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Elevation: 903 ft 275 m
GPS: 37.64473, -83.71387
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Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 11, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

Description Suggest change

In January 2017 the RRGCC purchased 102 acres guaranteeing access to some of the best and most famous areas that the RRG has to offer. The Motherlode, the Chocolate Factory, The Bear's Den and the Unlode. Climbing began at the Motherlode over 25 years ago, and has some of the steepest and hardest lines the Red has to offer. In 2011, the Ventura Family (owners of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and now the RRGCC’s purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that these iconic crags are climber-owned. The purchase of this area secured access to 226 routes, ranging from 5.2 to 5.14c.

Getting There Suggest change

To get to the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve from Miguel's, travel south on KY 11 south of Torrent Falls. Turn right on to 498, and after about a mile turn right onto Bald Fork Road. Park only in designated parking areas and steer clear of all oil production equipment. Parking can be an issue at the top of the hill, so carpool if possible, and be sure not to block the roadway.

To get to the BRRP from Lago Linda's, turn right onto 399, turn right onto 52. From highway 52 turn left onto 498. After about 1 mile turn left onto Bald Fork Road.

Please slow down when driving past homes on Bald Rock Fork Road (aka the road that leads from 498 to the BRRP/PMRP). The speed limit on this road is 10 mph and driving too quickly creates dust which negatively affects the residents along the road.

NOTE: Access to many crags in the BRRP/PMRP may be problematical without a high-clearance vehicle. The 'Lode hill' down into the valley is difficult to get up and down without four wheel drive and good clearance.

Waiver and Rules

Suggest change
The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at BRRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at BRRP.

* As of June 2018, there is no overnight parking allowed on any Coalition properties (PMRP, BRRP, MFRP). Primitive camping is still allowed,
  just as long as you do not park a car there (i.e. dropped off or hike in).
* Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil workers’ trucks.
* Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
* All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
* Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
* Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
* No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is permitted.
* No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
* No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of
  numerous oil wells would pose.

374 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 195
Hazel Dormouse
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 600
EGBG
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 366
Robotic Thumb
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 570
Loompa
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 318
Hip to the Jive
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 138
Enkidu
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 332
Snozzberries
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 138
J Rat's Back
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 215
Swedish Fish
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 153
Ale-8-One
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 98
Stain
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 65
Resurrection
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 73
Tuna Town
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 65
Convicted
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 74
Snooker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hazel Dormouse Hazel Hollow
 195
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
EGBG Chocolate Factory
 600
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Robotic Thumb Chocolate Factory
 366
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Loompa Chocolate Factory
 570
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Hip to the Jive Chocolate Factory
 318
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Enkidu Chocolate Factory
 138
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Snozzberries Chocolate Factory
 332
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
J Rat's Back Chocolate Factory
 138
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Swedish Fish Chocolate Factory
 215
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ale-8-One Motherlode > (5) Undertow Wall
 153
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Stain Motherlode > (1) Buckeye Buttress
 98
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Resurrection Motherlode > (5) Undertow Wall
 65
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tuna Town Motherlode > (5) Undertow Wall
 73
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Convicted Motherlode > (5) Undertow Wall
 65
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Snooker Motherlode > (3) GMC Wall
 74
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) »

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