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Routes in Buckeye Buttress

Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Moll, 1994
Page Views: 1,791 total, 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Private Property Details

Description

Looking for something a little different? This route will test your balance & footwork more than your fitness. The technical prow requires patience and focus, not the typical bulging forearms found elsewhere along these cliffs. For this reason, this route is a poor warmup (except maybe for other weirdness like Swahili Slang) but it can offer some entertainment after The Undertow Wall has worked you over.

Begin with easy stemming up the dirty, mossy gulley. Move left onto the prow, and work between the horizontal breaks with long reaches and highsteps. Look left for the occasional sharp, incut edge. The right side of the arete will provide sloping sidepulls at a few key moments. The sustained nature of the climbing will keep you on your toes, and the stingy bolting will keep you focused.

Location

The next route right of "Heart-Shaped Box", on the far left end of The Motherlode. The route climbs a low-angle, blunt prow at the point where the left-side approach trail first meets the cliff.

Protection

~5 Bolts, 2BA

Photos

agreed - you can start and go straight up the arete. No need to stem anything :) Sep 5, 2017
shoo
 
shoo  
 
Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business. May 5, 2011