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Routes in Chocolate Factory

Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Babinski sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butane Junky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cat's Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Death by Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gene Wilder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Icebreaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Malice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mr. P. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old School Chocolate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oompa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfect Puzzle V3 6A
Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scarlet Scorchdropper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Theobroma S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Through the Looking Glass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kenny Barker, Julie Smith, 2008
Page Views: 4,115 total, 45/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on May 31, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Private Property Details

Description

Very nice climb, stays dry in a light rain. Start by climbing up on a flake. Continue up following pockets and plates to the top. Crux is at the point where the route starts to turn less steep, it's somewhat sequential.

Location

The middle line of 3 sport routes located just before reaching Charlie and the Golden Ticket area.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Rob King
New Brunswick, NJ
  5.10b
Rob King   New Brunswick, NJ
  5.10b
First or second move is a little tough if you're shorter. Amazing holds all the way to the top with some AMAZING sequences using a massive hueco for an undercling. Pretty pumpy. It was raining on us when we did this and it stayed dry. Jul 7, 2017
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
  5.10b/c
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
  5.10b/c
Definitely hard and pumpy for 10a. Be ready to crimp on an overhang. Nov 6, 2016
Samuel Roberts
  5.10a
Samuel Roberts  
  5.10a
The very best route in the red for ista grade Apr 22, 2013