Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Madness Cave

BOHICA S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Flour Power S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Forty Ounces of Justice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Madness, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Omaha Beach S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pushing Up Daisies S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Transworld Depravity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,027 total · 74/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 29, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Pull on some perpetually damp holds to get started. Then continue up steep jugs to a great rest on a shelf, try not to fall asleep. After you've recovered or get bored, which ever comes first, head up into the steep wall above. There is an early crux involving a long move off of a crimp. Better holds continue out the overhang to a good rest on another shelf. Another hard section off of the shelf leads to finger buckets up the final headwall.

This route has harder moves but better rests than BOHICA. Better than the guide book makes it out to be.

Location

The furthest right route in the Madness Cave. Starts off of a stack of rocks on a damp jug that points left.

Protection

Bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
I lowered off of this with a 70m rope that had had both ends cut and was about 65 meters. I had plenty of rope left. I was told that you could lower with a 60m if you are careful, tie a knot in the end and be ready to have someone toss the climber a rope if they don't make it to the ground. Oct 29, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
60m is fine. I think this route is way under-rated. Perhaps not as good as the other Madness Cave rtes, but IMO this is the best 13a at the Lode* (*I haven't done Snooker, done all the others). Nov 29, 2010
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Very good route, I think better than the beloved BOHICA even. For one thing, it goes to the top of the wall, which BOHICA does not, and it has a much longer run through the steepest part of the cave. In fact, this has to be one of the coolest 13a's anywhere.

Furthermore, the original beta was to stick clip the first bolt and winch past the wet rock, so if this route is being docked quality points because of wet rock, the criticism is misplaced. Mar 21, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
If you're supposed to winch start then it does not start at the bottom of the wall so saying that it goes to the top makes it better than BOHICA just does not make sense. Though for me really it is the amount of glue on the route that detracts, don't get me wrong it is still a great route though and I would do it again. May 10, 2011

More About Forty Ounces of Justice

Printer-Friendly