Elevation: 1,014 ft
GPS: 37.649, -83.713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,531 total · 711/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 13, 2008 with updates from MilesC and 1 other
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike
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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This recently developed cliff is now the largest cliff at the RRG. Hiding in the holler next to the Motherlode, development began in 2007 with more routes being added each year. Currently (January 2017) there are 105 routes with 84 sport lines and 21 trad lines. Most of the sport lines are 5.10 and harder, with two of the hardest lines the Red has to at 5.14c, the Golden Ticket & Pure Imagination. There are even some futuristic projects on this sector equipped by Adam Ondra. To the far right side of the crag, it even has it's own cold weather cave where you get winter time sun for most of the day.

Due to the immense size of this wall, sun or shade can be found at any time of the day. However generally the wall faces south, making it a better cold weather destination.

Getting There

Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first trail on the right (Unmarked as of 9/20/16). This right turn is about five minutes from the Motherlode Parking area.

This massive wall, has about 8 different sub-trails leading to the different cliff sectors. Generally speaking, take the left forks to access the left side of the wall. There is an old logging road you will see shortly after starting hiking that will take you to the leftmost routes. For the far right side (Death by Chocolate, or Swedish Fish) keep making right turns, you will make about 6 of them to get to the wall.

Waiver and Rules

The Motherlode LLC and the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at Chocolate Factory complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement AND this Chocolate Factory-specific waiver before climbing at the Chocolate Factory.

Rules
Motherlode LLC is private property. Access to the clifflines under the driplines at the Motherlode,Chocolate Factory,Right cliffline of Sore heel and left side of Bears den climbing areas is dependent on users cooperation with the rules. If you are not willing or able to abide by these rules then do not enter the property. Authorized users are asked to help uphold the rules.

  • Access to these cliffline properties is limited to those individuals with a completed current liability waiver.
  • Anyone who doesn't complete a signed waiver is criminal trespassing in accordance with KRS 511.080 and subject to prosecution.
  • “Leave No Trace” principles must be followed at all times while in the preserve.
  • Pack it in – Pack it out, including your poo, no Catholes (www.lnt.org will show you how to do it).
  • No flora, fauna, rock or anything else may be damaged, harmed, moved or removed from the preserve.
  • No guiding or any commercial activity is permitted without expressed written consent from members of Motherlode LLC
  • Camping or hammock hanging is not permitted within the cliffline areas.
  • Access to the preserve is from dawn to dusk only.
  • Be considerate and respectful of those around you.No music or excessive noise.
  • No illegal drugs or alcoholic beverages are allowed within this property.
  • No fires, burning, or smoking of anything is allowed within the preserve.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chocolate Factory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 116
Augustus Gloop
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 106
Chocolate River
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 110
Grandpa Joe
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 97
Sugar Rush
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 159
Wonkaholic
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 145
EGBG
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 337
Oompa
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 136
Robotic Thumb
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 287
Loompa
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 136
The Glass Elevator
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 98
Hip to the Jive
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 49
Enkidu
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 89
Snozzberries
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 59
J Rat's Back
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 57
Swedish Fish
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Augustus Gloop
 116
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Chocolate River
 106
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Grandpa Joe
 110
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sugar Rush
 97
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Wonkaholic
 159
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
EGBG
 145
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Oompa
 337
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Robotic Thumb
 136
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Loompa
 287
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Glass Elevator
 136
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hip to the Jive
 98
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Enkidu
 49
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Snozzberries
 89
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
J Rat's Back
 59
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Swedish Fish
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chocolate Factory »

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Adam Taylor just sent "The Golden Ticket", perhaps the hardest route at the Red at 14c or d. Here are his comments posted at Redriverclimbing.com

"As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren't pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.
As for the grade, I do not know... It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating. " Oct 23, 2009