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Elevation: 993 ft 303 m
GPS: 37.64235, -83.71178
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,338 total · 61/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 17, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek
Warning Access Issue: Recently Purchased in 2017 by the RRGCC. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This crag has seen a surge of development in the last several years and has quickly become one of the most popular moderate walls in the area.  It may get pretty crowded on a nice fall weekend but the sheer amount of climbs at this wall should guarantee you'll be able to find an open route.  A once neglected crag with only a handful of routes has now become a destination for first timers, those seeking some nice mellow jug pulling on a pseudo rest day, or an intro to the overhung jug climbing the gorge is famous for.  

The RRGCC trail crews have done extensive base work here and are to thank for the many terraced belay bases and well groomed trails.

The area gets afternoon shade.

Getting There Suggest change

From the parking at The Motherlode, head back up the hill you drove down to get to the parking area. Walk up the road for a couple minutes and keep a sharp eye out for a very overgrown old road on the left. If you end up questioning yourself, "is this really an old road?", you've found it. Bushwack along this road for less than a minute to where it appears to peter out. Keep going. (You did remember to wear pants, right?) Traverse along the now very faint old road to cross a bit of a drainage. Look for a cairn shortly thereafter and head uphill for a minute or so. Keep looking to your right and you'll see the wall. Beat a path straight uphill to the wall and you'll be at the base of the two 5.11 routes.
Total approach time from the parking at The Motherlode is approximately 7 minutes.

Potential

Suggest change

There is quite a bit more potential for routes in this area if you're feeling saucy. Some lines will require some vine clearing but would clean up nicely I believe. The wall is pretty much directly below the road you drive in on.

29 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Unlode Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Unlode

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Underdog
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 57
Undercover Overachiever
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Uncharted Moss and Choss
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Underclinging Undertaker
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Unearthed Mycelia
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 71
Unrealistic Dump Truck
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 51
Undeterred
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Unconditional
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
Undoubtedly, Still Better than Trad
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Underestimated
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Undetermined
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 67
Untoward
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 45
Unbridled
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Untenable
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
Undermined
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Underdog
 66
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Undercover Overachiever
 57
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Uncharted Moss and Choss
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Underclinging Undertaker
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Unearthed Mycelia
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Unrealistic Dump Truck
 71
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Undeterred
 51
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Unconditional
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Undoubtedly, Still Better t…
 45
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Underestimated
 46
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Undetermined
 43
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Untoward
 67
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unbridled
 45
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Untenable
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Undermined
 41
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Unlode »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: East
Sunny Roughly 8am to 12pm during high season
6am
8pm

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