Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,618 total · 47/month
Shared By: dallas.milburn on Mar 31, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

An awesome Red River Gorge classic, it follows a long steep line a ways left of Ale-8-One and Chainsaw. Good hold the whole way up, endurance is key! Make sure to take the 60ft whipper off the top, a classic gorge tradition. Or even better yet, try doing as many pull ups as you can after sending, THEN take the whipper.

Location

Motherload classic, to the right of the madness cave, and left of Ale8One and Chainsaw

Protection

Fixed petzl draws the whole way up.
Fixed anchors as well.

Photos

yevquest
Southeast,US
yevquest   Southeast,US
Trying to be more descriptive with the location. After walking right from the madness cave, this is the 3rd route encountered. Easily identified by the two very long slings on the last and next to last bolts. Apr 28, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Starts up a short arete past the second bolt. Oct 19, 2009
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This climb is a mega classic. Despite seeing alot of traffic on this route, I saw very few people send the thing on my recent trip to the Gorge. I mananged to make it a little past the last bolt but couldnt find the juice to finsih the exciting and runout crux finsish. I tried this route about 8 times over a week, this is steep jug hauling at its best. And unless your crazy strong and have mad endurance, you will probably take the MASSIVE whip at the top just trying to hold on. Great fun and if your climbing at this grade, this is a must do Red River Gorge Classic!!!!

P.S.- From the last long chain draw to the anchors is quite runout and probably one of the biggest falls you will ever take. It is completely safe and you will never even hit the wall. I don't know if it's 60 feet, but I would say a solid 30-40' if you take the whip like most people do on the small crimps right before the chains. HUGE FALL and HUGE FUN. Do It!!!! Apr 20, 2011