128
Grandpa Joe
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 100
Sugar Rush
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 177
Wonkaholic
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 77
Throbbing Emotions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 172
EGBG
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 365
Oompa
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 149
Robotic Thumb
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 308
Loompa
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 145
The Glass Elevator
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 110
Hip to the Jive
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 102
Snozzberries
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 64
J Rat's Back
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 64
Swedish Fish
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Augustus Gloop
 123
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Chocolate River
 115
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Grandpa Joe
 128
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sugar Rush
 100
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Wonkaholic
 177
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Throbbing Emotions
 77
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
EGBG
 172
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Oompa
 365
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Robotic Thumb
 149
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Loompa
 308
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Glass Elevator
 145
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hip to the Jive
 110
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Snozzberries
 102
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
J Rat's Back
 64
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Swedish Fish
 64
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chocolate Factory »

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