Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Moll, 1994
Page Views: 1,992 total · 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Looking for something a little different? This route will test your balance & footwork more than your fitness. The technical prow requires patience and focus, not the typical bulging forearms found elsewhere along these cliffs. For this reason, this route is a poor warmup (except maybe for other weirdness like Swahili Slang) but it can offer some entertainment after The Undertow Wall has worked you over.

Begin with easy stemming up the dirty, mossy gulley. Move left onto the prow, and work between the horizontal breaks with long reaches and highsteps. Look left for the occasional sharp, incut edge. The right side of the arete will provide sloping sidepulls at a few key moments. The sustained nature of the climbing will keep you on your toes, and the stingy bolting will keep you focused.

Location

The next route right of "Heart-Shaped Box", on the far left end of The Motherlode. The route climbs a low-angle, blunt prow at the point where the left-side approach trail first meets the cliff.

Protection

~5 Bolts, 2BA

Photos

shoo
 
shoo  
 
Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business. May 5, 2011
agreed - you can start and go straight up the arete. No need to stem anything :) Sep 5, 2017