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Chocolate Factory Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Chocolate Factory

L › R R › L A › Z

	A(nother) B(lake) R(oute) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	A.L.F. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Atomic Fireballs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Babinski Sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Bathed in Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Big Friendly Giant, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bittersweet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Butane Junky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Butterface S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Candy Man, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Cats' Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Chocolate Myotis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chocolatier S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chonky Chocolate S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Chonky Chocolate (Direct start) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Cookie Monster S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Crimp My Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Death by Chocolate S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Dew Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Divine Punishment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	End of Innocence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Fatface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gene Wilder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Giant Peach, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Golden chocobo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Golden Ticket, The S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
	Grandma Josephine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hookah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Icebreaker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Keepin' It Real S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kentucky Grape Vine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	King of the Rhodo T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Leche del Toro S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Like Water for Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Limbic System S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Loompa S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Loverface S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Malice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Meh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Mr. P. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Naked S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Nasal Nuggets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nutter Butter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Old School Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Oompa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Open Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Peaches and Cream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Perfect Puzzle V2 5+
	Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
	Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scarlet Scorchdropper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Shootin' Hot Hugs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Silky Smooth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Spinal Tap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Stalker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Storm Gutter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tapita Gallito S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Theobroma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Three Stooges S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Through the Looking Glass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Toxicondendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Twinkie's Little Sister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Veruca Salt S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Violet Beauregarde S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	1,014 ft	309 m
GPS:	37.64919, -83.71343 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	279,894 total · 1,385/month
Shared By:	Shirtless Mike on Aug 13, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.

Description

This recently developed cliff is now the largest cliff at the RRG. Hiding in the holler next to the Motherlode, development began in 2007 with more routes being added each year. Currently (January 2017) there are 105 routes with 84 sport lines and 21 trad lines. Most of the sport lines are 5.10 and harder, with two of the hardest lines the Red has to at 5.14c, the Golden Ticket & Pure Imagination. There are even some futuristic projects on this sector equipped by Adam Ondra. To the far right side of the crag, it even has it's own cold weather cave where you get winter time sun for most of the day.

Due to the immense size of this wall, sun or shade can be found at any time of the day. However generally the wall faces south, making it a better cold weather destination.

Getting There

Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first trail on the right. This right turn is about five minutes from the Motherlode Parking area and is marked with signage.

This massive wall, has about 8 different sub-trails leading to the different cliff sectors. Generally speaking, take the left forks to access the left side of the wall. There is an old logging road you'll see shortly after starting hiking that will take you to the leftmost routes. For the far right side (Death by Chocolate, or Swedish Fish) keep making right turns, you'll make about 6 of them to get to the wall.

Waiver and Rules

The Motherlode LLC and the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at Chocolate Factory complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement

Rules

Motherlode LLC is private property. Access to the clifflines under the driplines at the Motherlode,Chocolate Factory,Right cliffline of Sore heel and left side of Bears den climbing areas is dependent on users cooperation with the rules. If you are not willing or able to abide by these rules then do not enter the property. Authorized users are asked to help uphold the rules.

* Access to these cliffline properties is limited to those individuals with a completed current liability waiver.

* Anyone who doesn't complete a signed waiver is criminal trespassing in accordance with KRS 511.080 and subject to prosecution.

* “Leave No Trace” principles must be followed at all times while in the preserve.

* Pack it in – Pack it out, including your poo, no Catholes (www.lnt.org will show you how to do it).

* No flora, fauna, rock or anything else may be damaged, harmed, moved or removed from the preserve.

* No guiding or any commercial activity is permitted without expressed written consent from members of Motherlode LLC

* Camping or hammock hanging is not permitted within the cliffline areas.

* Access to the preserve is from dawn to dusk only.

* Be considerate and respectful of those around you.No music or excessive noise.

* No illegal drugs or alcoholic beverages are allowed within this property.

* No fires, burning, or smoking of anything is allowed within the preserve.

104 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chocolate Factory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 697 ● EGBG Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 740 ● Oompa Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 416 ● Robotic Thumb Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 613 ● Loompa Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 353 ● Hip to the Jive Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 136 ● Toxicondendron Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 157 ● Enkidu Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 380 ● Snozzberries Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 158 ● J Rat's Back Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 252 ● Swedish Fish Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 54 ● Gene Wilder Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 22 ● Cats' Demise Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a 15 ● Eternal Fire Sport
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b 9 ● Pure Imagination Sport
5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b 4 ● The Golden Ticket Sport