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Elevation: 1,062 ft 324 m
GPS: 37.64654, -83.70999
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 18, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek
Warning Access Issue: Private Property DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Boasting the highest concentration of the steepest and longest routes at the Red, this is where the hard climbers spend the majority of their time. The Motherlode has 30+ 5.12s, ~15 5.13s and a smattering of 5.14s. There are a number of 5.11s in the area but to really appreciate the Motherlode, show up fit and be ready to sink your teeth into 5.12 or harder.

The area is broken up into five sectors, from left to right:
  • (1) Buckeye Buttress - Slightly overhaning, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
  • (2) Warm-Up Wall - Slightly overhanging, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
  • (3) GMC Wall - Getting closer to the Madness Cave and getting steeper. Morning to midday sun.
  • (4) Madness Cave - Super steep, overhanging climbing. Afternoon sun.
  • (5) Undertow Wall - Steep, overhanging climbing. Evening sun.

Getting There Suggest change

Following the driving directions for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP). Once you get to the bottom of the hill on Bald Mtn Rd there will be a large dirt/mud parking lot on you right. Park there and take any of the trails.

Waiver and Rules

Suggest change
The Motherlode LLC and the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at the Motherlode complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement AND this Motherlode-specific waiver before climbing at the Motherlode.

Rules
The Motherlode LLC is private property. Access to the clifflines under the driplines at the Motherlode,Chocolate Factory,Right cliffline of Sore heel and left side of Bears den climbing areas is dependent on users cooperation with the rules. If you are not willing or able to abide by these rules then do not enter the property. Authorized users are asked to help uphold the rules.

  • Access to these cliffline properties is limited to those individuals with a completed current liability waiver.
  • Anyone who doesn't complete a signed waiver is criminal trespassing in accordance with KRS 511.080 and subject to prosecution.
  • “Leave No Trace” principles must be followed at all times while in the preserve.
  • Pack it in – Pack it out, including your poo, no Catholes (www.lnt.org will show you how to do it).
  • No flora, fauna, rock or anything else may be damaged, harmed, moved or removed from the preserve.
  • No guiding or any commercial activity is permitted without expressed written consent from members of Motherlode LLC
  • Camping or hammock hanging is not permitted within the cliffline areas.
  • Access to the preserve is from dawn to dusk only.
  • Be considerate and respectful of those around you.No music or excessive noise.
  • No illegal drugs or alcoholic beverages are allowed within this property.
  • No fires, burning, or smoking of anything is allowed within the preserve.

68 Total Climbs

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Location: The Motherlode Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Motherlode

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 77
Buff the Wood
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 77
Rocket Dog
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 154
Ale-8-One
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 37
Swahili Slang
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 98
Stain
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 61
Heart Shaped Box
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 65
Resurrection
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 73
Tuna Town
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 44
8 Ball
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 37
Team Wilson
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 47
Forty Ounces of Justice
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 65
Convicted
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 74
Snooker
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 26
BOHICA
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 34
Flour Power
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Buff the Wood (1) Buckeye Buttress
 77
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Rocket Dog (5) Undertow Wall
 77
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Ale-8-One (5) Undertow Wall
 154
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Swahili Slang (2) Warm-Up Wall
 37
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Stain (1) Buckeye Buttress
 98
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Heart Shaped Box (1) Buckeye Buttress
 61
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Resurrection (5) Undertow Wall
 65
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tuna Town (5) Undertow Wall
 73
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
8 Ball (3) GMC Wall
 44
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Team Wilson (5) Undertow Wall
 37
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Forty Ounces of Justice (4) Madness Cave
 47
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Convicted (5) Undertow Wall
 65
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Snooker (3) GMC Wall
 74
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
BOHICA (4) Madness Cave
 26
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Flour Power (4) Madness Cave
 34
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Motherlode »

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