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Areas in Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP)

Bear's Den, The 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Chocolate Factory 9 / 57 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 67
Motherlode, The 2 / 59 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 61
Unlode, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

In January 2017 the RRGCC purchased 102 acres guaranteeing access to some of the best and most famous areas that the RRG has to offer. The Motherlode, the Chocolate Factory, The Bear's Den and the Unlode. Climbing began at the Motherlode over 25 years ago, and has some of the steepest and hardest lines the Red has to offer. The purchase of this area secured access to 226 routes, ranging from 5.2 to 5.14c.

Working with the Access Fund the RRGCC purchased the approach to the cliffs for $235,000. However a substantial sum on the mortgage is still owed, so consider donating today. For more information or to donate see: rrgcc.networkforgood.com/pr…

Getting There

To get to the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve from Miguel's, travel south on KY 11 south of Torrent Falls. Turn right on to 498, and after about a mile turn right onto Bald Fork Road. Park only in designated parking areas and steer clear of all oil production equipment. Parking can be an issue at the top of the hill, so carpool if possible, and be sure not to block the roadway.

To get to the BRRP from Lago Linda's, turn right onto 399, turn right onto 52. From highway 52 turn left onto 498. After about 1 mile turn left onto Bald Fork Road.

Please slow down when driving past homes on Bald Rock Fork Road (aka the road that leads from 498 to the BRRP/PMRP). The speed limit on this road is 10 mph and driving too quickly creates dust which negatively affects the residents along the road.

NOTE: Access to many crags in the BRRP/PMRP may be problematical without a high-clearance vehicle. In the fall of 2016, the hill down to the bottom was difficult without four wheel drive and good clearance.

Waiver and Rules

The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at BRRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at BRRP.

  • Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil 
workers’ trucks.
  • Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” 
practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
  • All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
  • Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project 
ropes, draws, or other gear.
  • Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to  the establishment of any new crags or trails.
  • No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is 
permitted.
  • No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is 
permitted.
  • No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in 
the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of 
numerous oil wells would pose.
  • Overnight camping (no long­term camping) is permitted as long 
as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil 
equipment. 

146 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 103
Chocolate River
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 113
Augustus Gloop
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 95
Grandpa Joe
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 95
Sugar Rush
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 324
Oompa
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 149
Wonkaholic
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 131
EGBG
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 127
Robotic Thumb
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 273
Loompa
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 132
The Glass Elevator
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 92
Hip to the Jive
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 77
Snozzberries
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 84
Chainsaw Massacre
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 54
Swedish Fish
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 57
Ale-8-One
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chocolate River Chocolate Factory
 103
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Augustus Gloop Chocolate Factory
 113
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Grandpa Joe Chocolate Factory
 95
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sugar Rush Chocolate Factory
 95
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Oompa Chocolate Factory
 324
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Wonkaholic Chocolate Factory
 149
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
EGBG Chocolate Factory
 131
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Robotic Thumb Chocolate Factory
 127
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Loompa Chocolate Factory
 273
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Glass Elevator Chocolate Factory
 132
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hip to the Jive Chocolate Factory
 92
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Snozzberries Chocolate Factory
 77
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chainsaw Massacre Motherlode > Undertow Wall
 84
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Swedish Fish Chocolate Factory
 54
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ale-8-One Motherlode > Undertow Wall
 57
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) »

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