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Routes in (4) Madness Cave
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BOHICA S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Buck Eye S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Flour Power S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Forty Ounces of Justice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Madness, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Omaha Beach S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Pushing Up Daisies S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Transworld Depravity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Chris Martin - 1997 |
| Page Views: | 6,637 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | yevquest on Nov 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
Flour Power is one of the two classic 13bs (BOHICA being the other one) that climb partway out the super steep Madness Cave. A slightly odd start (make sure your belayer is paying attention, a fall could lead to a swing into a boulder) leads to sweet, steep jug climbing There are some slopers here and there but overall nothing is too bad. This leads to a nice sit down rest at the base of the big roof. If the route ended here it would be a 5 star 12a but there's still so much to go.
Once recovered, launch out the 40 degree roof on a variety of holds, heavy on open handed mini jugs. None of the clips are too bad but there are some smaller holds in between them. The goal of this section is to get through 40 feet of continuous climbing to a fantastic rest on jugs and hand jams. From the rest a cool bouldery section leads right and up, passing the last bolt (many people skip) to the anchor clipping jug.
Once recovered, launch out the 40 degree roof on a variety of holds, heavy on open handed mini jugs. None of the clips are too bad but there are some smaller holds in between them. The goal of this section is to get through 40 feet of continuous climbing to a fantastic rest on jugs and hand jams. From the rest a cool bouldery section leads right and up, passing the last bolt (many people skip) to the anchor clipping jug.
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