The Motherlode Rock Climbing
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 1,062 ft | 324 m |
GPS: |
37.64654, -83.70999 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
Page Views: | 257,791 total · 1,266/month | |
Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Mar 18, 2008 · Updates | |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
Boasting the highest concentration of the steepest and longest routes at the Red, this is where the hard climbers spend the majority of their time. The Motherlode has 30+ 5.12s, ~15 5.13s and a smattering of 5.14s. There are a number of 5.11s in the area but to really appreciate the Motherlode, show up fit and be ready to sink your teeth into 5.12 or harder.
The area is broken up into five sectors, from left to right:
The area is broken up into five sectors, from left to right:
- (1) Buckeye Buttress - Slightly overhaning, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- (2) Warm-Up Wall - Slightly overhanging, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- (3) GMC Wall - Getting closer to the Madness Cave and getting steeper. Morning to midday sun.
- (4) Madness Cave - Super steep, overhanging climbing. Afternoon sun.
- (5) Undertow Wall - Steep, overhanging climbing. Evening sun.
Getting There
Following the driving directions for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP). Once you get to the bottom of the hill on Bald Mtn Rd there will be a large dirt/mud parking lot on you right. Park there and take any of the trails.
Waiver and Rules
The Motherlode LLC and the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at the Motherlode complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement AND this Motherlode-specific waiver before climbing at the Motherlode.
Rules
The Motherlode LLC is private property. Access to the clifflines under the driplines at the Motherlode,Chocolate Factory,Right cliffline of Sore heel and left side of Bears den climbing areas is dependent on users cooperation with the rules. If you are not willing or able to abide by these rules then do not enter the property. Authorized users are asked to help uphold the rules.
Rules
The Motherlode LLC is private property. Access to the clifflines under the driplines at the Motherlode,Chocolate Factory,Right cliffline of Sore heel and left side of Bears den climbing areas is dependent on users cooperation with the rules. If you are not willing or able to abide by these rules then do not enter the property. Authorized users are asked to help uphold the rules.
- Access to these cliffline properties is limited to those individuals with a completed current liability waiver.
- Anyone who doesn't complete a signed waiver is criminal trespassing in accordance with KRS 511.080 and subject to prosecution.
- “Leave No Trace” principles must be followed at all times while in the preserve.
- Pack it in – Pack it out, including your poo, no Catholes (www.lnt.org will show you how to do it).
- No flora, fauna, rock or anything else may be damaged, harmed, moved or removed from the preserve.
- No guiding or any commercial activity is permitted without expressed written consent from members of Motherlode LLC
- Camping or hammock hanging is not permitted within the cliffline areas.
- Access to the preserve is from dawn to dusk only.
- Be considerate and respectful of those around you.No music or excessive noise.
- No illegal drugs or alcoholic beverages are allowed within this property.
- No fires, burning, or smoking of anything is allowed within the preserve.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Motherlode
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within The Motherlode
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About The Motherlode
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (6)
0 Comments